Check my homework

[clarsen]

I am collecting parts for the 62 Fleetside longbed that i purchased over the winter. Burned up the search function on this site and others trying to figure out the best combination of parts to suit my needs. Before I get to deep I need to know if I am headed in the right direction. I would hate to waste a bunch of time and money on a stupid mistake or bad info.

So my goal for the truck is to have good all around driver on the highway and in the city (practical) with more HP than is reasonably necessary (fun)

Suspension - Already picked up a complete 84 front end to take care of the disc/power brakes and power steering.
Motor - Father in law (dirt track racer) is building a 383 4-500 HP
Transmission - 1982-88 S10 World Class T5 for the OD, stick location (bench seat) and mechanical speedo
Rear end - 1965-70 12 bolt for ease of install, lug pattern to match front, track width and strength

Considering the long wheelbase and relatively light ass, do you see any issues with this set up. I was originally concerned about everything holding up behind the stroker, especially the trans but I can't imagine it will hook up that hard. I have no intentions of ever tossing on a set of sticky tires and hitting the strip. Automatics are not an option, i enjoy banging gears to much to give that up

Any feed back is appreciated and if i made a mistake on the years or there is a better OEM option, I'd love to hear about it.

Thanks
Chad

[AcampoDave]

I am also questioning the T5 behind that motor. If you're getting it on the cheap, then run it and break it, but otherwise I'd invest in a stronger tranny. You said it yourself, "I enjoy banging gears....." I wouldn't bang a T5, I'd just shift it gently from gear to gear.

[clarsen]

Do you have any recommendations for an alternative? I am trying to avoid a 4 speed to keep from taching out at highway speeds. The Tremec TKO500 is out of my price range at the moment.

[TJ's Chevy]

The TKO500 and 600 are one of the only quick and smooth shifting 5 speeds that handle high torque that I know of. Also USA built. I am using a TKO600 behind a hopped up 292 I6. The T5 will blow into pieces with that much power so I'd stay clear of it. Tremec actually seems to be the cheapest when purchasing a New 5 speed. You might get lucky and find a used 5 speed. You could always do an NV4500, but that's a truck 5 speed. And it would require a hydraulic clutch.

[duallyjams]

S10 5 speed is cheep for OD but you can not have fun with it or it will go KAAA BOOM .

[chevy_mike]

I agree, GM wouldn't even put the T5 behind the 245 HP TPI engine because it wouldn't handle the power.

If you want an OD trans, a TKO 500 or 600 or a T56 are your best options, given the power level you're talking.

[vince1]

72 and up rearend will give you 5 bolt if you are shopping anyway. They are 1 1/2" wider and IMO look better with the stock wheels. I don't know about the panhard bar lugs on the frame though.

[clarsen]

Yes, I want the 5x5 to match the 84 front, not 6 lug. Thought they switched in 65. I can live with it being 1.5" wider but will the trailing arms still line up on a 72+? What years were they the same before they increased in width again?

[chevy_mike]

The axle housings are the same from '71-'87 but only the '71-'72 had the trailing arm mounting pads (for ones setup for trailing arm). '73 and later will work but you have to cut off the old leaf pads and weld the correct trailing arm pads on. '70 and down are the same width but are 6 lug.

I did this with a '74 C10 axle. I think I got the trailing arm pads from ECE. You do have to setup the pinion angle when doing this.



The other option is getting replacement 5 lug axles for your current housing. I did this with my current '65 panel. Used Tom's Axles to do this.

[vince1]

If you have to weld on trailing arm pads anyway maybe there would be some benefit in getting a newer assembly that has disc brakes. Are there any 10 bolts out there with disc brakes?

What kind of panhard bar brackets are on your 62 frame? I know the 64 diff housing has the gusset welded on the RH axle tube and doing the same to a newer housing might work out better in yours but I don't pretend to know anything about the 62.

[jocko]

but hang onto the T5 - and save it for the future when you decide to just drive and enjoy (it will happen!) OR, sell it on the board, SOMEone will want that thing.... I put one in my 66 and loved it. Good trans for cruising with a stock small block or a 6 and mild mannered shifting. Completely understand wanting to bang the gears, not knocking it at all. Been there done that. Ha. But I did enjoy my clark kent-like cruising and just getting from point a to pint b.

[lumpy63]

If you decide to go with the Tremec , highly recommended I have two tko, 600s and I beat the crap out of em , both behind stout 400 sbc's You need to think about what seats your going to use because if you use a bench seat you will most likely need to get a Tremec with the shifter in the center position to clear the seat. It costs a little extra for that shifter set up.

