Wood Bed ? - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

**68Custom** · 10-28-2003, 03:46 PM

Well, im making progress on finishing this wood bed on my truck. I'm putting White Oak in place of the original wood and im needing to know what you guys used as a polyurethane. I've only found MINWAX's Helmsman. It protects against weather, UV and one other one that i can't remember. Anyway, if you guys could provide some info to help out id appreciate! Thanks!

Aaron

72MARIO · 10-28-2003, 03:55 PM

I was told to use a Marine polyurethane. It is supposto be the best.

Class of 69 · 10-28-2003, 09:00 PM

A marine grade spar varnish is supposed to be better than urethane for UV resistance. Haven't gotten that far with my floor yet to get the facts.

**68Custom** · 10-28-2003, 11:40 PM

My dad was mentioning something to me about if i go with a marine grade, it might not allow the wood to breathe as well as it should. He was thinking along the lines of a sealant from water and UV but still allow it the air. I guess he was thinking of something like Thompson's Water Seal but not quite. I don't know, ive done some searching on the net but haven't found much and im not surprised. Most of what i have found in the stores isn't going to work as it will just end up peeling off in a year leaving me in a fit of rage. Oh well, back to the search engines!

Aaron

palallin · 10-29-2003, 01:22 PM

One more reason to mourn the loss of Penta to over-regulation. . . .

68speedalert · 10-29-2003, 02:07 PM

From what I was able to learn, no matter what finish you use, you'll have to redo it maybe once a year. Unless...............it never sits outside in the sun, or has any bad weather hit it.

Otherwords, it sucks if you plan to drive it.

Steve

Hooter · 10-29-2003, 03:50 PM

I stained my oak boards, and every year I just re oil, might be better to polyurathane them, one of my board has gone a bit punky on the edge, oh well

**68Custom** · 10-29-2003, 04:20 PM

Sounds like im pioneering into this woodbed issue... seems not many people know for fact what works best. I must be too young to know what Penta is... never heard of it. Good stuff was it? Oh well ill keep ya posted

Aaron

TreverSlyFox · 10-29-2003, 06:23 PM

Ok, guess I'm gona have to date myself here. THE BEST wood treatment for wood that's out in the weather is:

25% Terpentine and 75% Boiled Lindseed Oil

This was used on wood Floors, Axe, Shovel and Hoe handles as well as Military Gun Stocks, Corral Fences and Gates. If you add OX blood to it you have barn paint, that's where red barns came from.

We've used it on every wood floor we've had and in 6-8 months it'll turn Pine as hard as Oak. Easy to use, every 4-6 months just mop some more on and let it set for an hour. Whatever doesn't soak in just wipe off. It won't give you a high shine so if that's what your looking for go the polyurthane route. But if your just looking for a durable finish Terp and BLO can't be beat.

bucket · 10-29-2003, 07:10 PM

i'm thinking about trying "trex" which is a wood manufactured from recycled wood and plastics. not sure if i can rip to size though. probably will cost a fortune.

Class of 69 · 10-29-2003, 07:19 PM

According to Bruce Horkey at Wood and Parts, one of the premier wood floor replacement vendors, they supply a finish kit with each floor. It consists of "Old Masters" brand Tung Oil Spar Varnish, reduced with Nel-Thin-Ol, to give better flow properties. They sell the finish in a complete kit, with everything needed to prep the wood, and apply the finish. Phone # 507-831-5625 Fax# 507-831-0280 or e-mail woodandparts@yahoo.com Be sure to ask for the catalog, as it has all their products, and prices in it.

slam33 · 10-29-2003, 09:55 PM

Trex is great, I use it all the time for decks but your going to be doing a lot of resawing to get it to thinkness. You don't want to run it thru a planer, planer knifes don't like the plastic. At 3/4 thickness the stuff is short on stiffness. It will have too mush bend in it.

Guy Brooks · 10-29-2003, 10:27 PM

Ripped my floor out today I'm going back with cedar to match my custom interior treated with boiled lindseed oil .

