Lifting cab and cab mount torque?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

71 C-10 - stripped cab

Never pulled a cab before, and that's an understatement........I was going to do this 4-man power, but that's a hassle. So I think I'm going to bite the bullet for a hoist.

Lifting from floor: My instinct says lift from the floor using the cab mount holes, and maybe a few seat holes as well. Let's say I do this using eye-bolts.........be nice to add a nut onto the other side, but having never seen a cab mounting plate before, not sure a nut would fit through the hole in the plate. Course I suppose a nut is overkill. Just thinking out loud here, looking for input.

Lifting from door frame: Might be easier to lift from what I believe is the door frame. nice jig here, post 749 (http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...613097&page=30), which brings me to the image below.........See captions for a few questions.


Cab mounting torque:.....referencing pages 86-89 in the assembly manual. Page 86-87 shows fronts @ 70-90 lbs. & rears @ 35-55 pounds....... Page 88 shows fronts @ 20-30 lbs.........Page 89 shows 14-20 lbs. & 20-30 lbs. for who knows what front and back.........Fun!..............So, which is the better guide? I suppose they varied by the types of the cab mounts being used.

Appreciate any input. Thank you.


Just for thrills and giggles, I checked the torque on my original mounts.
Left front: 83 foot pounds.
Right front: 104 foot pounds...What the?
Left rear: 54 foot pounds.
Right rear: 73 foot pounds.

[davepl]

The cabs are surprisingly light - the beds are surprisingly heavier (even heavier when you forget a bolt, I might add). I paid very little attention to what part of the cab my lift was touching and it didn't hurt anything. I'd guess the cab is light enough to not damage even the pinch weld if you lift on it, but that doesn't make it the hot ticket, of course.

To use the bed/cab lift I used, which I made from buying plans on the board, you do need to have the glass out of it. Then it's one "leg" out the front, one out the back, and one out each side, and the load is split 4 ways.

If I had to do it over again, and I was just doing the cab, I'd just find some people to help me move it. But the bed is a bigger challenge.

[clay68c10]

I just lifted a cab last week. I used a t-shaped bracket I made out of steel that bolted to a wood 4x4. I bolted this contraption on the end of my cherry picker and went in thru the driver's door window. The 4x4 spanned across the indented area of the metal headliner. It worked just fine. I situated it as far forward as the glass run channel/vent post would let me. I was surprised by how stable it was, the only things I will change in the future is to make a 6" longer box tube for the cherry picker and shorten up my T, the lifting arm was very close to the top edge of the door at full lift.

[clay68c10]

Here's a half a$$ pic

[clay68c10]

I bolted the 4x4 to the piece that runs parallel to the lifting arm clamped in the vise. I was going to use a board on the other side (pointing to the right in the pic) to lock into the dome light hole for stability. I did a quick test lift with just the 4x4 and it was so stable that I didn't bother with the 2nd board. I only moved it about 6ft this time, when I need to move it further I will add the stabilizer to the rear.

I did make a twin to the flat t-shaped piece to sandwich the 4x4, probably overkill but it seemed like a good idea.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by davepl

The cabs are surprisingly light - the beds are surprisingly heavier (even heavier when you forget a bolt, I might add). I paid very little attention to what part of the cab my lift was touching and it didn't hurt anything. I'd guess the cab is light enough to not damage even the pinch weld if you lift on it, but that doesn't make it the hot ticket, of course.

To use the bed/cab lift I used, which I made from buying plans on the board, you do need to have the glass out of it. Then it's one "leg" out the front, one out the back, and one out each side, and the load is split 4 ways.

If I had to do it over again, and I was just doing the cab, I'd just find some people to help me move it. But the bed is a bigger challenge.

No kidding the bed is heavier? Short bed? I've pulled a short bed more than a few times, 4 guys. Not heavy at all and I'm 157 soaking wet. Your jig one of these by chance? http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=219353

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

I just lifted a cab last week. I used a t-shaped bracket I made out of steel that bolted to a wood 4x4. I bolted this contraption on the end of my cherry picker and went in thru the driver's door window. The 4x4 spanned across the indented area of the metal headliner. It worked just fine. I situated it as far forward as the glass run channel/vent post would let me. I was surprised by how stable it was, the only things I will change in the future is to make a 6" longer box tube for the cherry picker and shorten up my T, the lifting arm was very close to the top edge of the door at full lift.

Sounds like you had the doors and windshield on. I say windshield from reading other posts, where you have to place the jig forward from center to account for the weight.

Doesn't bang-up the ceiling I gather. Did you you use an arm extension? I've read "metal square tube for the extension piece"....The contraption per the link in the OP used one.

I like your idea for a T a lot. Simple as heck.

[clay68c10]

Thanks, it works well for being made of all free scrap. No scratches, I did lay some rubber mat over the board just in case.

I lifted the cab with the glass and the doors, it's sitting outside for now so I wanted to keep it weather proof. I pulled the seat and carpet. Maybe the partial tank of nasty varnished fuel helped balance it.
I didn't have a longer extension for the engine lift, it would help for it to be 6 inches longer just to keep the cab back from the hydraulic ram. I will also be drilling my pivot bolt hole a little higher to get more clearance when the cab is lifted higher, like when removing it from a truck bed. It would probably just clear a 2wd frame as is with the doors on. Without doors it would be just fine at any height.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by clay68c10

Thanks, it works well for being made of all free scrap. No scratches, I did lay some rubber mat over the board just in case.

