Stripping Paint??

[Drew3]

What would you recommend for stripping multiple layers of paint and primer?
My truck currently has crappy rattle can primer on top of regular spray paint and the original paint. Looked at dustless blasting but around here that would cost more than I would want to. Thank for any recommendations.

[truckman72]

A torch and putty knife would work. We did that on ours because we had the same issue. Just be sure to get the metal to hot so that it doesn't warp.

[EA69TRK]

Aircraft stripper worked well for me

[clay68c10]

Paint stripper from the hardware store. I think it was Kleen Strip I used to strip my 68 Caddy.

It will make one hell of a mess. Get rolls of brown packing/painters paper to put on the ground or floor, catches all the goo that used to be paint.

Tape all the body seams and joints, you don't need it leaching back thru under new paint.

[67 chevelle]

aircraft stripper plus sand/media blasting works great , be carefull if you sandblast , I would recommend a small sandblaster if you go that way , industrial blasters can and will warp sheet metal fast

[Grumpy old man]

Using aircraft paint stripper is a bad idea , It can come back to ruin your paint job . and the time /mess and amount of work needed to clean up and neutralize before ever even coming close to using an epoxy primer makes it a real bad idea . sanding or media blasting is the right way to do it ,save your money until you can afford to do it right .

[71meangreenc10]

I'll will add that if you soda blast it, ensure the vehicle is completely stripped and a roller, soda will put a hurt on any circuits that are still on the vehicle. I used a commercial unit on my truck and today still find issues it caused way back in 2014. Also ensure you are in a well ventilated area, the soda we used did some damage on the vegetation.

I tried using stripper on the back of my GMC and it worked great, but as said it is a mess to clean up. Used it on the front and it not work at all on that surface.

Smitty

[projectking]

Blasting is best but a heat gun and razor blades will get it done. If you want the rattle can jobs off leaving the original paint graffiti remover or acetone will work.

[Drew3]

Would lacquer thinner or acetone work for this?
Posted via Mobile Device

[Grumpy old man]

Your looking for an easy and cheap way out . DON'T . your asking how to fix a problem but not posting any pictures of what your problem is ? You'll find you'll get better answers based on how many pictures you post . If this was all easy and cheap everyone would have a classic truck restored sitting in their driveway ...

[projectking]

Originally Posted by Drew3

Would lacquer thinner or acetone work for this?
Posted via Mobile Device

Check my above post.....

The solvent will remove the spray can mess but not the OEM catalyzed paint.

[dccubby]

you can try eastwood has a new tool for removing paint.

http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-contour-sct.html

i was thinking about trying it out. if you do, then let me know how it works.

[hugger6933]

I own a body shop and have since 1987. Chemical stripper while being pretty effective, is sometimes[most cases] hard to make sure it is neutralized leaving some residue behind to remind you later that you used it. Normally it reminds you by destroying the new finish you work so hard to apply and pay for.

I think the best for most all cases is to remove it with 80 grit on a D.A. sander. that is if you plan on going to the metal and starting from scratch[pun intended]

[my56chevytruck]

Originally Posted by EA69TRK

Aircraft stripper worked well for me

I agree, I've used Aircraft stripper on various paint stripping projects and it really works well. Make sure you wear good plastic gloves or you'll get serious burns.

[Shinysideup]

After restoring another truck and trying all methods I liked these the best. Took paint/bondo off fast and didnt leave metal badly scratched. Use the ones for a 4" grinder not a drill. Look for "paint stripper disk" 3M and others sell them.

[hugger6933]

those stripper disc do work great on the 4 inch angle grinder. I bought a tool from TP tools and it came with a stripper wheel a stripe eraser and a wire wheel thingy. I just about used up a stripper wheel on my 70 truck I WAS working on[maybe again someday] so I ordered a couple of extras I love that little tool it was worth the money if your gonna strip stuff

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Grumpy old man

Using aircraft paint stripper is a bad idea , It can come back to ruin your paint job . and the time /mess and amount of work needed to clean up and neutralize before ever even coming close to using an epoxy primer makes it a real bad idea . sanding or media blasting is the right way to do it ,save your money until you can afford to do it right .

On topic. I've been using aircraft remover for small parts. I wash them many times, and more recently I soak them in baking soda & water. Add to that a good soak in WD-40. Then I pack them away for another day. We're dry, but I'll prep before paint. The bolts & such will run through a zinc plating process. At any rate, any recommendations for media blast set-up for the occasional DIY type for larger parts? My compressor is not great (5 HP 13 Ga.).

[Orence1]

I have had some success with a product called Lightening Strip. It is fluid enough that you can spray it on. Keep it wet by re-applications and it will cut through more than one layer of paint. It scrapes off pretty easily with a putty knife and is water soluble. The thing I like about it is that the solvent flashes off fairly quickly so the paint scrapped off becomes dry flakes and can be easily swept up and disposed of in the trash. One of things I would suggest is masking inwards from any body openings. For example, if you are doing a fender, mask off the door opening and hood gap 4" into the area you are stripping. It then will leave you only those narrow areas to be sanded down to metal. Typically I have found that you will want to go over the area with a DA after the last application. Always a bit of primer left in spots and it cleans up very quickly with an 80g DA disc. One of the things I like about this method is that I am not dealing with a lot of sanding dust. The final sanding produces very little dust as most of the paint/primer has been stripped off.

[randy500]

I would note that because the paint and the paint remover has dried the chemical still exists which stripped the paint, its just now dry on the surface or whatever it contacted, moisture from the air your hands etc will re-hydrate it and it can burn your skin or strip paint, the dust can strip paint, so collect all the paint you removed and dispose of it.
Strip a panel at a time and neutralize the panel, surrounding areas and the floor with lots of soapy water, then sand it.