6" body drop is done

[cooperhw]

Well, the 6 " body drop (or 6" crossmember raise) is done. At least it is cut in and welded back in place. I should have the lower a-arms back on it this coming weekend so I can see it sitting on all four tires and rolling. Lots of work left to do, but the drop is in place.
I should be able to put the a-arms back in place and bolt the steering back up to where it was. The section of the frame the crossmember is located in will not know anything was ever done. I have about 3 inches of clearance under my crossmember right now, but the lower a-arms are not on yet.

[bbbc10]

wow that's overkill wouldn't feel safe driving the truck

[bbbc10]

also that not a bodydrop that call that a "z" frame

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

wow that's overkill wouldn't feel safe driving the truck

Good news. You don't have to worry about ever driving or riding in the truck.

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

also that not a bodydrop that call that a "z" frame

Oh, ok


Po-tay-toe


Poe-tat-oh

All I know is my crossmember and upper/lower control arms stayed in "exactly" the same spot in elevation and function, and the entire body (core support, cab, and bed) dropped 6 inches in elevation.

But yeah, we can call it a 6" Z frame cut if you like?

[Ben_Yeaton]

Don't think I've ever seen a Z quite this severe. It especially looks interesting versus the "small" notch in the rear that doesn't lay frame completely.

What are your other plans for the truck build?

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by Ben_Yeaton

Don't think I've ever seen a Z quite this severe. It especially looks interesting versus the "small" notch in the rear that doesn't lay frame completely.

What are your other plans for the truck build?

didn't feel I needed a taller c-notch as the frame was already lowered 6 inches. Then the c-notch.

It is on the frame.

With the body hanging over the cab mounts, it should be sitting body on the ground. How much lower can I go? Not being a smart a**, just this is my first lowering project on a C-10. I really need someone to give me a measurement as to how much lower the pinch weld is that the top of the front cab mounts. I no longer have a point of reference.
Just know, it's low. And lowered without a bunch of high dollar parts. If I need to I could notch the rearend lower, but I don't think it is needed.

As to other plans for the truck, I just bought an LS-1 motor with a T56 6 speed transmission to go into it.

[bbbc10]

No wonder it turned out like this cause its your first time dealing with anything like this....bodydrop is where you welded the 2x4 in the frame an chopped off the bottom of the frame....the front is just a 'z' an has nothing to do with a bodydrop it jus makes you lay frame.....smh

[PGSigns]

I would say you have a lot more bracing and welding to do. Going on experience from many builds over the last 40 years you may find you went to far. You still need to get a drive line in it and it needs to go in at angles that are workable. Then with all the braces gone what needs to be done to get the torsional stiffness back in the frame. You still need to deal with the location of the wheels now in the front fenders, the amount you will need to cut the fire wall and the floor, your ability to get a seat in it with the driveline up that high, can you get a gas pedal in it, is there room to move the bottom of the column up, and a host of other issues that need to be looked at when you build something like this. This is your first one and I think you need to step back and look at this a little closer.
Jimmy

[Willie Makeit]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

I would say you have a lot more bracing and welding to do. Going on experience from many builds over the last 40 years you may find you went to far. You still need to get a drive line in it and it needs to go in at angles that are workable. Then with all the braces gone what needs to be done to get the torsional stiffness back in the frame. You still need to deal with the location of the wheels now in the front fenders, the amount you will need to cut the fire wall and the floor, your ability to get a seat in it with the driveline up that high, can you get a gas pedal in it, is there room to move the bottom of the column up, and a host of other issues that need to be looked at when you build something like this. This is your first one and I think you need to step back and look at this a little closer.
Jimmy

i think you may be wasting your breathe.

[SCOTI]

I wondered about the same concerns. But, I don't have any negative feedback as Cooperhw seems to be aware there are multiple obstacles to overcome & stated when he started he will be the first to admit if he comes across something that's insurmountable.

I've been following his effort & I'm pretty sure he's trying to address basics before all the finish work of boxing the rails @ this point. He needed dimensions for the cab overhang vs top/bottom of the rail last I read.

