How well do bags handle the road?

[seanu]

I was thinking about bagging my truck, but was told the other day by a friend that he had a guy (who has bags on his truck) tell him that they don't handle real well. He said going straight they ride great, but get into some turns and it tends to float and bounce. Is this true, as I want my truck to be able to stick to the road.



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Sean
1971 SWB Frame up Project (going to be street truck)
83 C10 LWB (new daily driver)
Jacksonville, Florida

[Mike_G]

I've wondered the same thing. I want bags primarily for the added ability to tow or load down the bed of my lowered truck, but I like to be able to stick in the corners.
-Mike

[badass67]

I installed Air Ride in the rear and the front is just the shorter coils with good shocks,
it made one heck of a difference taking most of the bumpy ride away, I haven't noticed any decrease in handling, I like the fact that you can adjust how high or low you want to go. I also added a sway bar to the front when I did the disk brake change, I took all the parts from a 78 C10 I fount at the local junk yard. (not the air ride!, just the front end) I have a 67 stepside. You can see the pictures by going up to free photo-i and open the "badass67" album.
Good luck with your project
John

[Chad]

From what I understand, the issue you guys are talking about is when you have the front bags on one port and the rears on another (2 air-ports). I have been told if you get a 4 port system it handles great.

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Chad
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69 Short Fleetside
72 2wd Blazer
70 4x4 Blazer
67 Chevy(big window) Just a cab for now
64 Chevelle SS (2dr Ht)

[Slammed67]

What Chad is saying is that you can either have a 2-way setup (front bags are hooked to a common air line and valve, and the rear bags are hooked to a seperate common air line and valve) or a 4-way setup (each bag has it's own seperate line and valve). If you have the 2-way setup, then when you turn left for example, air from the right side bag will transfer to the left side bag as the weight of the truck shifts to the right. However, if you have the 4-way setup, each bag is isolated and therefore the air can't shift from side to side. Make sense?

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Current project: The "HACKstoration" 1967 GMC shortbed/fleetside, 350/700R4, air bag suspension, 18" billet wheels. Other vehicle of interest: 1957 Chevy Bel-Air 4dr hard top, 283/powerglide, lowered 3-1/2" in front and 2 inches in the rear.

Web Site: jaySpot.com AOL Screen Name: Slammed67GMC Location: Kansas City, MO

[dropped72shortbed]

the reasoe bags dont handle well is guys dont want to spend the money on a 4 way system.

most guys just plumb the air system for front and back, a 2 way system. 2 valves up front for fill and dump and 2 valves out back for fill and dump.

so basically your front two bags are sharing the same air feed and the back are sharing with each other as well.

now when you take a turn fast what happens? well your truck leans to one side compressing that bag, the air in turn rushes out to the bag on the other side. this is what makes air suspensions handle like crap.

if you dont want this to happen youll need to have a fill and dump valve for each bag, 8 valves total. this will eliminate air transfer and you will have independent control of each corner, not just front and back.

[dropped72shortbed]

oops looks like you guys already beat me to it...

[ryan68]

You guys are correct about the 2 valves to 4 thing. The air WILL transfer. Put rear bags on my dad's Z-71 and took out a large leaf to let the bags do a little more work. When they were plumbed individual, we could not go off-roading to well since the rear wouldn't articulate. Since then we went with a single inflation so the air will transfer off-road. But you guys are talking 2-wheel drive where all the weight is on the springs and you will definitely need 4 isolated corners.

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68 Chevy CST (327,TH400) 3/5 drop
71 Suburban 4x4 (350,TH350) 33's
Check out my web site!!! http://www.geocities.com/cst68chevy/

[Brad69]

So for an off-roader, you could have a 4 valve system (AKA 8 port), but add some extra plumbing to connect the 2 sides. Then you could have the 8 port ride on the street, but override it to let it articulate off-road.

Just a thought. I tend to think of complex solutions to simple problems.

[seanu]

Ok, well here is what I was thinking about..I did a quick illustration to show what I am talking about.

An air bag is rubber and so it will flex out when pressure is applied (hard cornering or bump) and will allow some of the suspension resistance to go outwards before pushing back down. But a metal spring, will only push straight back down. If I am correct in my thinking, a spring will give you more consistant grip on the road.

Am I correct? I am not saying I am correct, but that is just how I am looking at it.

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Sean
1971 SWB Frame up Project (going to be street truck)
83 C10 LWB (new daily driver)
Jacksonville, Florida

[70 Jimmy]

The A arms will prevent any lateral movement. The path of motion is exactly the same as springs. Also, 8 valves are not required. You could use (4) 3 position ones. The center position is blocked (valve will be self centering). Port A = pressure. Port B= deflate (Exaust sometimes is a different port for a different applications). There are other ways but this is the easiest. It may be the most costly due to the expense of 3 position valves. Good Luck.

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"KEEP IT DOWN!"
70 Jimmy 454 2wd
56 GMC Big Window

[SCOTI]

You are correct in saying that a steel spring would be more consistent in its rate compared to an air-spring over the same length of travel, but this is mainly because of the fact that the air-spring is adjustable. If your looking to take corners hard then go w/steel but even w/air you could handle better than stock. W/a lower center of gravity, the right shocks, & some good size sway-bars/urethane bushings you would have a good handling truck w/a decent ride but remember if you lower the air pressure in the bag you lower the effective spring rate it will have & to handle good you need some stiffness.

[bubbastrick]

What would happen if you linked the front and rear on the same side to the same air valve?
This would take away the independent front and rear adjustment, but it should give good weight transfer because when the rear squats under acceleration the front would raise even more from the transfer of air.

[70 Jimmy]

Bubba's got a point, never thought of it. However, the downside would be when you hit the brakes! Your front would dive more and your @$$ would be in the air. Makes you wonder though.

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"KEEP IT DOWN!"
70 Jimmy 454 2wd
56 GMC Big Window

[bubbastrick]

Yea, for every action there is an equal and opposite reaction. That reaction is sometimes not really what you would want. Maybe you could put travel limiters on the rear to keep it level during stops.