frame off advice

[Rust hole]

So I made the decision to pull the body off and start from the ground up. Not looking to go crazy with it at all. I was hoping to get some advice on the best way to get the body off without a lift and make a cradle to hold it. I was thinking a wood cradle to save a few $$ for parts. Is this a good option? Is there something/problem spot to look for while doing this? Should I even take the body off?

Once the body is off what do you guys recommend for frame paint? I want to go with air ride but not a full porter built kit ( not in my budget), rear disk and a good cleaning. Also new fuel and brake lines and all the rubber parts.

BTW its a 72 with a 305 2 barrel 350 turbo with P/S and P/B. looking for a good cruiser and occasional daily. I don't think I have the budget for an LS but Really don't know how much that will be so not out of the question but definitely need A/C here in Fl. This will hopefully only be a 2-3 year project. I do have some seed money to start but most will be pay as I go while I have the bosses blessing!

Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks, Damon

[polishspy]

currently going through the same thing on my 70' k20 burb. I plan on undercoating the frame. I have the luxury of a lift. But, if not i would suggest 6 strong people and some straps to lift the body off.

LS engines can be found for cheap its the mating up and accessories that are expensive. Mine came with 350 and SM465 transmissions. I'm keeping the tranny and transfer case combo but, taking the 350 and making it a fuel injected 383 stroker. Low end torque is what im shooting for and you don't really get that in an LS.

[87max]

I did a thread, frame rotisserie on the cheap. Give an option for you. Frame rests on a wood cart for storage.

[GIZZ]

If you have the room to spare for as long as the project takes, Id pull the body off to make the frame look nice.

I'm about to go through the same thing with my panel truck.

If I still had my car hauler without a doubt I'd be getting the frame blasted and powder coated. Weigh out the cost of consumables and paint, and your time, it makes sense to just pay to get it blasted and coated. I'm still considering renting or buying a trailer to get this done, otherwise I'll just hate myself and use this case of RustBullet.

[Rust hole]

Talked to a few mobile blasters today. Any experience with the dustless guys? or go old school?

[Franks 72]

I took my rolling frame to an industrial truck cleaner (they will come to your location but I wanted all the junk in his wash bay not in my driveway! I looked at water jet sand blast / dry ice $/walnut shell.
In the end I stripped everything off and had it sand blasted. Treat it quickly after sand blast to prevent oxidization. I used POR 15 but it is will not tolerate humidity during application / drying and is nasty for your lungs. It turned out great and is tough as nails (I brushed it to reduce waste / save lungs)

[Rust hole]

Thanks for the advice franks72. That was my plan for the paint. Yours looks great and you say you did it with a brush? I'm all for that

[In The Ten Ring]

There is a mobile blaster I take my fenders to, I would haul a frame to him and have him clean it off.

I have heard about POR 15 and apparently it is "da bomb."

Another thing to consider would be Line X coating. Perhaps someone here can chime in as I do not know much about it other than it is stronger and thinner than Rhino-lining.

[pwdcougar]

I built a wood frame cart to hold my Sub body while I do my heavy rust repair. It's made from 2x12 lumber and the body rests on all 10 mounting points. It wasn't expensive to build but getting the frame out from under the body was a pain without a lift or other heavy machinery.

Paul

[my56chevytruck]

I pulled my truck body off complete and was pondering the same as you, so what i did, was invited a few friends over, since having a car trailer I donated the bed, body and fenders to the frame. took off the rear axle and all front suspension parts. then I began sanding and sand blasting (outside the garage) and went to my local NAPA store. I picked up red oxide primer and rust o leum satin black paint. After a about a week or so, I was done with the frame. Yes you can do it all by yourself and yes it all takes time. the more you do it by yourself the happier you'll be of what you've done.

[Franks 72]

Brush and a small 4" or so roller. Body was lifted with 2 farm jacks concrete blocks and shimmed as we went . Work slowly a bit at the front then a bit at the back. All doors were off and glass was out. I took the front wheels off and laid 2 x 4 on the floor for the rotors to run on(rather than dragging on the backing plate.The front of the frame need s to be low in order to clear the humps in the frame. If you are doing serious work under the body ,I would recommend a rotissarie . It makes it so much easier to clean repair and makes the body somewhat mobile (concrete floor required if rolling it around.

[Rust hole]

I started removing the body. I got all but 1 bolt out. several broke which is fine with me but one in the rear that goes thru the wood floor is not giving up! I plan on replacing the wood floor anyway so i kinda cut it away hoping it would give up. Used the floor jack and a chunk of wood but nothing so far. Has anyone encountered this? did I miss something? I count 10 total bolts.

Thanks

[CG]

These suckers are heavy. When we took the panel body off my chassis it was gutted and I think it took 6 of us and a small boy =)

I built a dolly out of square tube, big heavy duty castors I got from a supply store that sells used commercial grade stuff, and a chunk of old suburban frame.

[Franks 72]

Can you see a gap developing at all bolt points? Which location is giving trouble? Mine was really stuck in the area of the main crossmember at the front of the plywood.There is a spacer inserted in the rubber bushings. Try removing the mounts/ spacers (3 pieces), and shim with wood.This way you will see which location is stuck. I will do a bolt count tomorrow.

[Rust hole]

Its sticking at the back left corner. I am working in a tight space right now so that is a small problem too. I can/will move it today and see if i can make some headway. It's raining here today so no "real" work! Good time to get ahead on the burban. Hopefully I'll be able to post some pics soon

[Rust hole]

Eureka!!the body is free. the bolt that goes thru the plywood on the drivers side was the trouble. H ad to take a cut off wheel and dice it up then use a BFH!

I under estimated the height I would need to clear the wheels so back to home depot for more 4x4s. Any thought on how many cross supports one should use and locations. Currently 1 under front doors and 1 in rear wheel well (not ideal) I was thinking 1 in front and behind rear wheels

Thanks, Damon

[olblue60@aol.com]

I lifted mine off with an engine hoist. It worked great.