ECE drums to disc

[cmg96]

I am almost done with the ECE brake conversion. Has anyone documented this process the pictures in directions are beyond fuzzy. I have to attach the hard line and prop valve. I am getting a bit confused. It took me forever to figure out the pad clips had to have them take a picture for me. A YouTube video would be great but I have not found one yet.

[Mike C]

I did this swap on my '69. I don't remember it being anything other than straightforward?

[cmg96]

I am sure that it is especially for someone with your experience. I am just learning this stuff so things like pictures and videos really help. That is the way I learn others can see it before they do it. I will figure out I am sure but any help is always appreciated.

[68 Stepper]

I just did the swap last summer, I found the pad clip after installing the pads and caliper... Had to pull it back apart. Not a big deal, but frustrating at the time. I did a bunch of you tube research and do not remember finding a one stop shop video. What exactly are you getting confused on? I can send you a pic if needed.

[Mike C]

What part of town are you in? You can look at my truck if you want.

[GASoline71]

Which hard lines? The fronts from the distribution block by the master cylinder? These rigs don't use a prop valve. Just a solid distribution block, usually mounted right near the M/C.

I know that when I swapped 1972 Disc brakes over to my 1969 frame I had to move the hard to soft line connector clips on the cross member from the rear to the front. But I was using a setup designed for a 1972 and making it work on a 1969 that I converted the entire front end over to 5 lug 1972 stuff.

Gary

[cmg96]

I am in south austin on 290 towards dripping springs

[Mike C]

I responded to your PM. Of course I'm up North, but feel free to text me or message me if you have questions. I included my cell in the PM response.

[cmg96]

I need a pictures of the lines from the master to the prop. I should have bought the new brake lines.

[cmg96]

So what can go wrong did. I was taking the old line off the original valve and well it snapped. This would not be an issue but it is the one that goes to the rear not the T that is included. Any thoughts guys? I believe it is still long enough if I can end on it.

[Mike C]

Frustrating. It is possible to cleanly cut the line and reflare it usually. Brake lines are a double flare and can be a pain with the cheap mechanical flare tools. If you can get the line off and have the fitting, I can help you re-flare it.

Otherwise just buy a new one. On my '69 I used the parts that come in the ECE kit. On the '70 GMC I did years ago I bought all new front lines from Inline Tube. On the GMC which was a 3/4 ton I used all the parts off a parts vehicle rather than a kit so I wasn't sure what was needed so bought them all.

[cmg96]

Makes perfect sense thank you. I took it to a local shop and they are putting the double back in the line. I just hope it is not too short now. I am going to buy the tools but was doing this for timing

[cmg96]

Oh snap everything is all hooked up went to bleed the brakes pump pump and all the fluid is leaking from the banjo bolts. I see two sides long square. I am wondering if they are upside down.

[Mike C]

Are you talking at the caliper? Do you have the copper washers installed on either side of the block that is attached to the rubber line?

[cmg96]

I do have the washers on each side. They are not the same shape it's kind of a wedge shape