292 1 Barrel Carburetor Question

[Bisblue]

Hey Folks,
My 72 has been running great all summer here in super hot Vegas. I bought it in July. As it has gotten cooler, I've noticed I had to rev it up for a little bit to keep it from stalling out.

Now that our first cold front has come through I've had to crank it for a while, and it's taking way longer to warm up and not stall out.

I've read a bit and think it might be the choke held open, and I should fix it and adjust the idle up. I've tons of diesel work, some small engine and almost no automotive carb work.

So, I figured I'd ask exactly what is going on in this picture (choke held open?) I've got a manual choke cable on the dash.

I've got a donor 350 I'm going to put in soon, so I'm just pouring in more oil and keeping the 292 on the road so I can drive it.

Thanks in advance.

[Steeveedee]

Can you verify that the choke plate moves when you pull the knob out?

[LockDoc]

-
Are you pushing the accelerator pedal to the floor and hold it while you pull the choke knob out? That is what sets the high idle on the manual choke carbs. After it starts push the choke knob in about half way until it warms up.

LockDoc

[Bisblue]

I'll try that LocDoc I hadn't heard that, is their normally something other than a zip tie linking the choke and vacuum?

[bill3rail]

WTF? Zip tie? You need to remove air cleaner to determine what your choke is doing. Two people would be best, one starting and the other watching the linkage.

Bill

['68OrangeSunshine]

My '68 C/10 w/292 L6 came with a manual choke. Did later models use an automatic choke? The L6s also had a heat riser on the exhaust manifold that, thru a bi-metal coil linkage, would actuate once the engine was at operating temperature [180-195*F].
I can't be more specific, since I converted to an Offy 4-Bbl intake and Clifford headers in 1978 -- scrapping the Monojet and cast iron manifolds, so I don't remember much.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by Bisblue

I'll try that LocDoc I hadn't heard that, is their normally something other than a zip tie linking the choke and vacuum?

If I remember correctly there should be a short "U" shaped metal linkage between the choke pull-off and the lever.

LockDoc

[Bisblue]

The choke cable is in fact pulling the wrong direction to "close" the butterfly and the zip tie to the vaccum also holds it open. Anyone have a picture of what a functioning set up is supposed to look like?

I flipped the buttefly closed while cold and it started first turn of the key. Now what to mount the cable to to be able to open it from the cab and not get it out and do it by hand in the morning

[Bowler1]

Not sure if this will help at all as I see several things different on your carb this is a 64 c10 292 automatic ort me know if it helps at all. Hate to hear you are giving up on the 292. This one has over 300 k miles and only needed new rings and bearings.

[Bisblue]

Originally Posted by Bowler1

Not sure if this will help at all as I see several things different on your carb this is a 64 c10 292 automatic ort me know if it helps at all. Hate to hear you are giving up on the 292. This one has over 300 k miles and only needed new rings and bearings.

Not sure the picture came through.

I'll probably keep it around, maybe throw it back in from time to time

[Bowler1]

Well pics didn't go will try again

[Bisblue]

Looks like I need to fashion a bracket for the choke cable to attach to for sure.

[geezer#99]

Since it's likely originally a divorced choke, why not get it working instead.

[Bisblue]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Since it's likely originally a divorced choke, why not get it working instead.

Geezer, help me out divorced choke? I'm new to carbs, mostly diesel stuff previously.

I cut the zip tie, flipped the butterfly by hand and it started cold first crank.

[LockDoc]

-
I have 3 292's out in the shed. I will run out and snap some close up pictures in a little bit.

LockDoc

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by Bisblue

Geezer, help me out divorced choke? I'm new to carbs, mostly diesel stuff previously.

I cut the zip tie, flipped the butterfly by hand and it started cold first crank.

THere's a pic in this link. Post #11.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=416118
Your carb may be different but the principle is the same.
A choke stove attached to the exhaust manifold has a bimetal coil in it. As the coil heats up it opens your choke via the linkage rod.
The choke pull off pot is there to pull the choke plate open enough(on start up) to allow the motor to run.
You can buy most of what you need to fix yours or buy a different choke plate rod with a manual choke linkage or if you really like you can adapt an electric choke to yours.

Maybe give us a couple more pics of yours on the manifold. Your choke stove might still be there.

[LockDoc]

-
Here are pictures of what two of mine look like. The third one I have is missing some parts. I think both of these are earlier than your carb though. The first two pictures are the same carb and the second two pictures are the same carb.....

LockDoc

[Bisblue]

photos were takien while holding a baby

[LockDoc]

-
Flipped the pictures....

Looks like you need all of the choke linkage. You can't post a "want to buy" unless you are a Premium member but if you see what you need on the parts board you can buy it.

LockDoc

[geezer#99]

Looks like you'll need a choke stove. I think it mounts where those two holes are below the carb. THen you'll need a choke linkage rod from the stove and another linkage for the choke pull off. That will work if your heat riser is operable.
Might be better to go manual choke but then you'll need the correct choke plate croos shaft for your carb along with a bracket and cable.
Another option is an electric choke conversion.
Look in here for all that stuff.
https://quadrajetparts.com/monojet-c...c-240_257.html

[Bisblue]

Thanks for the help fellas.
I might just reach under and flip the choke in the morning. Since I'm on a maximum budget build and getting two free 350s