coil spring clock position

[nightrider388]

I have fought with these coil springs and they keep slipping off the upper. Where exactly should the spring start/stop? Maybe the spring is wrong? 1970 c10 2wd . Thanks for any help in advance.

[kwmech]

I set the spring in relation to the lower arm. make sure that the upper is on the outside of the lip, then jack up the floor jack until I can get the ball joint nut started

[GR8-68]

Also make sure your not trying to install it upside down

[nightrider388]

The part that is scraped off, is that where the end of the coil spring should rest. When its in the lower cup position, it sits about half way on that raised ridge .

[Pro299]

I'm going through this now as well. I bought the Moog HD springs for my C10 because that's what the glove box sticker says it had originally. Bought them from Summit Racing. They will not clock correctly in the frame and lower control arm. It's either/or. Summit tech line says they are correct for the year and model. They gave me the tech line number for Moog. When I talked to them they said they've been selling that spring for these trucks for decades. When I told them the problem, they said to seat the spring correctly in the upper perch and not worry about perfect seating in the control arm, in order to allow the spring to twist. I think that sounds goofy, but that's their story. Regardless, the spring is in and can't get out of the control arm so I'm going with it.

[nightrider388]

Originally Posted by Pro299

I'm going through this now as well. I bought the Moog HD springs for my C10 because that's what the glove box sticker says it had originally. Bought them from Summit Racing. They will not clock correctly in the frame and lower control arm. It's either/or. Summit tech line says they are correct for the year and model. They gave me the tech line number for Moog. When I talked to them they said they've been selling that spring for these trucks for decades. When I told them the problem, they said to seat the spring correctly in the upper perch and not worry about perfect seating in the control arm, in order to allow the spring to twist. I think that sounds goofy, but that's their story. Regardless, the spring is in and can't get out of the control arm so I'm going with it.

Yeah I talked and emailed eibach several times. They said the spring is right and not to worry about the bottom. It's just aggravating that what you are buying is more of a universal spring vs a custom fit. However, eibach never really told me where the spring should ride in the upper pocket. All they kept saying was just make sure the top is correct.

[Boog]

Is that a 3" dropped spring? I've heard of them dropping out of place when jacked up. Not so with a 2" spring.

[nightrider388]

Originally Posted by Boog

Is that a 3" dropped spring? I've heard of them dropping out of place when jacked up. Not so with a 2" spring.

It's a 2" spring. I just wish someone would take pics under the control arm showing the top pocket so I would know how mine should go.

[Boog]

There is only one way for it to go. If it is clocked right in the lower control arm it is right at the upper end too.
I can't imagine how your spring could be moving off it's upper mount.

[weq92f]

If it's the right spring, it should be slightly tapered at the "top" ( smaller circle thatn the "bottom".

The bottm of the spring is uneven, where the spring ends at the "bottom", that chunk of metal goes into the lowest portion of the cup in the lower control arm. That's where you "clock" it correctly and no, the spring doesn't turn at all once installed.

-klb

[Pro299]

Originally Posted by Boog

There is only one way for it to go. If it is clocked right in the lower control arm it is right at the upper end too.
I can't imagine how your spring could be moving off it's upper mount.

There should only be one way for it to go, but on the Moog springs, the top of the spring is straight for about the last two or three inches and should match up with the straight portion of the upper perch. (Think D-shaped.) The spring can't twist because of the two flats mated together. Problem is, if you get that part correct, the end of the spring at the bottom is about three inches shy of "mating" with the groove end on the lower control arm. Moog says it doesn't need to match up at the bottom end. I think it should, but then I'm just a customer.

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by Pro299

Moog says it doesn't need to match up at the bottom end. I think it should, but then I'm just a customer.

If the spring isn't all the way into the "groove" on the bottom, the truck will ride higher on that side as a result. If the groove is not engaged at all you'll be close to an inch higher than it should be.

-klb

[nightrider388]

Originally Posted by Boog

There is only one way for it to go. If it is clocked right in the lower control arm it is right at the upper end too.
I can't imagine how your spring could be moving off it's upper mount.

If I clock mine right in the lower control arm, then the upper is not wrapping around the D shape right. Eibach too claims only worry about the top. I don't see how because that pocket is what makes the spring sit flat in the lower control arm. Without it, the spring wants to push to one side or the other.

[weq92f]

Check your spring end point alignment with mine. This is likely your issue ( yours isn't aligned like the pic ):

[nightrider388]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Check your spring end point alignment with mine. This is likely your issue ( yours isn't aligned like the pic ):

I definitely think my clocking position of spring is off.

[nightrider388]

Another angle

[weq92f]

Originally Posted by nightrider388

Another angle

That's a match the one I pictured.

Have a look at your lower A-arms and note which "way" the spring would be pointing if it were seated in the valley ( like where the cut of part of the bottom of the spring would be pointing ). Mine are:

Driver pints toward the driver rear wheel
Passenger points forward and slightly right.

-klb

[nightrider388]

This is my passenger side when the spring is seared in the pocket

[hewittca]

I think these last two photos you posted are the key to the answer. You can tell from that bottom up angle that the top D loop in your spring doesn't appear to be as complete and defined as the D in a stock spring. It does not appear that your spring would seat and stay put in any orientation. As in, there is a wide enough gap between the end of the spring and the next coil that it can slide off center from the D seat in the upper mount. The spring should extend with a flatter region as far as the paint scraped area you can see in that bottom up photo.

[nightrider388]

Originally Posted by hewittca

I think these last two photos you posted are the key to the answer. You can tell from that bottom up angle that the top D loop in your spring doesn't appear to be as complete and defined as the D in a stock spring. It does not appear that your spring would seat and stay put in any orientation. As in, there is a wide enough gap between the end of the spring and the next coil that it can slide off center from the D seat in the upper mount. The spring should extend with a flatter region as far as the paint scraped area you can see in that bottom up photo.

It definitely wants to slide off. I don't think the bend is precise at the top like it should be. I just have to find out who makes a good spring that fits. Mine is a 2 inch drop Eibach.

[GR8-68]

I bought mine through summit racing and they worked out very well, also being a 2" drop

Summit drop spring

[nightrider388]

Originally Posted by GR8-68

I bought mine through summit racing and they worked out very well, also being a 2" drop

Summit drop spring

Is that the correct number? I checked with summit and it shows a 1970 c10 should be djm-cs2353-2?

[GR8-68]

Originally Posted by nightrider388

Is that the correct number? I checked with summit and it shows a 1970 c10 should be djm-cs2353-2?

Yes, sorry , you are correct I must have keyed it in wrong. That is the one I used and it fit great