68speedalert · 10-30-2003, 12:07 AM

We have bought plastic sheeting for Numberoneson's truck. It is a sand finished black product that comes 3/4 inch in thickness. We will rip it and rout the edges to fit. Unless i have figured wrong, we will get all we need out of a 4x8 sheet.

I have a friend that owns a truck bed manufactuerer that got it for us. We think that a red shortstep with stainless strips will look real good.

Steve

LostMy65 · 10-24-2017, 04:33 PM

Bump

darrellyates · 10-25-2017, 08:02 AM

Mar-K manufactures a lot of stuff for trucks. They have an excellent write up on their website detailing different wood finishes. I recommend a complete reading before making a choice.

Additionally, this has been gone over many times on this forum. Run a search here, you will find the subject several times.

An interesting option is KBS Diamond Clear. It's a clear epoxy based finish, very similar to POR 15 in performance, but extremely glossy, UV stable, and clear. Stain the wood, then either brush it on or spray it on. Thins out and flows very nice. High gloss, looks like automotive clear.

Again, I recommend checking the Mar-K website and doing your own research.

trkfrk · 10-25-2017, 08:12 AM

Here is the stuff I used and I apply it every 6 months.

**special-K** · 10-25-2017, 08:53 AM

I believe Helmsman poly is marine grade. I figure that's why it's called helmsman.

I personally don't like the idea of any hard finish like poly on a bed floor. You want something that "gets into" the wood, not lay on top like paint on steel. One scratch and the seal is broken. Only way to fix is sand out and re-coat. I use oils on exterior wood. Good old linseed oil and mineral spirits or turpentine is a great protector. I have also thinned down paint to a stain consistency, then a clear preservative oil or linseed/turp

OregonNed · 10-25-2017, 10:59 AM

We used Epiphanes - wonderful product..

racerop · 10-25-2017, 05:22 PM

The first 14 posts were from 2003 but good
Information

LostMy65 · 10-25-2017, 05:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by racerop

The first 14 posts were from 2003 but good
Information

Yes, I bumped the thread because it was a question in another thread.

PanelDeland · 10-25-2017, 10:02 PM

For a glossy show bed, I would look into the marine grade epoxy. The type they use on Cedar strip canoes. For a truck I was going to drive, BLO and thinner so it would soak in better. I would probably use a 25% BLO/75 thinner for first coat and then a 75%/25% second coat and allow it to soak a while before wiping.

10-28-2003, 03:46 PM	#1
68Custom Hammer On! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 473	Wood Bed ? Well, im making progress on finishing this wood bed on my truck. I'm putting White Oak in place of the original wood and im needing to know what you guys used as a polyurethane. I've only found MINWAX's Helmsman. It protects against weather, UV and one other one that i can't remember. Anyway, if you guys could provide some info to help out id appreciate! Thanks! Aaron __________________ 1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed

10-28-2003, 03:55 PM	#2
72MARIO Registered User Join Date: Nov 2000 Location: Huntsville Ontario Canada Posts: 4,051	I was told to use a Marine polyurethane. It is supposto be the best. __________________ 1968 Suburban numbers matching all original truck now equipped with 6.0/4L80 on Accuair http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=625017 1967 C/20 6.0/4L80 Roofing Truck 1990 V2500 Suburban "Plow Truck" 2005 TAHOE DD

10-28-2003, 09:00 PM	#3
Class of 69 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Stillwater MN Posts: 1,166	A marine grade spar varnish is supposed to be better than urethane for UV resistance. Haven't gotten that far with my floor yet to get the facts. __________________ 69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still..

10-28-2003, 11:40 PM	#4
68Custom Hammer On! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 473	My dad was mentioning something to me about if i go with a marine grade, it might not allow the wood to breathe as well as it should. He was thinking along the lines of a sealant from water and UV but still allow it the air. I guess he was thinking of something like Thompson's Water Seal but not quite. I don't know, ive done some searching on the net but haven't found much and im not surprised. Most of what i have found in the stores isn't going to work as it will just end up peeling off in a year leaving me in a fit of rage. Oh well, back to the search engines! Aaron __________________ 1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed

10-29-2003, 01:22 PM	#5
palallin Registered User Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: St. James, MO Posts: 1,238	One more reason to mourn the loss of Penta to over-regulation. . . . __________________ '69 Longstep K-10: 327/SM465/T-221/Closed Knuckle Dana44/12-bolt.