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

I would say you have a lot more bracing and welding to do. Going on experience from many builds over the last 40 years you may find you went to far. You still need to get a drive line in it and it needs to go in at angles that are workable. Then with all the braces gone what needs to be done to get the torsional stiffness back in the frame. You still need to deal with the location of the wheels now in the front fenders, the amount you will need to cut the fire wall and the floor, your ability to get a seat in it with the driveline up that high, can you get a gas pedal in it, is there room to move the bottom of the column up, and a host of other issues that need to be looked at when you build something like this. This is your first one and I think you need to step back and look at this a little closer.
Jimmy

Well Jimmy, I agree that I do have a lot more bracing and welding to do. As far as driveline angle I plan to install a constant velocity joint like the extreme 4X4's use. The front wheels should be "exactly" in the same location they always were. firewall, floor, seat, gas pedal, are all items that I will cross that bridge when I get there. No big deal to me. This is the first slammed C-10 but a long ways away from my first build. As to stepping back, I do it every day, and start "seeing" my way towards the finish line. A lot of these issues cannot be addressed until I mount the cab and start fitting the core support. That whole area of frame up front will have to be strengthened or possibly even replaced forward of the crossmember. We'll see.

Originally Posted by Willie Makeit

i think you may be wasting your breathe.

Originally Posted by SCOTI

I wondered about the same concerns. But, I don't have any negative feedback as Cooperhw seems to be aware there are multiple obstacles to overcome & stated when he started he will be the first to admit if he comes across something that's insurmountable.

I've been following his effort & I'm pretty sure he's trying to address basics before all the finish work of boxing the rails @ this point. He needed dimensions for the cab overhang vs top/bottom of the rail last I read.

Scoti, Thanks for the non-negative feedback. I appreciate it. Give me some time here. I am swimming in un-charted waters. "Everybody says it can't be done" as far as dropping the body six inches unless you buy a $3,000 front crossmember.
Maybe they are right? Maybe not? Time will tell.
Hell, it's only a frame, right? Guy here in Arizona has 3 of them stacked up from vehicles he parted out. I can replace this one if needed for the grand total of $150. Other than time, grinding/cut off wheels, and welding wire/gas I am not out anything. Not to mention I LOVE BUILDING PROJECTS.
My second to last project was posted here in the 67-72 projects and builds section with the name Meet Homer. I took a rotten old 68 motorhome 1 ton dually and shortened the frame 60 inches and widened the step side bed to create a pretty cool truck.
Rode like a tank, but otherwise,,,,

Lastly, I like to think that we are all either "Can't Do or Can Do kind of guys.
Me, "I like to think of myself as a CAN DO" person. I overcome hurdles as they present themselves instead of scrapping my idea because something may be difficult down the road.

[95 S_Trucker]

FYI, you haven't dropped the body an inch.

A body drop consists of cutting the floor and raising it, so the rest of the body will sit lower on the frame.



You will need to do a ton of boxing/welding, and even that may not be enough. If you get in a front end collision(nobody plans on it), the frame will buckle at the Z and chop your feet off.

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

FYI, you haven't dropped the body an inch.

A body drop consists of cutting the floor and raising it, so the rest of the body will sit lower on the frame.



You will need to do a ton of boxing/welding, and even that may not be enough. If you get in a front end collision(nobody plans on it), the frame will buckle at the Z and chop your feet off.

You got me. As to the top of the frame "I have not dropped the bottom of the cab whatsoever". However, as to the bottom of the cab, I have dropped it 6 inches closer to mother earth. So, my bad. I used the wrong terminology.
Do you post all this negativity towards each and every frame that is Z cut or am I special? If, If, If,goodbye feet.

