Lower control pushed through the backing plates

[cmg96]

I installed the Early classics drum to disc conversion kit. When it was completed I did a poor mans alignment last night and took it a shop this morning for a pro one. I get a call saying my control is created a whole in my backing plates.

I was told I may have to grind my lower control arms to make it work any other ideas ?

[cmg96]

Here are the pictures

[68is4me]

hmmm. Did the kit come with the shields? I am using the ECE spindles but used new gm shields and parts from a 72 disc setup and had no problems. Maybe the shields got bent or not correct.

[cmg96]

do you have a part #

[sprint_9]

Those look like the wrong shield, there should be a hole cut where your arm is hitting.

Here is a Goodmark number and image for you to compare, http://www.goodmarkindustries.com/p-...-595-711p.aspx

[68is4me]

gm p/ns 14054938 rt, 14054937 lt but they are discontinued from gm now.

I would call ECE and ask them.

[cmg96]

What y'all's thoughts on just removing the backing plates and not using them.

[sprint_9]

You could probably do that, I contemplated doing that myself but wanted to run them to keep dust and heat away from ball joints, brake lines, etc.

One more thing to check and Im not even sure if its possible is to see if you have them on upside down, or swapped left to right?

[cmg96]

Here is a picture of just them on the wheel. I would hate to think that a left and right side exist on these. I see where the hole is on the originals. I talked to Mark and he said they normally cut the plates or put a dimple in them with a hammer. He said he wasn't able to get the OEM backing plates for the kit.
I sent him pictures and he is going to look them over

[sprint_9]

I was looking over your picture and it looks like you may have another issue, your drag link is on backwards. It needs to be flipped basically 180 degrees, you want the tie rods on the back side of the drag link, not the front. The drag link will kind of sit up in a notch on the cross member.

Fix that before you take it back in to be aligned.

[cmg96]

Originally Posted by sprint_9

I was looking over your picture and it looks like you may have another issue, your drag link is on backwards. It needs to be flipped basically 180 degrees, you want the tie rods on the back side of the drag link, not the front. The drag link will kind of sit up in a notch on the cross member.

Fix that before you take it back in to be aligned.

Oh snap do you have a picture of what it is supposed to look like ? This is definitely a rookie mistake.

[sprint_9]

This is the best I have at home, I can get more tomorrow. Maybe someone else has a good one. This gets you an idea of how the tie rod is positioned.

This thread has some good side shots, http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=366828

[NC_John]

Originally Posted by cmg96

What y'all's thoughts on just removing the backing plates and not using them.

The ones I was supplied in the CPP kit didn't clear the rotor at the hub and made noise so I threw them away and don't run them. If it was a daily driver, I probably would have tried to find some that would work but it's not so I didn't.

[sprint_9]

Another pic for you.

[midniteblues]

Oe backing plates have a hole/slot where yours rubbed threw.
A small burr bit in a drill could easliy open yours up and make it nice with a squirt of paint.

It looks like you may have aftermarket lower arms if you do you may need too touch the lip on the outer side of the ball joint with a grinder looks like it has just a touch of extra material there.

I allways try too remove spindles with the backing plates still on and that little hole makes it a bugger.

And your link is in backwards. Wait till you get it in rite it will feel like a whole new truck steering wise.

Seeing as many other guys are making this mistake it should become some kinda sticky.

[cmg96]

I cut the backing plates as mentioned I am still looking for a complete picture of the center drag link so I make sure it goes back together correctly.