Protecting Rockers and Corners?

[elks]

So my truck is in need of new rockers, and cab corners. I am not sure if I want to tackle this myself or have a professional tackle it. My concern is even after I get the old rust out, how can I prevent new rust from forming?

Any tips or tricks to prevent the issue from being an issue when my grand son gets his grandpas old truck?

[Khyron]

Im fairly amateur and I was able to do it, cab corners are cheap so if your unsure of yourself grab 2 of each :-) With the rockers, I use self tapping screws to hold into place then test the door, remember when you remove the rockers the door jam will move, you can cross brace as well, im sure thats what the pro's do ;-)

When done, you can use a stone guard, it's a clear spray that will leave a slight texture look, but will protect them, make sure to inspect your inner rockers as well, you may want to just do both while your there.

When all's done and said, Im actually thinking of using spray foam inside to keep the moisture out :-)

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by Khyron

Im fairly amateur and I was able to do it, cab corners are cheap so if your unsure of yourself grab 2 of each :-) With the rockers, I use self tapping screws to hold into place then test the door, remember when you remove the rockers the door jam will move, you can cross brace as well, im sure thats what the pro's do ;-)

When done, you can use a stone guard, it's a clear spray that will leave a slight texture look, but will protect them, make sure to inspect your inner rockers as well, you may want to just do both while your there.

When all's done and said, Im actually thinking of using spray foam inside to keep the moisture out :-)

The door jamb won't move. I had a 6" of the floor cut out on both sides and the inner rocker and kick panel, along with the rear cab corner as well. Also removed the front lower A pillar... and the door jamb didn't move at all. I didn't weld in any temporary bracing or anything. You can also adjust the rear a tad if you need to as the rear lower C pillar is bolted to the inner rocker panel and has a bit of adjustment. Before you cut the cab corner out or the floor in that area. Take a measurement from the back of the cab to the edge of the C illar. Then you can line that back up if it moves. If it does move, it will be about 1/8", which is easy to adjust.

I used "Rust Mort" spray on all of the exposed rusted parts before doing any welding or primer. It turns rust to iron oxide. Worked really well. I wouldn't use any kind of spray foam as it will hold moisture at the metal.

Here is a couple pics of my floor cut out and everything lined back up just fine...

Gary

[B. W.]

X2 on Rust Mort. Also, the rockers rust from the inside out. in the front there are inspection plugs (plastic 1" plugs) after installing the new rockers, spray the inside through these holes with cavity wax (body schutz, sp?) This applies a protective coating that will prevent rusting.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Khyron

Im fairly amateur and I was able to do it, cab corners are cheap so if your unsure of yourself grab 2 of each :-) With the rockers, I use self tapping screws to hold into place then test the door, remember when you remove the rockers the door jam will move, you can cross brace as well, im sure thats what the pro's do ;-)

When done, you can use a stone guard, it's a clear spray that will leave a slight texture look, but will protect them, make sure to inspect your inner rockers as well, you may want to just do both while your there.

When all's done and said, Im actually thinking of using spray foam inside to keep the moisture out :-)

I recommend against using spray foam to fill voids for several reasons. First off is that spray foam can distort your panels when it expands, leaving you with a difficult repair. Second is that the expansion rates of the foam and the sheet metal are different, so over time the foam will break loose from the metal and then it will trap moisture against the metal. And lastly if you do ever have to do a dent repair it will be much more difficult. There are lots of products out there that do a much better job. On clean steel I like Fluid Film as it is easy to apply and nontoxic.

[Khyron]

ahh good to know, as i said, i prefaced my res ponce with im an amateur lol

when i got my truck it had the outter rocker and cab corner rivited on .. when i removed it I had this to look at, needless to say, the door did not close when i removed them, I used a come along and the set tapping screws to her it to hold together correctly for me to put the inner and outters back on :-) and I had to remove a HUGE part of the floor LOL

[GASoline71]

In your case... I might add a couple braces... Wow!

Gary

[Khyron]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

In your case... I might add a couple braces... Wow!

Gary

just a few ;-)

[57taskforce]

That's where mine was at except I didn't have to do the front lower pillar tips. I didn't brace anything. I left the doors on and and made Sure I could get them closed, and had nice gaps. From there I just clamped it all in place best I could and tacked it up a little at a time checking very frequently that nothing moved.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by 57taskforce

That's where mine was at except I didn't have to do the front lower pillar tips. I didn't brace anything. I left the doors on and and made Sure I could get them closed, and had nice gaps. From there I just clamped it all in place best I could and tacked it up a little at a time checking very frequently that nothing moved.

Great advice: measure often !! Take your time and keep checking both sides as you go. Use some braces to get both sides in the ball park when you start installing pieces. There are some good videos on the web about our trucks to help you. After this job you will lose your amateur status. Keep posting as that will keep folks watching and offering advice. And did I mention take your time and measure often?

[James the III]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

In your case... I might add a couple braces... Wow!

Gary

Tis just a flesh wound...

Now a rust belt truck there be no brace it already be dust.

[palallin]

I am convinced the solution to the rocker problem is to make them easy to replace--unplug, remove, insert, plug in--and just go through the process every other year.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by palallin

I am convinced the solution to the rocker problem is to make them easy to replace--unplug, remove, insert, plug in--and just go through the process every other year.

That's the ticket. Make some inner rockers out of 1/4" flat bar and add some neo magnets to hold the outer rockers in place. Take them off once a year to repaint. You're a genius!

[cherokeejohn]

my advise/opinion; being a 3rd generation body tech/painter, and spending half my life in this salty environment, I've seen, fixed alot of rusty vehicle, and tried my best at preventing rust from destroying all my hard work. A sort-of fix mt father taught me and his pa taught him is to drill small holes along the lowest points of the body that typically rusts. Do this pre-paint if possible. keeping the holes small as possible but able to get small straws up inside and swivel around a bit. then there are two ways to close it up and still use it in the future. 1) is to buy very small rubber plugs with a outside lip i.e. 1/8", 7ish mm. I find the best place to get these is in bulk from Ebay, they are cheap and disposable, around $5-10 per 100, 2) is to use 1/4" stainless auto trim screws and get some very small rubber washers, also i get in bulk from Ebay. Fora rust preventative, there is a aerosol spray can sold by all auto paint suppliers (varies in manufacturer and name but same chemical inside) that is used to spray the backsides of auto panels that don't get painted, it is a little pricey but not out of this world expensive, and you just spray it through the little straw, inserted in the drilled hole all around inside the area on the vehicle then plug it off. repeat every couple years or so depending on how salty your region is. My father substitutes the fancy spray chemical with plain old spray Carnuba wax, or the dry silicone spray that's used by welders and metal and pipe worker, don't know the names of it but it's very commonly used in those field of work. It's used for bare metals to prevent rust while their project is under construction. Its also pre-coated on most raw metals sold for fabrications, the stuff you have to wipe off with laquer thinner or other chemical before welding or prepping for paint. Any major Welder should know of it and what its called. Again use as needed pending your region. I recommend also that if you drill your holes into the panels that are already painted, wipe a little bit of seam sealer, like used on driprails around the hole itself. Allow it to dry before putting the plug or screw in the hole though, it will prevent future headaches. Hope this helps a few of ya's out. any questions, just ask n I'll help out the best i can