Think I can run this panhard setup "upside down?"

[siggyfreud]

Hey all,

In the process of installing the panhard rod with my NoLimit kit and ran into an issue. Since I shifted the rear end back a few inches to center it, the panhard bracket barely makes contact with the drain plug area of my Boyd's tank. I feel like if I flipped the setup and shifted where it mounted to the rear to the driver's side it would work, but just wanted to see if anyone saw issues with doing so? I'd essentially move the frame bracket to the passenger side, and flip the rear end bracket upside down.

If it won't clear on the other side, what should I do? Move the tank back, or can I make the rod a few inches longer so it will clear?

Here is is making contact:

[PGSigns]

I would just make a panhard bar about 3" longer and trim the bracket about 1/4". My boyd tank is about 2" or more further back that yours also. I can get my hand between the cross brace and the tank.
Jimmy

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

I would just make a panhard bar about 3" longer and trim the bracket about 1/4". My boyd tank is about 2" or more further back that yours also. I can get my hand between the cross brace and the tank.
Jimmy

So right now there is a bracket that goes directly onto the underside of the frame. What if I just offset where that bracket goes about 2" by bolting the bracket to 1/4" steel stock, and then bolting/tacking that to the frame, thus moving the whole thing about 2" further left. I don't have 2" of thread to make the bar itself longer, and that might be easier than cutting/welding the bar.

So if this is the bracket as it is now:





This is what I could do to move it 2" further:



I could also move the tank, though when I installed it I welded nuts to the frame for easing mounting, and would need to redo that.

[Captainfab]

I think I would shorten the axle tube mount 1/4-1/2". If you move it towards the passenger side a couple inches, could there be an interference with the frame when at ride height?

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I think I would shorten the axle tube mount 1/4-1/2". If you move it towards the passenger side a couple inches, could there be an interference with the frame when at ride height?

I'm not going very low, so uncompressed there is about 6.5" between the axle tube and the frame as it sits. It will be parallel with the axle tubing, so it would only ever hit the frame if the suspension moved up ~5.5", as the frame tapers an inch by the end of where the bar would be. I could put in a 1.5" bump stop on the frame to keep that from happening I suppose if I did shift it out 2". Issue is that the bracket is long enough that wherever I put it, unless I shorten it, it would potentially contact the crossmember if the axle tube got within 1" of the frame rails.

Only problem with shortening is that I think I only clear my thick diff housing by .25-.5", so as the diff goes up and the bar rotates, it might contact the diff cover I'm thinking. The first and third picture are a little misleading on the space. From directly overhead there is a lot less room between the bar and the diff cover.

I've also noticed that I have zero room to shift the tank, unless I move one of the crossmembers too. It has about 1/8" space on both sides between the crossmembers.

Flipping it won't help, as I measured and there is slightly less space on the other size.

I might try and mock up what it would look like shifted 2" down. I have two other coilover holes I can set my ride height at if needed, 1 an inch higher, one and inch lower, not counting adjustment of the coilovers themselves.

[siggyfreud]

Photobucket is down currently. Here is how much clearance I have. There will be slightly more once the bracket is fully rotated and against the axle tube, but not much.

[PGSigns]

Post a picture of the fuel tank. It may be easily moved back a bit to help. You may be able to move the frame bracket over but you need to brace it to the top rail to get rid of any flex. Those covers are pretty thick and I have milled the back of them flat across and gained about a 1/4" of room.
Jimmy

[siggyfreud]

Here are some shots I already had of the tank. Let me know if you want me to take any other angles:

[siggyfreud]

If I shortened the diff bracket 1/2", would the bar ever come in contact with the diff cover as it rotated up? With the diff level, the bracket is down about 5*. I'm just not good enough with math to see at what point they'd intersect haha. So even though it's close, I wonder if with the 5" of movement the diff could go if it would be at risk of contacting.

[spookylynx]

you can run the track bar opposite direction if you want, wont hurt anything. I would just slowly shave that axle side bracket back until you have the clearance you need. Looks plenty of room between the bar and the diff cover.

[Captainfab]

I didn't realize that the bar was that close to your diff cover. Lengthening the rod or moving the frame mount might be the best option.

[PGSigns]

If it were mine I would be making the bar longer by as much as I could get. It does help the clearance issue and also improves the roll center.
Jimmy

[PGSigns]

One more quick question. How much did you end up moving the rear end back and what is the wheel base measurement now?
Jimmy

[spookylynx]

Saw that other pic, yeah it is really close.

You could rotate the axle bracket up and run the track bar towards the top of the diff. Possibly even bringing it above the diff. Then, make a longer bar and have a bend put in it to help clear the diff when the axle comes up. I have doe this with Jeep suspension and it works well.

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

One more quick question. How much did you end up moving the rear end back and what is the wheel base measurement now?
Jimmy

I moved the rear back ~ 2".

Stock wheelbase is supposed to be 127"

Center to center on the wheels is just under 131" now.

When I installed new front a-arms I had a machinist drill in new locating pins for the lower a-arm, to add some positive caster. But since I didn't move the upper a-arms at all I think it shifted the front wheels forward some. Supposedly I am now 4" longer in wheelbase, but I can't see where that would all come from, as I didn't move the front wheels up 2", and didn't move the back more than about 2".

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I didn't realize that the bar was that close to your diff cover. Lengthening the rod or moving the frame mount might be the best option.

Originally Posted by PGSigns

If it were mine I would be making the bar longer by as much as I could get. It does help the clearance issue and also improves the roll center.
Jimmy

I'm going to go to the local metal place and see if they have round stock that is the same diameter. If so I'll get a few inches, cut my bar, and add in about 2" (will measure what I need first) and weld it back together.

Anyone have recommendations on where I can buy 1.5" bump stops to add on the rear frame?

[siggyfreud]

Found the material I needed. I think this should solve the issue once I finish putting it back together.

[siggyfreud]

Here we go. Doing some paint removal now, but should be able to tack the bracket to the axle shortly and have it all clear. Found some bumpstops too on amazon.

[tinydb84]

Did you put a slug in there and plug weld it? I wouldn't trust it without it.

[siggyfreud]

Originally Posted by tinydb84

Did you put a slug in there and plug weld it? I wouldn't trust it without it.

No, it's just welded around the perimeter. The stock tubing is 1/8", and the new insert is 1/4" thick, as that was what was available. I thought most of the tension on the joints would be push/pull rather than shear. Think I need something inside the two tubes that hold them together? Everything else is hollow.

[tinydb84]

I am a bit overkill at times. They are push pull forces. I couldn't tell you the amount of force it sees.

I messed up my links on my watts link and had to lengthen them. I sleeved them just in case.


Maybe an engineer can respond?

[siggyfreud]

You certainly weld better then I do. I need to get better with my mig.

[Captainfab]

I would have replaced the entire tube with a longer piece. Just cut the ends off of the original tube and weld them to the new longer tube.