72 Suburban air ride

[Rust hole]

Looking to do air ride on my suburban. Never put one of these on before. I see porter on here a lot but they are real proud of their stuff and I don't want to wait 3 or more months. I'm sure it's great stuff but I'm ready to go now. I talked to a couple of companys and got prices, found Bc fab has the parts I want for a good price. Anybody have experience with them?

I want to keep the factory upper and lower arms for now so whats the best way to attach the bags? I read something about cutting the lowers and welding in a cup or should I just use the bolt on plates upper and lower? Also what shocks are you running? Do I need a new cross member for the back? I'll take all the advice I can get!

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just new to this and want to do it right the first time.

Thanks, Damon

[cooperhw]

Well, I am sorry but cannot point you in the right direction but as I am also getting ready to do this type install I will follow along. Good luck.

[bbbc10]

chopping block has parts in stock....no wait time with them also gsi fabrication has parts too

[Pro Performance]

Originally Posted by Rust hole

Looking to do air ride on my suburban. Never put one of these on before. I see porter on here a lot but they are real proud of their stuff and I don't want to wait 3 or more months. I'm sure it's great stuff but I'm ready to go now. I talked to a couple of companys and got prices, found Bc fab has the parts I want for a good price. Anybody have experience with them?

I want to keep the factory upper and lower arms for now so whats the best way to attach the bags? I read something about cutting the lowers and welding in a cup or should I just use the bolt on plates upper and lower? Also what shocks are you running? Do I need a new cross member for the back? I'll take all the advice I can get!

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just new to this and want to do it right the first time.

Thanks, Damon

Hey Damon,

We would be glad to help. If you are wanting to use stock arms, then a aftermarket crossmember is out of the questions. You can cup the lower arms and gain some extra drop.

It all comes down to how low you want to go. That is really going to determine what components will work best for you. Are you wanting to lay it on the ground?

Send us an email, call or PM and can definitely help put something together that fits your needs.

480-420-8175
travis@azproperformance.com

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by Rust hole

Looking to do air ride on my suburban. Never put one of these on before. I see porter on here a lot but they are real proud of their stuff and I don't want to wait 3 or more months. I'm sure it's great stuff but I'm ready to go now. I talked to a couple of companys and got prices, found Bc fab has the parts I want for a good price. Anybody have experience with them?

I want to keep the factory upper and lower arms for now so whats the best way to attach the bags? I read something about cutting the lowers and welding in a cup or should I just use the bolt on plates upper and lower? Also what shocks are you running? Do I need a new cross member for the back? I'll take all the advice I can get!

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just new to this and want to do it right the first time.

Thanks, Damon

I have dealt with BC fabrication in the past for some parts and it was a very good transaction and have sent a few local buddies there and they had to same results.

My setup has upper bag plates and lower cups with 2.5 CPP drop spindles purchased FROM Summit Racing .
There are number of options of air management systems out there and some of good vendors here also.
Good luck.

[3drburb]

Do you have a half ton with trailing arms?
If so the bags will replace the springs on the trailing arms and a c notch if wanted.
Stock shocks with shock relocators.

How low do you want to go?

[Rust hole]

I want to go as low as possible with out cutting the floor. I planned on running the stock trailing arms mainly because of budget. Same as the control arms. I actually just got the body off yesterday and plan on doing some disassembly and game planning today. AS a note I plan on getting the CCP front and rear disk set up that includes the drop spindles, all i've read is positive about them

[3drburb]

If you want their parts go to Summit or one of their vendors.
Btw I am assuming that it's a 2wd.
Do you have a 1/2, 3/4 or 1 ton??

[Rust hole]

Yeah sorry, it's a 2 wheel drive 1/2 ton. Like I said I want to go as low as I can with out cutting the floor. If I do get new trailing arms will it be worth it? Will that need a new cross member?

I think I really like the accuair with elevel. Seems like a good name and a complete kit. Ride tech looks good too but the $$ seems a bit high in my opinion. If I'm wrong or heading in the wrong direction please let me know.

Thanks

[bbbc10]

I wouldn't bother bagging it if your just gonna leave the inner fenders in an not cut the rear....just go static

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by Rust hole

Yeah sorry, it's a 2 wheel drive 1/2 ton. Like I said I want to go as low as I can with out cutting the floor. If I do get new trailing arms will it be worth it? Will that need a new cross member?

