Full length braided hose?

['70_402]

Can I run full length braided fuel line from my rear tank to the ls motor? I've read that some people like to use hard line, some use all braid. I have no experience with any of this....

[jocko]

You can, but I'd run a hard line anyway. Uncle GM knew what he was doing.

[MikeB]

A problem with braided hose is it's still rubber inside, and rubber will eventually deteriorate, even though the braid still looks like new. Also, hose is susceptible to being damaged by road debris.

If you do use hose, run it as high off the ground as possible and inside the frame rails. And keep it away from exhaust pipes and mufflers.

[67 chevelle]

run hard line from the regulator , quick connect with 3/8 compression fitting up front so you only need 18 inches or so of braid -6 ,COST , braid is expensive

['70_402]

I'm getting a boyds tank, so i think i'm just gonna go ahead and get the FI install kit from Pro Performance.

[boraxman]

Originally Posted by '70_402

I'm getting a boyds tank, so i think i'm just gonna go ahead and get the FI install kit from Pro Performance.

I was thinking about getting that kit for mine...I would like to see someone post up an actual parts list (with #s) to see if I can source what I need for cheaper...I already have some stuff...

[skinnan]

what is a good source for hard line?

[CountofMonteCarlo84]

If you run a braided line, make sure it has an inner teflon line inside and not rubber. Ask me how I know... like MikeB said above.

[rx78nt1alex]

You can go to any auto parts store and buy a coil of tubing, 3/8ths is good. I think they sell it in 20-25 foot lengths. Or if you know someone in industrial instrumentation, you can get a hold of 3/8ths stainless steel tubing.

The auto parts tubing is soft and is good for the flaring tool. SS is harder, but with a bit of effort, you can flare it. Or just use swagelok tubing unions and ferrules.

[skinnan]

Apparently you can get 25' rolls of tubing on Amazon or there is a really great site for this kind of stuff called Inline Tube http://www.inlinetube.com

['70_402]

Originally Posted by boraxman

I was thinking about getting that kit for mine...I would like to see someone post up an actual parts list (with #s) to see if I can source what I need for cheaper...I already have some stuff...

I asked what brand fittings and hose they used and it's XRP stuff.. i priced a few things, and realized it's worth it to get the kit... you might be able to save a few bucks, but Pro Performance gave me a good deal on the package with the EFI tank.

[HotRodfuelhose]

Originally Posted by MikeB

A problem with braided hose is it's still rubber inside, and rubber will eventually deteriorate, even though the braid still looks like new. Also, hose is susceptible to being damaged by road debris.

If you do use hose, run it as high off the ground as possible and inside the frame rails. And keep it away from exhaust pipes and mufflers.

The PTFE stuff we sell will not break down and is very chemical resistant. I ran it from my tank to FItech. www.hotrodfuelhose.com

[crakarjax]

Don't be afraid to buy cheap hose if it's fully specified, it's a commodity item... this Proclassic II look alike fits the bill for $62 with numerous fittings included https://goo.gl/ZEDJRb

[MikeB]

Originally Posted by HotRodfuelhose

The PTFE stuff we sell will not break down and is very chemical resistant. I ran it from my tank to FItech. www.hotrodfuelhose.com

Good to know.

[davepl]

I've just converted two vehicles from -10AN (or -8AN) to hard line. In both cases it was for odor in the garage. Both had steel braided rubber line that was about 10 years old.

Unless you use the new materials out there that are supposed to be ethanol safe, or use teflon (PTFE), it will smell in the garage eventually as the modern gasolines seep through the rubber

Unfortunately one of them was on a high-performance truck with two tanks and two pumps and the crazy tank switch w/ return provision was $700! But I digress...

[CountofMonteCarlo84]

Originally Posted by davepl

I've just converted two vehicles from -10AN (or -8AN) to hard line. In both cases it was for odor in the garage. Both had steel braided rubber line that was about 10 years old.

Unless you use the new materials out there that are supposed to be ethanol safe, or use teflon (PTFE), it will smell in the garage eventually as the modern gasolines seep through the rubber

Unfortunately one of them was on a high-performance truck with two tanks and two pumps and the crazy tank switch w/ return provision was $700! But I digress...

This is accurate. I had the same issue and went with Teflon.

[truckdude239]

i used th ptfe braided hose and its been 3 years so far no problems

[Killer Bee]

steel braid cons;

• abrasive to surroundings, very abrasive
• vulnerable to various forms of deterioration
• vulnerable to squeeze, crush, kinks, etc.
• above conditions even to slight degree can create turbulent flow
• bulging/collapsing, pressure variances
• 'flappers' can give you a fit troubleshooting
• bulkier cross section per ID tube size
• difficult to run clean sight lines over long distances
• very little heat rejection
• expensive

steel braid pros;

• easy installation

rigid line cons;

• more difficult to install

rigid line pros;

• negligible deterioration factor
• less vulnerable to physical damage
• better laminar flow
• stable pressure
• good heat rejection
• thinner cross section per ID tube size
• flame and spark resistant
• clean installation sight lines

not comparing external corrosion factors as that entirely depends on the material specified, operating environment, and maintenance.. there are various CRES options for both.. I ran .500 AL in my 550hp gto, it was beautiful

steel braid hoses [genuine, not fake tubing socks] is heartier than soft hose alone, like an armor plating but still shouldn't be routed anywhere you normally wouldn't route typical soft hose..

I've seen steel braid compressor discharge hose [teflon lined] eat COMPLETELY though rocker covers on N14s and 60srs.. I mean down to an actual oil leak.. be weary of tossing a spool of steel braid down the frame rail without regard to everything it comes into contact with.. there, said my piece on that..

as mentioned above, manufacturing engineers have determined the which is best for typical automotive application.. most run rigid everywhere possible and only use soft hose for connections between moving parts..

good luck on your project!

[crakarjax]

By 'best' you mean lowest cost with an acceptable mean time between failures right?

[Killer Bee]

the manufactured failure philosophy may apply to glove box doors, but not so much on critical systems, modern times anyways..

auto, truck, and equipment manufacturers are not interested in getting sued out of existence..

so by best I mean with regards to safety, performance, design life, warranty and other liabilities..

run or recommend what you choose, but I've had my hands on enough fuel lines to reach the moon and one thing is explicitly common between just about every one of them..

good luck y'all!

[indymachinist]

Summit sells aluminum tube in various diameters and lengths suitable to run from the back to the front. Perfectly good way to go.

I do not support soft line all the way from the tank to the engine, even if it is proper fuel safe line. (Which most of it isn't)

[GASoline71]

I just bent my own 3/8" hard line out of NiCop and mounted it along the frame rail. Bends easily with a good tubing bender and is easy to "tweak" if you need a slight bend to make fittings thread in easily.

Gary

[In The Ten Ring]

You don't need braided hose! That's just a sales gimmick. Run rubber hose from tank to carb......done.

And you also get to enjoy the engine fire that burns your truck to the ground.

Run as much hard line as you can, you may use braided hose between joints if you must but keep those lengths short. That is what I was told on here back when I went through this issue a couple of years ago.

[mike16]

rubber hose is good for 2 years.

steel braided hose does not last longer but the steel braided outer surface protects from abrasion that might cause hose failure.

some are guarrenteed for life... but dont bet your life on that.

mount hose below any electrical items

most racing organisations limit the number of and length of flexible hazardous fluid lines permited to be used on vehicles