10-29-2003, 02:07 PM	#6
68speedalert Semi-Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Washington, MO Posts: 390	From what I was able to learn, no matter what finish you use, you'll have to redo it maybe once a year. Unless...............it never sits outside in the sun, or has any bad weather hit it. Otherwords, it sucks if you plan to drive it. Steve __________________ '68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab

10-29-2003, 03:50 PM	#7
Hooter My other Love Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Castlegar B.C. Canada Posts: 4,085	I stained my oak boards, and every year I just re oil, might be better to polyurathane them, one of my board has gone a bit punky on the edge, oh well __________________ Castlegar B.C.The great white North (Canada Eh!) Hooter_5@hotmail.com First generation Monte Carlo club pictures of my life

10-29-2003, 04:20 PM	#8
68Custom Hammer On! Join Date: Jul 2001 Location: Olathe, KS Posts: 473	Sounds like im pioneering into this woodbed issue... seems not many people know for fact what works best. I must be too young to know what Penta is... never heard of it. Good stuff was it? Oh well ill keep ya posted Aaron __________________ 1968 C20 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed 1968 K10 Inline 6 250 SM465 4 speed

10-29-2003, 06:23 PM	#9
TreverSlyFox Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Houston, Missouri Posts: 17	Ok, guess I'm gona have to date myself here. THE BEST wood treatment for wood that's out in the weather is: 25% Terpentine and 75% Boiled Lindseed Oil This was used on wood Floors, Axe, Shovel and Hoe handles as well as Military Gun Stocks, Corral Fences and Gates. If you add OX blood to it you have barn paint, that's where red barns came from. We've used it on every wood floor we've had and in 6-8 months it'll turn Pine as hard as Oak. Easy to use, every 4-6 months just mop some more on and let it set for an hour. Whatever doesn't soak in just wipe off. It won't give you a high shine so if that's what your looking for go the polyurthane route. But if your just looking for a durable finish Terp and BLO can't be beat.

10-29-2003, 07:10 PM	#10
bucket Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Shawnee, KS Posts: 923	i'm thinking about trying "trex" which is a wood manufactured from recycled wood and plastics. not sure if i can rip to size though. probably will cost a fortune.

10-29-2003, 07:19 PM	#11
Class of 69 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Stillwater MN Posts: 1,166	According to Bruce Horkey at Wood and Parts, one of the premier wood floor replacement vendors, they supply a finish kit with each floor. It consists of "Old Masters" brand Tung Oil Spar Varnish, reduced with Nel-Thin-Ol, to give better flow properties. They sell the finish in a complete kit, with everything needed to prep the wood, and apply the finish. Phone # 507-831-5625 Fax# 507-831-0280 or e-mail woodandparts@yahoo.com Be sure to ask for the catalog, as it has all their products, and prices in it. __________________ 69 GMC K10 ..some restoration required....still..

10-29-2003, 09:55 PM	#12
slam33 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2001 Location: Long Beach, Ca Posts: 1,432	Trex is great, I use it all the time for decks but your going to be doing a lot of resawing to get it to thinkness. You don't want to run it thru a planer, planer knifes don't like the plastic. At 3/4 thickness the stuff is short on stiffness. It will have too mush bend in it. __________________ 71 LWB 350/350still working on it but it's going tp be sweet. www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html " TARGET=_blank>http://www.geocities.com/stevemau/slam33page.html?1004806705410 </A>

10-29-2003, 10:27 PM	#13
Guy Brooks Registered User Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Alvarado TX Posts: 16	Ripped my floor out today I'm going back with cedar to match my custom interior treated with boiled lindseed oil .