[PGSigns]

My comment on the fenders is not the location front to back it is the location up into the fenders and the stock track width. My concern is at ride height you will have an issue with the tire not clearing the fender when you turn. We used to build cars on a chassis plate/fixture and could place the body on the fixture and work out the clearance issues as we went. You can do the same thing with several pieces of 4" box tube a little wider than the truck and a couple of 20 foot sticks of 2X2" Frame it up like a ladder with 2 pieces supporting the cab and one at each wheel centerline. Level it front to back and side to side. That becomes the ground and is straight and level. Then block the frame and body at 4 1/2 to 5 " for ride height. and tack weld it in place. Now you can pull a centerline down the middle and work off of stuff you know is flat. Now you have the ability to set stuff in and test where it needs to go before doing a bunch of welding and see what problems may arise as you go.
Jimmy

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by PGSigns

My comment on the fenders is not the location front to back it is the location up into the fenders and the stock track width. My concern is at ride height you will have an issue with the tire not clearing the fender when you turn. We used to build cars on a chassis plate/fixture and could place the body on the fixture and work out the clearance issues as we went. You can do the same thing with several pieces of 4" box tube a little wider than the truck and a couple of 20 foot sticks of 2X2" Frame it up like a ladder with 2 pieces supporting the cab and one at each wheel centerline. Level it front to back and side to side. That becomes the ground and is straight and level. Then block the frame and body at 4 1/2 to 5 " for ride height. and tack weld it in place. Now you can pull a centerline down the middle and work off of stuff you know is flat. Now you have the ability to set stuff in and test where it needs to go before doing a bunch of welding and see what problems may arise as you go.
Jimmy

Thanks Jimmy. I will look into this more. I appreciate it.

[bbbc10]

he did bodydrop it by welding the 2x4 in the frame an cutting the bottom of frame off....its called a stock floor bodydrop

[tinydb84]

You have 2 inches more Z than I. Just some things I ran across that might help.

Try to lower the engine as far as you can get while still clearing the steering and rear of the trans off the ground. I ended up sectioning my cross member to do so but I kept the tunnel tight and have stock seats and carpet. You are going to be near the hood and into the firewall significantly if you don't.

I don't think your driveline angles will be an issue. My trans and rear end are about the same height at ride height.

You will need to shorten your control arms to steer and clear the hood hinges when you air out (unless you pic some good backspacing and narrower rims). You might be able to run stock spindles and be okay.

Weld a piece on the underside of your front horns to make it significantly stronger. Weld in a cross member between the front as well. Plan that our so you can still use an engine hoist.

[95 S_Trucker]

Originally Posted by cooperhw

You got me. As to the top of the frame "I have not dropped the bottom of the cab whatsoever". However, as to the bottom of the cab, I have dropped it 6 inches closer to mother earth. So, my bad. I used the wrong terminology.
Do you post all this negativity towards each and every frame that is Z cut or am I special? If, If, If,goodbye feet.

Not trying to be negative. Think of it as constructive criticism. You need to remember that you aren't the only car on the road.

[cooperhw]

Originally Posted by bbbc10

he did bodydrop it by welding the 2x4 in the frame an cutting the bottom of frame off....its called a stock floor bodydrop

I will remember that. Thanks. Learning the "Lingo".

Originally Posted by tinydb84

You have 2 inches more Z than I. Just some things I ran across that might help.

Try to lower the engine as far as you can get while still clearing the steering and rear of the trans off the ground. I ended up sectioning my cross member to do so but I kept the tunnel tight and have stock seats and carpet. You are going to be near the hood and into the firewall significantly if you don't.

I don't think your driveline angles will be an issue. My trans and rear end are about the same height at ride height.

You will need to shorten your control arms to steer and clear the hood hinges when you air out (unless you pic some good backspacing and narrower rims). You might be able to run stock spindles and be okay.

Weld a piece on the underside of your front horns to make it significantly stronger. Weld in a cross member between the front as well. Plan that our so you can still use an engine hoist.

I do appreciate the insight. I figure the LS motor will be a little shorter and I have no qualms about raising the tunnel if needed. I may end up needing a 2 inch cowl hood. Not opposed to that. As to shortening the control arms, I will have to check that interference out at a later date. I am really not planning to actually drive it much if at all aired out. Maybe straight line on the way outta the show draggin butt. I definitely plan to add a bunch more crossmembers and probably end up re-doing some of it as needed. My actual goal to begin with was to "raise the crossmember" 6 inches and C-notch the back. I feel I have accomplished that. Now keep trucking forward.

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

Not trying to be negative. Think of it as constructive criticism. You need to remember that you aren't the only car on the road.

ok

quick peak at my last 3 builds