I think I really like the accuair with elevel. Seems like a good name and a complete kit. Ride tech looks good too but the $$ seems a bit high in my opinion. If I'm wrong or heading in the wrong direction please let me know.

Thanks

If you are on a budget it may be better to rebuild the suspension add the bag system and forget about the rear disc for now.
You can C notch the rear and keep your trailing arms. Add front and rear sway bars a pan hard bar and be good to go with some lowering blocks.

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

I wouldn't bother bagging it if your just gonna leave the inner fenders in an not cut the rear....just go static

I bagged mines and kept the inner fenders and still have my c notch sitting on the shelf not installed so my rear is uncut.

[Rust hole]

3drburb, Thanks for the pics your burb looks great! That is about were I want to be. But a few questions, what bags did you use? what shocks? what air management system? why no C notch? What size are those tires/

I was planning on doing a C notch and if the inner fenders need to go that's ok with me.

Thanks

[3drburb]

Thanks,
The bags are dominator 2600. Stock KB shocks with shock relocators front and rear. (I didn't want drop shocks).
The bag system is just a basic entry level FBSS setup with gauges and switches for each bag.
The reason I didn't add the c-notch is because I was just to busy by the time I got them, but still considering it every now and again, but you can add the notch and have your bump stops set before the axle hits the bed floor.
The tires in the pictures are 245/60/15 fronts and 275/60/15 in the rear.
I have since went to 255/60/15 up front but the other tires worked great, I guess I am getting older and like more sidewall.
It also have lowering blocks, 2.5 drop spindles, front and rear sway bars and added a beefy pan hard bar.
It wasn't completely aired out in the pictures and I may remove the inner front fender and build new ones but I will not drive without them.
I wish you the best in whatever you plan to do.
GO FOR IT!!!

[Rust hole]

3drburb, Why didn't you want drop shocks?

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by Rust hole

3drburb, Why didn't you want drop shocks?

The reviews on them are not that good. When I first considered bagging my rig I saw a lot of drop shocks on here for sale and most people selling them got the relocators.
Also I can go to the local auto store and get good proven shocks with a warranty without waiting for something that looks like its made for a car and hope that they work for my heavy rig.
If you get or make shock relocators you should be close to the stock travel once you are at ride height.

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by Rust hole

3drburb, Why didn't you want drop shocks?

Btw when I was looking to do the same as you are, I got great advice on this suspension forum that's why I didn't get drop shocks.

[Rust hole]

3drburb, Thanks for the info/your opinion! That's why I posted. Looking to do it right the first time.

Thanks again, Damon

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Rust hole

3drburb, Why didn't you want drop shocks?

It's always better to run the longest possible travel shock when possible vs a shorter/drop shock. More travel yields better ride quality most of the time. Off the shelf shocks are typically cheaper (cost) & brackets are easy find (or to make if you're a fab guy).

[Rust hole]

scoti, Thanks for your input. Of course that makes sense, but I'm new these set ups. I've done static drops in the past but never as low as I want to go on this one.

[3drburb]

Originally Posted by Rust hole

scoti, Thanks for your input. Of course that makes sense, but I'm new these set ups. I've done static drops in the past but never as low as I want to go on this one.

That is one of the guys that helped me when I was considering mines.
I have not had a problem in all the time it's been installed,
Going now on 4 years and bagging another one.
Good luck.

[Rust hole]

So I spoke to Travis at AZproperfermance and I'm going to buy from them. Good price and he took the time to answer all my questions. Also they offer some parts that I haven't seen before. I'm getting those as well!

This is Not and advert for them! just an update of where I'm at with the project.

I was able to get the engine and trans out this week as well as the gas tank in prep for the blaster. hopefullythat can get done next week. Than the POR15 and new parts. Thanks again for all the advice!

[andrewmp6]

I haven't bought from travis yet but if i ever need something he sells i would go to him first.

[Hart_Rod]

Bolt in C-notch with factory inner fenders.

[Rust hole]

Hartrod, As you've heard before sweet suburban! In those pics is that aired all the way out? if so what is the measurement from the bottom of the frame to the ground? Did you use stock A arms?

Thanks, Damon