Sway Bar mount

[Swedchevy67]

Just mount my sway bar from CPP.
Had to drill 2 new holes for fittment.
I´m verry pleased with my work, but I need to know if the end link
on the lower control arms is in right order? And how hard I must tighten.

[RodnRudy]

Your end link assembly is wrong. Here is the order of assembly.
From the bottom to the top. Bolt goes up from under the lower control arm, flat washer, poly bushing with lip facing control arm, then on top of control arm poly bushing with lip facing down, flat washer, metal spacer, flat washer, poly bushing with lip facing up through the bottom of sway bar end, poly bushing with lip facing down on top of sway bar end, flat washer and nyloc nut. Hope this helps. Sorry I don't have a pic to show you. Phil

[weq92f]

Agree it doesn't look right. The sway bar should be near the tip of the end link. On my '67, there is no end link, the bar is clamped tight to the arm with a bushing and clamp, just like you have there on the frame rail.

Hth,

-klb

[Swedchevy67]

Originally Posted by RodnRudy

Your end link assembly is wrong. Here is the order of assembly.
From the bottom to the top. Bolt goes up from under the lower control arm, flat washer, poly bushing with lip facing control arm, then on top of control arm poly bushing with lip facing down, flat washer, metal spacer, flat washer, poly bushing with lip facing up through the bottom of sway bar end, poly bushing with lip facing down on top of sway bar end, flat washer and nyloc nut. Hope this helps. Sorry I don't have a pic to show you. Phil

Thank good for this forum. Some corrections to do tomorrow.

[Swedchevy67]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Agree it doesn't look right. The sway bar should be near the tip of the end link. On my '67, there is no end link, the bar is clamped tight to the arm with a bushing and clamp, just like you have there on the frame rail.

Hth,

-klb

As you can see, the end link is "tilted"? The mounting holes on the bar didn't exactly measure the holes on the arm. Is that normal with aftermarket proceeds?

[Swedchevy67]

Originally Posted by weq92f

Agree it doesn't look right. The sway bar should be near the tip of the end link. On my '67, there is no end link, the bar is clamped tight to the arm with a bushing and clamp, just like you have there on the frame rail.

Hth,

-klb

As you can see, the end link is "tilted"? The mounting holes on the bar didn't exactly measure the holes on the arm. Is that normal with aftermarket proceeds?

[demian5]

Here is how they should be assembled (if this doesn't make sense, you need someone to come help you):

[Swedchevy67]

Originally Posted by demian5

Here is how they should be assembled (if this doesn't make sense, you need someone to come help you):

Great picture. Thanks

[x_fifty_one]

I'll assume you have cut springs to lower the front end. During my install, I once again was reminded how beneficial drop spindles are. Check for any touches between your sway bar and steering components after a short drive.

[Swedchevy67]

Originally Posted by x_fifty_one

I'll assume you have cut springs to lower the front end. During my install, I once again was reminded how beneficial drop spindles are. Check for any touches between your sway bar and steering components after a short drive.

Yes. That's why I mounted it like that in the first place. But at the same time it didn't feel right.

[Swedchevy67]

I didn't cut the spring

[Swedchevy67]

The former owner must have. 1 or 2 inches. I can't tell.

[Swedchevy67]

Do you think I could use a shorter bolt, and skip one of the poly bushing?

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Swedchevy67

Do you think I could use a shorter bolt, and skip one of the poly bushing?

No and No. Just install it like it's supposed to be and be done with it. You have the lowered sway bar brackets on the truck. Just fix the end links.

I'm going to stick my neck out and say that you used the existing holes in the control arms from the original style sway bar mounts. They do not mount the end links straight up and down, you will need to drill different holes as you will see or they will be in a bind the entire time. But, I would just fix the bushing order and see how it is.

Good luck, when common sense falls into place and it all gets done post some pictures.

[Pro299]

All good advice. I'm using the same bar on a stock height. The end links aren't designed to be used with the link mounted directly to the arm. The hole you are using is one of two for mounting a strap bracket that used a bar with a straight end. The CPP bar has a hole on the end to use the end links instead. When using links the way you are, it's best to use an L-bracket which mounts to the front of the lower arm. There may already be a hole there, as there was on my truck, but the CPP bar was shorter, so I had to drill new holes about three inches closer together. The CPP bar was actually sized to work with their tubular lower arm which already has the end link bracket to match the bar. Hope this helps.

[Swedchevy67]

Originally Posted by demian5

No and No. Just install it like it's supposed to be and be done with it. You have the lowered sway bar brackets on the truck. Just fix the end links.

I'm going to stick my neck out and say that you used the existing holes in the control arms from the original style sway bar mounts. They do not mount the end links straight up and down, you will need to drill different holes as you will see or they will be in a bind the entire time. But, I would just fix the bushing order and see how it is.

Good luck, when common sense falls into place and it all gets done post some pictures.

Thanks!

[Swedchevy67]

Originally Posted by RodnRudy

Your end link assembly is wrong. Here is the order of assembly.
From the bottom to the top. Bolt goes up from under the lower control arm, flat washer, poly bushing with lip facing control arm, then on top of control arm poly bushing with lip facing down, flat washer, metal spacer, flat washer, poly bushing with lip facing up through the bottom of sway bar end, poly bushing with lip facing down on top of sway bar end, flat washer and nyloc nut. Hope this helps. Sorry I don't have a pic to show you. Phil

Change in right order now. Much better. Could use the original holes on the sway bar.
One question:How hard do I tighten the end link? Because of the poly busching it seems to be no stop?

[PowerdbyChevy79]

gotta use a L- bracket for these end links...
CPP sells these brackets

[Swedchevy67]

Show me how

[weq92f]

Looking better! Not far away now. I'm not familiar with the L-Bracket from CPP but it probably fixes your orientation due to the end link being mounted in a hole meant for a "strap" type "hold-down" like so...

[Swedchevy67]

[QUOTE=weq92f;8053685]Looking better! Not far away now. I'm not familiar with the L-Bracket from CPP but it probably fixes your orientation due to the end link being mounted in a hole meant for a "strap" type "hold-down" like so

So you don't think this will work?

[weq92f]

Yeah, it looks like it might be fine, but with those end links, you want to install them correctly. PowerdbyChevy79 seems to be on to something about using the bracket to correctly position the end link in the arm.

The holes you're using weren't meant for use with the end link piece, but rather were meant for use with the hold down strap type mount. I suspect the bracket will prevent you from having to drill through the arm for proper placement of your end link. Give CPP tech line a call about the bracket or hit their site for it.

As for the tightening, you may find a torque spec on CPP site or elsewhere. If not, just tighten real snug but don't crush the rubber bushings at either end of the end link.

Hth,

-klb

[demian5]

Originally Posted by PowerdbyChevy79

gotta use a L- bracket for these end links...
CPP sells these brackets

Doesn't look like it... Here is what he has. Only comes with the lowered mount bracket on the frame as you can see.

http://www.classicperform.com/Store/...ck/6372SBK.htm

[Swedchevy67]

That's the one I bought

[NoNeck]

As for the tightening, you may find a torque spec on CPP site or elsewhere. If not, just tighten real snug but don't crush the rubber bushings at either end of the end link.

You should tighten the end link bolts just enough to compress the rubber bushings out flush with the edge of the gold washers but no more.

POP