Question reference the door locks....

[LockDoc]

I received this as a PM but I wanted to post it as a new thread so others could use the info.

The passenger side operates as normal when locking the door from the outside, but when locking the driver's side from the outside the key will lock the door and then when I turn the key counter clockwise then remove the key the lock will "unlock". There is no way to lock the driver's door from the outside.

Do I have something installed wrong?

I'm betting that the small coil spring in the area that the arrow is pointing to is broken. It is an over center spring that keeps the lever in the locked or unlocked position. The problem is the locking lever is riveted to the latch frame so you can't get to it to replace it. If that is the problem you have to replace the latch.

LockDoc

[truckster]

Leon, you had me for a second. I read the title and thought, "LockDoc asking a question about locks? Has the world gone upside-down?"

I'm glad to see it was just you sharing your extensive knowledge, as always.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by truckster

Leon, you had me for a second. I read the title and thought, "LockDoc asking a question about locks? Has the world gone upside-down?"

I'm glad to see it was just you sharing your extensive knowledge, as always.

....

Thanks,
LockDoc

[randy500]

Great post LocKDoc. Another member had this same problem and I helped him fix it.

The picture above has an arrow pointing to the lock pawl, you should note it is separate from the latch pawl which is at the bottom. The latch pawl on the driver side wears and the latch surface on the gear (the tooth) also wears which allows the gear to rotate to the point where the lock pawl will no longer engage the "tooth" on the gear, when this happens the fix is a new latch.

You can check this by putting pressure on the latch gear with your finger as if the gear was holding the door closed and try to engage the inside or outside lock, if it wont engage its worn out.
The latch pawl and lock pawl engage the same surface but different "teeth", the lock pawl does not wear because it doesn't hold the door closed, eventually the latch pawl and lock pawl are no longer in synch due to worn surfaces on the latch pawl and the engagement "teeth".

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by randy500

Great post LocKDoc. Another member had this same problem and I helped him fix it.

The picture above has an arrow pointing to the lock pawl, you should note it is separate from the latch pawl which is at the bottom. The latch pawl on the driver side wears and the latch surface on the gear (the tooth) also wears which allows the gear to rotate to the point where the lock pawl will no longer engage the "tooth" on the gear, when this happens the fix is a new latch.

You can check this by putting pressure on the latch gear with your finger as if the gear was holding the door closed and try to engage the inside or outside lock, if it wont engage its worn out.
The latch pawl and lock pawl engage the same surface but different "teeth", the lock pawl does not wear because it doesn't hold the door closed, eventually the latch pawl and lock pawl are no longer in synch due to worn surfaces on the latch pawl and the engagement "teeth".

Thanks Randy.

Yes, if the door won’t lock at all the worn parts could cause that, but in this case the lock will lock but it won’t stay locked, That is usually caused by the broken over center spring.

The arrow is pointing to the locking lever in the door latch picture above. The lock pawl is located on the back of the lock cylinder and is held on by a small clip.

LockDoc

[slikside]

Subscribed. Good info.

[El Dorado Jim]

Thanks Leon

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by El Dorado Jim

Thanks Leon

No problem.

LockDoc

[KQQL IT]

The 68 wants me to push the door in to lock it.