10-10-2017, 12:09 PM | #1 |
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Drag Link Replacement
Hey guys, I picked up new drag link ends and adjustment sleeve for my truck. It has some play in the steering that I thought I would try and fix. After having a buddy turn the steering wheel while I looked for play, I found the drag link ends were shot. Tie rod ends will need replaced soon too. And if possible, tighten the gear box slightly.
Anyway, my question is how should I go about replacing the drag links? Measure to overall length of the old ones and count the number of threads? My steering wheel is slight off center to the left so I would like to fix that as well, so would I need to bring the ends closer just a bit? Also will I need an alignment after replacing just the drag link setup? Any help is appreciated thanks.
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1978 GMC K25 1984 Chevy Scottsdale K10 built 350 4"lift - SOLD |
10-10-2017, 01:00 PM | #2 |
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Re: Drag Link Replacement
on 4wd push/pull steering the drag link only centers the wheel . so assemble the new stuff close and road test it and adjust as needed to get steering wheel stright .
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77-k30lb BIG truck build . 87-k30lb budget beater build . 85-k30lb the plow machine build . 85-c10sb summer fun toy . ----------------------------- HOLLEY SNIPER efi = worst case of p.i.t.a i ever had . EDELBROCK pro flo 4 = best deal going so far . love my setup works great. |
10-10-2017, 01:37 PM | #3 |
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Re: Drag Link Replacement
Alright cool thanks. I'm going to attempt to start working on it tonight.
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1978 GMC K25 1984 Chevy Scottsdale K10 built 350 4"lift - SOLD |
10-10-2017, 09:00 PM | #4 |
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Re: Drag Link Replacement
Alright got the new setup in. Does anyone know what the torque specs are? I don't have a manual to reference to.
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1978 GMC K25 1984 Chevy Scottsdale K10 built 350 4"lift - SOLD |
10-10-2017, 09:43 PM | #5 |
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Re: Drag Link Replacement
I just removed and replaced mine. I torqued the nuts as far as they would go,then backed them off just enough to insert to he cotter pin.
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10-10-2017, 09:50 PM | #6 | |
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Re: Drag Link Replacement
Quote:
there in is the problem . always go tight till cotter pin hole lines up do NOT back off nut to align cotter pin hole. but wheel bearing adjustment like this is different.
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77-k30lb BIG truck build . 87-k30lb budget beater build . 85-k30lb the plow machine build . 85-c10sb summer fun toy . ----------------------------- HOLLEY SNIPER efi = worst case of p.i.t.a i ever had . EDELBROCK pro flo 4 = best deal going so far . love my setup works great. |
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10-10-2017, 09:54 PM | #7 |
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Re: Drag Link Replacement
Makes sense. I admit, I only had to back it off a few degrees at most. