My '67 Chevy C20 "Camper Special" Build

[DJ_Baar]

I'm starting a thread with more details on my build. I traded my '74 Harley custom built "Joker" for this truck and some cash 4 July 2016. (Health problems have me going from 2 wheels to 3+.)

DJ

[DJ_Baar]

I got right into cleaning it up and then started with wet sanding outside to stabilize the "patina" which I plan to keep.

[DJ_Baar]

Then cleaned & treated steel long bed that was in pretty good shape with bed liner.

[DJ_Baar]

Then got under the truck starting with the rear brakes and learning what an Eaton H052 differential was. Took apart, cleaned, & rebuilt. Found following link and help from this forum truly made a difference. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRhkYQsAKI4

[DJ_Baar]

Big task was taking the '71 GMC front disk brakes I got with truck and using them on this '67 to replace the old drum power brakes. Took a whole lotta trial and error with a few things and found the bracket for the power steering assist broken and brazed. Got a replacement for that from Todd Rusk. Here's a few pictures of the new rebuilt complete front clip to include CPP power disk brakes.

[DJ_Baar]

Next I got the bed off with a little help from my engine lift and a few friends. And repaired the drive shaft, cut-off and shortened exhaust to avoid damage again (may reroute later), and general clean-up and paint of frame and under cab. Lost a few pictures with PC dying, but salvaged many from other sources saved to.

[DJ_Baar]

Next started on rust. Thought only passenger rocker area - WRONG. Outer floor pan and both front and rear posts needed MAJOR HELP.

[DJ_Baar]

Here is the repaired area.

[DJ_Baar]

Driver's side was not so bad - or so I thought - rust & repairs.

[DJ_Baar]

Then the holes I found under the cowl on Driver's side. Explained a lot - just had silicone stuffed in holes. Found as I removed old insulation from firewall. Before and after top and bottom. A bear to weld in there.

[alsriv2]

I really liked my old '67 GMC. Seeing yours and the good work you are doing makes me want to replace it sooner than later. I wish I had never sold it.

[68Gold/white]

Job well done!!!
Glad to see the front disc brakes, man what a difference those make!!!
Carry on!!!

[DJ_Baar]

Thank you both for your replies. I need to get some more pictures taken this weekend on more rust repair with inner fenders and radiator support. Final rust repair will be the rain gutters and some work on door skins.
I had a three month delay because pulled-away to do repair and upgrade to Wife's condo (had before we got together). Renter did some questionable work, then wife wanted all carpet out for wood flooring and stairs. Lastly laminate flooring in bath, kitchen, and laundry replaced with ceramic tile. Basically worked this project with a friend from Memorial Day to Labor Day this year, but looks great and should sell. Here's a couple pix of handy work. If not wife may still rent/lease it.
But now I am back to "wrenchin" on my "ol'Blue" and feels GREAT! Can't wait to be driver Blue, but patience and getting done right is the key.

DJ

[DJ_Baar]

Got some serious rust damage done to radiator support and inner fenders welded with some homemade patches and a little POR15 epoxy putty. This stuff really works. Surprisingly it was not the battery on passenger side but windshield washer bottle that leaked and rusted 2/3 of inner fender to radiator support away. Sorry didn't get pictures of before I repaired. I like to use rubberized undercoat then paint what will be exposed to road grime --- tire side of inner fenders.

I really like POR15 epoxy putty. When they say you can drill and tap it they are not kidding! I used it to fix an anchor nut I could not get to when fixing Driver side cab floor to front pillar at bottom (earlier).

Note: had extra weight in truck bed to help keep it on jack stands Using yard supplies for my wife like top soil, sand, and potting soil. Just had hurricane Nate near here, lucky for us it moved about 90 miles east to Biloxi. Nice for sitting inner fenders on as I painted top and bottom after storm passed NOLA.

DJ

[DJ_Baar]

Can anyone use factory original Factory HVA/C from '67 Chevy C20?

I pulled it yesterday from my truck. Plan to use Vintage Air Gen IV with electronic controls. Like the cleaner firewall and eliminating the old cable vacuum system.

Also have original controls.

Rebuilding all this will cost almost as much as the Vintage Air.

[DJ_Baar]

Got 350 SBC engine & TURBO 400 trans out of Blue Saturday with a little assistance from Friend, Jason Dufrene. Confirmed block & head #s & yes it is a 4 bolt main 350, suspect 80's crate motor.

Back to working cab for now (drip rails next) and start figuring what to do and who to do what to engine and transmission.

DJ

[builtbyKane]

Excellent job bringing the old truck back to good health.

[68Gold/white]

LOL, Hecho en anywhere tells you all you need to know...

The block will be thinner cast than the original, 2 or 4 bolts on mains is meaningless, on those engines.
If block is not cracked or damaged in any way, it could go .030 and still be a good engine. Not sure what those heads are. The old large chamber O.E. heads are not that bad for performance, The 441 041 487 and others are good heads.

[Orange67]

As a fellow Custom Camper owner, I'm in for this build. It looks great, man.

[DJ_Baar]

Thanks for the feedback Guys.

Finished cleaning firewall & remaining front frame bits ... ready for paint. After dinner worked on breaking down engine some more ... spark-plugs definitely had some oil fouling ... also found blue RTV on parts of transmission to include tail housing ... both due this rebuild. Getting 'er done, slow but sure. Also a picture of under dash painted end of last weekend. A good rust reformer primer, then simple Rustoleum, & some bed coat on floor last.

DJ

[DJ_Baar]

Finished firewall & frame, Used POR-15 Primer and chassis black on front frame. Firewall is RUST-O-LEUM Rust Reformer Primer and simply black top coat. Then got cab mounts changed. I had to clean old bushings, remove rust, & paint, but new bolts & isolation rubber is all new. Cab is now leveled-out again like new! You can see what I took out that was worn-out & rusted.

DJ

[68Gold/white]

Another job well done!!!
Have you evaluated the engine completely yet?
Did you use new rubber bushings? or the plastic ones?

[DJ_Baar]

Engine is put to side for now on stand, tho I put the Edelbrock Torquer manifold (2500 to 6500 RPM power band) on Ebay & got a great price on Edelbrock Performer EPS (idle to 5500 RPM). Building for lower end & torque as it will be a daily driver, but keeping eye looking at other items needed there....

I used the hard rubber replacement bushings. I believe in quality over cheap and then get best price.

Cab still needs rain gutters replaced, roof and dash painted, then new windshield, before replacing wiring I bought (American Auto Wire upgrade), and doors need a little TLC too. Then back to engine and have TH400 rebuilt too.

Slow but steady process. Keeps me busy and out of trouble (wife works every other weekend at local Urgent Care).

DJ

[CG]

Coming along very quickly. What's the end look you are going for? I really like those mirrors, are they a stock set with convex added to the bottom?

[DJ_Baar]

Basically when done, "Daily Driver." All new or rebuilt inside and down, but patina paint outside.

Yes I believe those are the original mirrors w/convex at bottom. I need to fix extra holes drilled and add "stiffener" behind to help support mirrors and clean em up. I liked the visibility they gave me when driving!

DJ