Leaf spring to bump stop dimensions

[suspectdon]

Hi all,

Looking for some help with spring replacement.

I've been doing some searching but haven't found much on leaf spring / spring block to bump stop dimensions.

I have unknown leaf springs right now, 3 leafs upfront and 5 leafs rear.

Front:
3 leafs
Measurements from top of u-bolt block to tip of bump stop is 2.125"

Rear:
5 leafs
And a 3/4" block and the u-bolt nuts are maxed out to the end of the u-bolt threads.
Measurements from top of axle tube to tip of bump stop is 4"

I want to replace what I have because the leafs are shifting and my bushings are shot...really bad...really really bad...so while I'm doing the springs I'll switch to ORD shackles and bushings.

If anyone knows of better measurements to give to help I can take pictures and measurements.

From what I've seen I think I might have a sagging 2" lift in it now.

Thank you,
Richard
Pictures until I get more can be found in my tag line link.
Actually OD of tire is 32 1/2"

[suspectdon]

...

[suspectdon]

[suspectdon]

Also, my rear diff pinion seal is toast....

[1rippen6]

check your spid I think heavy fronts spring were 3 ply standard were 2 ply. They look like originals to me.

[suspectdon]

You are correct sir, HD springs.

So... I should decide on stock or 2".

For myself and others to reference, would other people post thier dimensions?

Do other people have the same dimensions as I do with stock HD front springs?

[1rippen6]

If you would want to sell your fronts I would be interested.

[suspectdon]

Originally Posted by 1rippen6

If you would want to sell your fronts I would be interested.

Is it possible to rebuild the packs? I may just do that??? I think my problems are a combo of shocks/shackle bushing/miss aligned spring packs. I've replaced all rod ends, ball joints, wheel bearings, hubs, steering box, and steering stabilizer and the pitman arm too.

Right now the trick rattles bad and wanders. Sometimes I'll start driving with the steering wheel straight and get home and the steering wheel will be 90% off.....

[suspectdon]

And the steering stabilizer was slipping around so I tacked it in place.

[1rippen6]

Yes they are rebuildable, spring eye bushing and even center pins. Shocks can make a big difference but I would get a front end alignment if you haven't already.

[hemi43]

I'll post my dimensions tomorrow when I get under the truck. You can do your own front end alignment with a measuring tape, because that's the only adjustment there is.The caster and camber are built into the axle. With 33" tires I run 3/16" toe in. As I've mentioned on previous posts, caster shims make a huge difference. I have around 6 1/2 degrees of caster, and the truck is very stable. I got my springs re arched when I restored the truck, but I'm now thinking of replacing them with at least 3 leafs. Under heavy braking, the original 2 leaf springs tend to twist and causes the truck to veer slightly to the right. This is because the front axle is also twisting and cause the wheel to turn to the right a bit.

Another thing for you to check is around the steering box area. This area is prone to cracking at the box mounting holes. Have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth real hard and take a look if there's any box to frame movement. My truck only had 45000 miles on it, and it was cracked.

[suspectdon]

Thank you Hemi, dimensions are always helpful, I've found lots of dims for the body and door openings, but limited in suspension.

Went out and checked, the output shaft has a lot of wobble/play and the steering box clicked at one point while turning the wheel. The frame looks solid, has en extra plate welding in that area already.

This is weird since this is a rebuilt steering box that i put on back just before I did the body work in 2011, the box has less than 1,500 miles on it.

I'll search the web / forum for box adjustment and rebuild guides.

Another thing that is odd is the amount of play that can happen between the steering out put shaft and the hub, lots of play can be absorbed in the pitman and drag link to the hub. Does anyone know of a better set up for this?
I hear about cross over steering for trucks that are lifted over 4", but can this fit/help a stock height truck?

All ball joints, end links, etc.. have less than 1,500 miles and area ll fully greased.

Thank you,
Richard

[suspectdon]

Adjusted steering box last night took it for a drive. Much better with less than a 1/4 turn.
Have not check out out shaft play. Check tonight or tomorrow.

Got a quote on spring pack rebuilding, $125-150 a pack. Re-arch where needed with new bushing's, pins, clips, paint, and sliders. But I'm not sure if my pack has sliders.might see about having them leave out the bushings and going with ORD setup, if not going off road is it worth doing the greasable bushings?

New shocks later this week.

[suspectdon]

checked the steering box out put shaft play, still have some, but is less.
is some out put shaft play common?

This is not in a twisting motion, but rather a forward and back motion as the steering drag link is put under compression and tensions loading while both wheels are on the ground.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by suspectdon

checked the steering box out put shaft play, still have some, but is less.
is some out put shaft play common?

This is not in a twisting motion, but rather a forward and back motion as the steering drag link is put under compression and tensions loading while both wheels are on the ground.

Output shaft uses a Torrington bearing(needles) and should have no play. Installing a new bearing may help, but if the bearing surface on the shaft is worn, you will need a new one.

[suspectdon]

Originally Posted by hemi43

Output shaft uses a Torrington bearing(needles) and should have no play. Installing a new bearing may help, but if the bearing surface on the shaft is worn, you will need a new one.

Looks like I'll have to drive the needle bearing out from the top down. With the sector shaft and cover removed.

Do I have to loosen the input shaft before removing the cover and sector shaft?

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by suspectdon

Looks like I'll have to drive the needle bearing out from the top down. With the sector shaft and cover removed.

Do I have to loosen the input shaft before removing the cover and sector shaft?

Just rebuild the whole box and be done with it. RockAuto sells a complete rebuild kit for cheap. I did mine and I'm totally happy with it.

[kwmech]

Unless you really know what you are doing, stop messing with the steering box adjustments. If you have a lot of play in the box, it is probably time for a rebuilt unit. Make sure the box is not moving on the frame itself, mounting bolts should be grade 8 and torqued down to 75 lbs. Check the rag joint where the column attaches. The factory springs can be rebuilt by a spring shop unless you want to lift the vehicle for a larger tire than 33. My 4x tow truck came with a 4 leaf spring pack. You may look into that when getting the springs rebuilt.

[suspectdon]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Unless you really know what you are doing, stop messing with the steering box adjustments. If you have a lot of play in the box, it is probably time for a rebuilt unit. Make sure the box is not moving on the frame itself, mounting bolts should be grade 8 and torqued down to 75 lbs. Check the rag joint where the column attaches. The factory springs can be rebuilt by a spring shop unless you want to lift the vehicle for a larger tire than 33. My 4x tow truck came with a 4 leaf spring pack. You may look into that when getting the springs rebuilt.

found a local shop that can do the spring packs, $125-$150. Kramer in Inver Grove Heights, MN http://www.kremerservices.net/servic...ension-repair/

I know my spring bushings are shot (front and rear of all spring packs), but the steering box, ball joints, rod ends, rag joint, steering stabilizer are all new (less than 1500 miles). Frame is solid, no movement at all, bolts are torqued, but they are factory bolts. Pitman arm has new grade 8 bolt and is torque with no play.


as for adjustment, this is how I've been doing it.
I raised the front axle up on stands and adjusted the slack slightly then checked for binding and repeated until it was "just right", then backed it of slightly as to not to have gone to far. This is how I've done it with all my other vehicles, if there is a better way or a way that I can do this with more precision on the bench or in car I'd like to know, I'll do a search of the site too.

I've never removed the sector shaft for the purpose of replacing the needle bearing. was hoping it was an on the truck replacement.