New guy with a 69

[zachste]

Hey guys first post here, figured I better start as I've already been using the forum to research possible front crank seal leaks ��
Lowered a bunch how I like em. I believe it's roughly 4.5-5/6-7




Here's the leak that popped up after a pretty miserable highway drive at 3k rpm lol. Wiped it all up while I was under it to put in a new speedo cable, took it for a drive and looked like a tiny leak from the bottom of the front crank seal. But no more thrown on that inner fender.

[70cst]

Hey zachste

to the forums and from New Madison Ohio.

Luv your

[CG]

This truck has a lot of stuff I normally don't care for. But this one really pulls it off ... I really like it. Welcome to the board.

['68OrangeSunshine]

I like the color.

[FRCvette]

Welcome from another from Cincinnati, Ohio. Good looking truck. What area of Cincy are you in? I am on the east side in Batavia.

[Boog]

Hey that one works. Welcome aboard. Tell us more about it.

[panhead59]

You may know this already but when you change the seal on the timing cover for the front of the crankshaft, make sure the harmonic balencer doesn't have a groove in it. If it does, they make a sleeve to "cover" the groove. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. Nice truck. Worse case you will need new balencer to go with a new seal.

[weq92f]

Nice color and stance!

[zachste]

Originally Posted by FRCvette

Welcome from another from Cincinnati, Ohio. Good looking truck. What area of Cincy are you in? I am on the east side in Batavia.

I'm on the west side in Bridgetown.

Originally Posted by panhead59

You may know this already but when you change the seal on the timing cover for the front of the crankshaft, make sure the harmonic balencer doesn't have a groove in it. If it does, they make a sleeve to "cover" the groove. Sometimes that works, sometimes it doesn't. Nice truck. Worse case you will need new balencer to go with a new seal.

Yea I had read that. Was hoping it'd be awhile before I had to do anything on this truck as the motor only has about 2500 miles on it and that I could just drive it and enjoy it. But apparently that isn't going to happen lol.
I was hoping it was just some loose clamps from this, but they weren't really all that loose. New to v8's, as I'm a long time VW guy.

[zachste]

After I wiped everything down and took it for a short drive, it looked like some very light seepage in the red circled area. This is supposedly a new crate motor, with everything either new or rebuilt on the truck. I just picked it up about a week ago.

[hdff]

Welcome to the forum from the great state of Texas! My granddaughter lives east if Cincinnati in Amelia

[Boog]

Well it they reused the harmonic damper it could be the leak. The timing cover seal will wear a groove into the damper and a new one won't properly seal. You can buy a wear ring to slip over the damper to make it all smooth again.
Old VW guy eh? So you are used to oil leaks. I had one too.

[zachste]

Originally Posted by Boog

Well it they reused the harmonic damper it could be the leak. The timing cover seal will wear a groove into the damper and a new one won't properly seal. You can buy a wear ring to slip over the damper to make it all smooth again.
Old VW guy eh? So you are used to oil leaks. I had one too.

So this sleeve?
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/f...make/chevrolet
I was mostly into early watercooled VW's but still used to oil leaks nonetheless!

[Money_pit]

does it look like it's leaking oil from a bolt hole in the front passenger side of the block. There's a threaded hole in the lower corner of the block used to tighten a bolt against the fuel pump push rod when replacing pump. Maybe bolt fell out? If you have to put a new bolt in it use a very short bolt as a long one will rub fuel pump rod. Should be a 3/8 bolt. Just an idea

[zachste]

Originally Posted by Money_pit

does it look like it's leaking oil from a bolt hole in the front passenger side of the block. There's a threaded hole in the lower corner of the block used to tighten a bolt against the fuel pump push rod when replacing pump. Maybe bolt fell out? If you have to put a new bolt in it use a very short bolt as a long one will rub fuel pump rod. Should be a 3/8 bolt. Just an idea

I'll look, I'm letting it run right now and will get back underneath and see.

[Boog]

One just like that.
Check on that bolt hole too. Some people leave it out and it will leak some though it's not under pressure there.

[Zone47]

Nice truck, I like the color!

I'm up around Akron .... we should have an all Ohio meet sometime.

As far as the leak, don't worry, old trucks are supposed to leak. If it didn't leak, that's when I'd worry.

[zachste]

Originally Posted by Money_pit

does it look like it's leaking oil from a bolt hole in the front passenger side of the block. There's a threaded hole in the lower corner of the block used to tighten a bolt against the fuel pump push rod when replacing pump. Maybe bolt fell out? If you have to put a new bolt in it use a very short bolt as a long one will rub fuel pump rod. Should be a 3/8 bolt. Just an idea

No missing bolts from there.

Originally Posted by Boog

One just like that.
Check on that bolt hole too. Some people leave it out and it will leak some though it's not under pressure there.

Looks like it's coming from that timing cover seal /harmonic balancer seal and pooling up right on the lip of the timing cover there. Could that be the cause of throwing engine up onto the passenger fender, and all those coolant horse and such on the passenger side?

Originally Posted by Zone47

Nice truck, I like the color!

I'm up around Akron .... we should have an all Ohio meet sometime.

As far as the leak, don't worry, old trucks are supposed to leak. If it didn't leak, that's when I'd worry.

It's not a terrible leak, but the truck is so clean, and I'm slightly OCD, so I'd like to keep it free from oil being thrown everywhere. But I'd definitely be in for an Ohio meet sometime!

[Boog]

Sure looks like it. Yes the damper will sling oil onto the fuel pump, etc and the fan will spread it out everywhere.

[Money_pit]

Your best bet will be to drop the pan and put a one piece oil pan gasket on it. Simple fix

[zachste]

Originally Posted by Money_pit

Your best bet will be to drop the pan and put a one piece oil pan gasket on it. Simple fix

I don't think it's coming from the pan though. Looks like it's seeping through that timing cover/harmonic balancer gasket. What makes you think it would be the pan gasket?
Posted via Mobile Device

[zachste]

So now the question. Buy a new balancer or just try the sleeve repair? Hmmm

[FRCvette]

[QUOTE=Zone47;7958921]... we should have an all Ohio meet sometime.

[/QUOTE

I'm in.

[panhead59]

JUst pull the balencer and look for a groove on the shaft. That's the easiest way to tell. If there is a groove, that's your leak!!! I'd try the sleeve, it's cheap. I put one on my 66 GTO and it stopped the leak for a month or so. Then the groove appeared in the repair sleeve. Guess the groove was too wide/deep for the sleeve. It's real thin metal and just slips on or lightly tap onto the balencer shaft. It's worth a try if u find a groove. Balencers are $200+/-.

[HO455]

If it is the balancer that is leaking and it is grooved another fix is to install a new seal but don't install it as deep in the housing so the lip and grove arel not aligned. Most seals are installed by bottoming the seal in the housing. By not bottoming the seal in the housing many times you can gain 1/8" of offset on the lip and the groove. I done it at least ten times over the years. (Pontiacs are bad for this as the balancer is not on a taper so it always sits in the same place on the crank.) Not every housing will have enough space to do this so measure things up and see.
Oh and nice looking truck. Welcome aboard.