I lifted the cab with the glass and the doors, it's sitting outside for now so I wanted to keep it weather proof. I pulled the seat and carpet. Maybe the partial tank of nasty varnished fuel helped balance it.
I didn't have a longer extension for the engine lift, it would help for it to be 6 inches longer just to keep the cab back from the hydraulic ram. I will also be drilling my pivot bolt hole a little higher to get more clearance when the cab is lifted higher, like when removing it from a truck bed. It would probably just clear a 2wd frame as is with the doors on. Without doors it would be just fine at any height.

Rubber pad, great idea. I use it for all my carts etc.

[clay68c10]

Here's some better pics with the wood installed

****And definitely use the rubber matting, pretty sure the metal will get a dent if you don't.****

[Dustmaker65]

Here is a picture of the one I made a couple years ago. It works great, and I have moved several cabs by myself.

[clay68c10]

Nice, I like the width of that. Like a mini floor joist. I bet it's super stable.

Really, these cabs aren't super heavy so there's lots of good ways to do it

[70STOVEBOLT]

I used a 4x4 through the door openings (doors off, glass in) with a 2" nylon strap at each end and picked it up with an overhead hoist. The only thing to remember is that the cab is front-heavy so I positioned the 4x4 toward the front of the door openings.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Dustmaker65

Here is a picture of the one I made a couple years ago. It works great, and I have moved several cabs by myself.

That's one I see often. Looks like it lifts from the pinch welds. I give up, what's the 2x4 and belt on the floor for?

[Dustmaker65]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

That's one I see often. Looks like it lifts from the pinch welds. I give up, what's the 2x4 and belt on the floor for?

LOL...I used that to drag it with my wench to the end of my trailer. Gotta get creative when you work by yourself

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Dustmaker65

LOL...I used that to drag it with my wench to the end of my trailer. Gotta get creative when you work by yourself

Awesome..........

Just ordered this for my garage. A rental MAY have been wiser considering how often I'll use it, but a lot to be said for convenience. Amazon was about $90 less than a direct purchase through Northern Tool...........

https://www.amazon.com/Strongway-Hyd...words=strongwa

[Dustmaker65]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Awesome..........

Just ordered this for my garage. A rental MAY have been wiser considering how often I'll use it, but a lot to be said for convenience. Amazon was about $90 less than a direct purchase through Northern Tool...........

https://www.amazon.com/Strongway-Hyd...words=strongwa

I usually find them on CL for $50 and only used once. When the cylinder starts leaking, it becomes a welding project for my kid...then cut up and scraped...lol

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Dustmaker65

I usually find them on CL for $50 and only used once. When the cylinder starts leaking, it becomes a welding project for my kid...then cut up and scraped...lol

Don't say cylinder starts leaking.... I'm into this unit $330......Could have gone say $40 cheaper with a Harbor Freight, but the reviews on this Strongway are very good, and something to be said for delivery, assuming a certain package delivery co. doesn't "jack" it up like I've seen too many times.


Wish I could weld. My son has done it, but no equipment. I don't have the space......My wife's going to be pissed when this project takes us into the third garage........It's coming...........Ha!

[Dustmaker65]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

Don't say cylinder starts leaking.... I'm into this unit $330......Could have gone say $40 cheaper with a Harbor Freight, but the reviews on this Strongway are very good, and something to be said for delivery, assuming a certain package delivery co. doesn't "jack" it up like I've seen too many times.


Wish I could weld. My son has done it, but no equipment. I don't have the space......My wife's going to be pissed when this project takes us into the third garage........It's coming...........Ha!

LOL...mine would be happy with just a third garage...I just bought an empty car dealership for a new man cave.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Dustmaker65

LOL...mine would be happy with just a third garage...I just bought an empty car dealership for a new man cave.

I could use an empty car dealership. I meant garage "space". My Tundra hasn't seen the garage in over a year. Like my wife, it's not happy with the situation either.

[Dustmaker65]

They are out there and available!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

How cool is that. You weren't kidding old dealership. Shot in the dark here, that looks like 1910-20s with newer doors and windows.

[Dustmaker65]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

How cool is that. You weren't kidding old dealership. Shot in the dark here, that looks like 1910-20s with newer doors and windows.

Late 30's to early 80's...lol. Nope, was not kidding. Been working on getting this place for a few months!

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

71 C-10 - stripped cab

Cab mounting torque:.....referencing pages 86-89 in the assembly manual. Page 86-87 shows fronts @ 70-90 lbs. & rears @ 35-55 pounds....... Page 88 shows fronts @ 20-30 lbs.........Page 89 shows 14-20 lbs. & 20-30 lbs. for who knows what front and back.........Fun!..............So, which is the better guide? I suppose they varied by the types of the cab mounts being used.

Appreciate any input. Thank you.


Just for thrills and giggles, I checked the torque on my original mounts.
Left front: 83 foot pounds.
Right front: 104 foot pounds...What the?
Left rear: 54 foot pounds.
Right rear: 73 foot pounds.

Any ideas for cab torque? Page 86-87 per the above is likely the correct reference. Pages 88-89 is throwing me off.

[GASoline71]

Was just gonna ask about that. Looking for same TQ numbers.

Gary