[TJ's Chevy]

Also on the Tremec if you get one, be sure to run AC delco trans oil in it for break in and after. Spendy stuff, but it's a spendy trans.

[clarsen]

The panhard bar does attach to the axle tube. I don't have any issues with welding on brackets. Just need to make sure I get the correct axle to start out with.
Haven purchased a transmission yet. The T5 was just part of my initial plan
I looked in to using a T56 but the shifter is to far back. Have to keep the bench seat so I can use the ol lady or dog as an armrest!

[AcampoDave]

I too want to bang gears, and currently run a Saginaw 4 speed (rather weak and getting weaker) I have considered a Tremec but also other options. I took some time to research gear spreads and launch ratios for several trannys and how those ratios would pair with various rear end ratios. Richmond gear still makes the Super T10 in various ratios and you can still buy a new Mumcie too. The thing is, they lack overdrive. Therefore you need to decide what rear end ratio you want to use in order to attain your final drive rpm. If you want to roll down the highway, you need a tall gear which necessitates a wider gearspread on the tranny. As the gear spread widens, the first gear gets lower (numerically higher) in order to maintain a proper launch ratio. A lower first gear is a weaker first gear due to the increased leverage on the trans. (My saginaw is like that with a 2.76 rear end.) Ultimately, I have decided to
use a new Muncie M22Z which has a tighter spread than my ol'Saggie.
Consequently it will also have a shallower (numerically lower) 1st gear so I will be swapping to a 3.08 rear in order to maintain a spirited launch ratio. I will wind a bit higher on the highway but it wont be screaming. Also, the tighter gear spread of the Muncie M22Z will provide a more "car like" shifting feel. Plus I am using a "period correct" part which is important to me and...who doesn't love the whine of a Muncie.

[Captainfab]

If you do go with a '63-'72 truck 12 bolt, it will not simply bolt into your '62. The '60-'62 trailing arm mounts are farther apart. The trailing arm mounts will need to be moved or simply added to a '73-'87 differential. There should be no problem cutting the panhard bar mount off of your Eaton HO32/33 and welding it to your new differential, providing it is welded properly. I do make trailing arm mounts for 5 different differentials

I agree on not using a T5 behind a 383. Especially one that is putting out 4-500hp.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by AcampoDave

I too want to bang gears, and currently run a Saginaw 4 speed (rather weak and getting weaker) I have considered a Tremec but also other options. I took some time to research gear spreads and launch ratios for several trannys and how those ratios would pair with various rear end ratios. Richmond gear still makes the Super T10 in various ratios and you can still buy a new Mumcie too. The thing is, they lack overdrive. Therefore you need to decide what rear end ratio you want to use in order to attain your final drive rpm. If you want to roll down the highway, you need a tall gear which necessitates a wider gearspread on the tranny. As the gear spread widens, the first gear gets lower (numerically higher) in order to maintain a proper launch ratio. A lower first gear is a weaker first gear due to the increased leverage on the trans. (My saginaw is like that with a 2.76 rear end.) Ultimately, I have decided to
use a new Muncie M22Z which has a tighter spread than my ol'Saggie.
Consequently it will also have a shallower (numerically lower) 1st gear so I will be swapping to a 3.08 rear in order to maintain a spirited launch ratio. I will wind a bit higher on the highway but it wont be screaming. Also, the tighter gear spread of the Muncie M22Z will provide a more "car like" shifting feel. Plus I am using a "period correct" part which is important to me and...who doesn't love the whine of a Muncie.

The tremec is also closely ratioed, especially the tko600....which is why I got that over the 500. Plus I was able to get the .082 od. With a 3.73 ratio and 30 inch tires I'll be sitting at 2200 rpm at 65 according to the gearing calculator.

[AcampoDave]

Here is a launch ratio calculator http://www.5speedtransmissions.com/startlineratio.html and just to give the o.p a contrast to TJ's overdrive final rpm with a 3.73 rear, my old tach also shows 65mph at 2200 rpm with a 28" tire. But, I need the 2.76 axle to get there without overdrive and quite frankly that rear gear is a bit too much for my warmed up 283. In the mountains I spend a lot of time in 3rd. When I swapped to a 3.08 rear end the final drive was pretty sweet in the hills, but the wide spread on my Saginaw tranny was so noticeable it became impractical around town. First gear was so low I was either starting out in 2nd or going from 1st to 3rd. It was readily apparent that my transmission was designed to be in a light car with highway gears. So the 2.76 went back in and the research began.