10-30-2003, 12:07 AM	#14
68speedalert Semi-Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: Washington, MO Posts: 390	We have bought plastic sheeting for Numberoneson's truck. It is a sand finished black product that comes 3/4 inch in thickness. We will rip it and rout the edges to fit. Unless i have figured wrong, we will get all we need out of a 4x8 sheet. I have a friend that owns a truck bed manufactuerer that got it for us. We think that a red shortstep with stainless strips will look real good. Steve __________________ '68 50th Anniversery LWB Custom Fleetside, '77 305 v-8, turbo 350, factory speed alert (still works), '71 drivetrain w/front discs. Some call it ugly yellow, others call it Ochre '83 Jeep CJ-7, <80,000 miles, original owner '04 Chevy Suburban, 4x4, 2500, 6.0 ltr, Predator Diablo programmer '95 GMC K1500 Extended cab

10-24-2017, 04:33 PM	#15
LostMy65 But Found Her 25yrs Later! Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Oregon City, Oregon Posts: 10,530	Re: Wood Bed ? Bump __________________ I lost my 65 - Found it 25 years later: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=426650 66 C20 Service Truck: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=428035



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10-25-2017, 08:02 AM	#16
darrellyates Registered User Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Gallatin TN Posts: 376	Re: Wood Bed ? Mar-K manufactures a lot of stuff for trucks. They have an excellent write up on their website detailing different wood finishes. I recommend a complete reading before making a choice. Additionally, this has been gone over many times on this forum. Run a search here, you will find the subject several times. An interesting option is KBS Diamond Clear. It's a clear epoxy based finish, very similar to POR 15 in performance, but extremely glossy, UV stable, and clear. Stain the wood, then either brush it on or spray it on. Thins out and flows very nice. High gloss, looks like automotive clear. Again, I recommend checking the Mar-K website and doing your own research.

10-25-2017, 08:12 AM	#17
trkfrk Registered User Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 969	Re: Wood Bed ? Here is the stuff I used and I apply it every 6 months. Attached Images __________________ Mark 1972 C10 SWB LS1/T56 6 speed trans/4:56 posi with 5.5"-7" static drop/Boss 338 Wheels 18"x20" My build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=424609. My first start up http://youtu.be/R899YQ1OcjU

10-25-2017, 08:53 AM	#18
special-K Special Order Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: Mt Airy, MD Posts: 85,851	Re: Wood Bed ? I believe Helmsman poly is marine grade. I figure that's why it's called helmsman. I personally don't like the idea of any hard finish like poly on a bed floor. You want something that "gets into" the wood, not lay on top like paint on steel. One scratch and the seal is broken. Only way to fix is sand out and re-coat. I use oils on exterior wood. Good old linseed oil and mineral spirits or turpentine is a great protector. I have also thinned down paint to a stain consistency, then a clear preservative oil or linseed/turp __________________ "BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~

10-25-2017, 10:59 AM	#19
OregonNed Registered User Join Date: Dec 2012 Location: Vancouver, Washington Posts: 1,644	Re: Wood Bed ? We used Epiphanes - wonderful product.. __________________ 1968 Chevrolet C/10 LWB - 327, TH350 - 4/5 Drop

10-25-2017, 05:22 PM	#20
racerop Registered User Join Date: Jul 2015 Location: Laurel Springs, NJ Posts: 94	Re: Wood Bed ? The first 14 posts were from 2003 but good Information

10-25-2017, 10:02 PM	#22
PanelDeland I am a Referee of life. Join Date: Jun 2000 Location: Greensboro N.C. Posts: 13,992	Re: Wood Bed ? For a glossy show bed, I would look into the marine grade epoxy. The type they use on Cedar strip canoes. For a truck I was going to drive, BLO and thinner so it would soak in better. I would probably use a 25% BLO/75 thinner for first coat and then a 75%/25% second coat and allow it to soak a while before wiping. __________________ The 47-present Chevrolet and GMC Truck Message Board Network,it's owners,moderators,members,and associates of any type should not be held responsible for my opinion. You can't fix stupid,not even with duct tape. "My appearance is due to the fact that "GOD" does punish you for having too much fun!" Barrett-Jackson has perfected alchemy,they make rust into gold! "You can lead a horse to water but you can't saddle a duck" "Cleverly disguised as a 'Responsible Adult' "Sometimes your Knight in shining armor is just a retard in tinfoil"

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