Very Hard & High Brake Pedal

[Vtec2V8]

1969 C10 Fleetside Long Bed
350 SBC
Manual Drum all 4 wheels.
New M/C (Bench Bled), new wheel cylinders x4, new hardware and shoes x4, new front rubber brake hoses x2.

So here goes, i recently dove back into my truck to get it road worthy again. That meant replacing all the items listed above. After spending about an hour bleeding all the new wheel cylinders (What a PITA), the friend of mine that was helping (also a c10 owner) noticed the brake pedal sat much higher in my truck than his and that the pedal was much MUCH harder to depress than his. This is my first and only manual brake vehicle. So i didnt know any better about how it was suppose to feel. His is also manual brakes. I did notice my brake pedal sit much higher and i did notice after driving his truck that i didnt have to pick up my leg to depress his brakes. I took a look at the M/C rod and theres about 3 threads left to pull the pedal towards the fire wall, his has quite a few more threads. Also when bleeding the brakes, we had to really press hard on the brake pedal to get any fluid moving to the back wheel cylinders. I eventually got a steady stream of brake fluid to all 4 wheel cylinders.

We were suspicious that the issue was in the M/C and/or the distribution block. So we individually cracked each line and bled them from the top. Everything seemed to work the way it was suppose to, no air in anything, what could be causing the pedal to be press so hard to get alittle bit of fluid to the rear cylinders, it felt as if the rear wasnt getting enough pressure. It would just trickle out, not blast out.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Vtec2V8

1969 C10 Fleetside Long Bed
350 SBC
Manual Drum all 4 wheels.
New M/C (Bench Bled), new wheel cylinders x4, new hardware and shoes x4, new front rubber brake hoses x2.

So here goes, i recently dove back into my truck to get it road worthy again. That meant replacing all the items listed above. After spending about an hour bleeding all the new wheel cylinders (What a PITA), the friend of mine that was helping (also a c10 owner) noticed the brake pedal sat much higher in my truck than his and that the pedal was much MUCH harder to depress than his. This is my first and only manual brake vehicle. So i didnt know any better about how it was suppose to feel. His is also manual brakes. I did notice my brake pedal sit much higher and i did notice after driving his truck that i didnt have to pick up my leg to depress his brakes. I took a look at the M/C rod and theres about 3 threads left to pull the pedal towards the fire wall, his has quite a few more threads. Also when bleeding the brakes, we had to really press hard on the brake pedal to get any fluid moving to the back wheel cylinders. I eventually got a steady stream of brake fluid to all 4 wheel cylinders.

We were suspicious that the issue was in the M/C and/or the distribution block. So we individually cracked each line and bled them from the top. Everything seemed to work the way it was suppose to, no air in anything, what could be causing the pedal to be press so hard to get alittle bit of fluid to the rear cylinders, it felt as if the rear wasnt getting enough pressure. It would just trickle out, not blast out.

I noticed you didn't mention replacing the rear rubber brake line at the rear end housing. I'm betting that is your problem. It is plugged on the inside from rubber liner deterioration. I would try replacing it.

LockDoc

[Vtec2V8]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

I noticed you didn't mention replacing the rear rubber brake line at the rear end housing. I'm betting that is your problem. It is plugged on the inside from rubber liner deterioration. I would try replacing it.

LockDoc

Its funny you say that, i just ordered one.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Vtec2V8

Its funny you say that, i just ordered one.

Great minds think alike...... Let us know if that cures it or not.

LockDoc

[Vtec2V8]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Great minds think alike...... Let us know if that cures it or not.

LockDoc

Pray i can get the lines free, im pretty sure that this is the original hose from 69. Acetone and trans fluid to the rescue!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Vtec2V8

Pray i can get the lines free, im pretty sure that this is the original hose from 69. Acetone and trans fluid to the rescue!

Heat on the fittings help too, even from a propane torch, and it won't hurt anything. Just be careful of the Acetone and if you have a wood floor bed....

LockDoc

[B. W.]

It's possible you have a M/C for power brakes, sometimes the depth of the push rod hole is different between power & non assist M/C's.

[Vtec2V8]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Heat on the fittings help too, even from a propane torch, and it won't hurt anything. Just be careful of the Acetone and if you have a wood floor bed....

LockDoc

This is a work truck, not a show truck.

[Vtec2V8]

Originally Posted by B. W.

It's possible you have a M/C for power brakes, sometimes the depth of the push rod hole is different between power & non assist M/C's.

Can you put a non-assist M/C on an aftermarket brake booster setup?

[B. W.]

Sorry, the way I read it you had manual (non-power assist) brakes. So it does have a brake booster?

You can put a manual M/C on a booster & vice-versa & it may work. It is probably best to stick with the correct M/C. With power assist (booster) it is common for the M/C to have a larger bore (for discs also).

[Vtec2V8]

Originally Posted by B. W.

Sorry, the way I read it you had manual (non-power assist) brakes. So it does have a brake booster?

You can put a manual M/C on a booster & vice-versa & it may work. It is probably best to stick with the correct M/C. With power assist (booster) it is common for the M/C to have a larger bore (for discs also).

I was asking a general question. You are correct sir, i do have manual brakes.