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04-26-2017, 02:30 PM | #1 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,728
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Replace tie rod ends, drag link?
Looking for some advice, please. There is slight wear at one end of the drag link and one tie rod end, so I'd like to replace everything before I have the front end aligned. This is on my '72 K20 and is all OEM.
Near as I can tell, I need inner and outer ends plus an adjusting sleeve for the drag link, and left & right side tie rod ends. Probably AC Delco or Moog -- your thoughts? Doesn't seem to be rocket science but I'd like to get the right parts the first time . Also, any tips for doing the job? I *might* get lucky and separate the parts with a hammer, but a pickle fork sounds like the better choice, especially considering these parts haven't been touched since the truck was built. Is any special size pickle fork needed? NAPA lists a 21/32" cheapie ($7). I appreciate any input -- thanks, guys!
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
04-26-2017, 03:25 PM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: East Tn (In the heart of the Smoky Mtns)
Posts: 1,891
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?
Go to auto zone and borrow the fork. The tie rod ends separate real easy, and the inners and outer a are the same part number. I if your adjusting sleeves aren't rusted out or seized, you can reuse them. Tie rods are an easy job on these trucks. What's tricky is finding a shop that can still align the old stuff.
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04-26-2017, 03:52 PM | #3 | ||
"I ain't nobody, dork."
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Whidbey Island, Washington
Posts: 8,971
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?
Pickle forks suck. Use a BFH. If it's not coming apart hit it harder. I haven't used a pickle fork in 30 years.
Gary
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'cuz chicks dig scars... My 1972 GMC 1500 Super Custom (Creeping Death) "long term" build thread. The Rebuild of Creeping Death after the wreck Quote:
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04-26-2017, 04:13 PM | #4 |
Moderator
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Southern Cal
Posts: 20,036
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?
X2. Just did this last week on the 68.
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1972 C/10 Cheyenne Super SWB. Restored, loaded, slammed. 1968 C/10 50th Anniversary LWB. Unrestored, stock, daily driver/work truck. RIP ElJay RIP 67ChevyRedneck RIP Grumpy Old Man RIP FleetsidePaul |
04-27-2017, 12:54 PM | #5 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,728
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?
Per the above advice, gonna try the BFH before a pickle fork.
One more thing, is antiseize on the threads a good idea or bad idea?
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
04-27-2017, 01:46 PM | #6 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Warrenton VA
Posts: 1,107
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?
antiseize on the threads at the adjuster is fine, no where else though. I use a BFH and pry on the tie rod as I'm hitting it at the joint to get it to pop.
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71 c-10 Long Bed, under the knife for a No Limit Engineering Wide Ride Chassis Pack and coil over static drop. 07 Silverado Classic 2wd 95 Camaro 427SBC/TH350 |
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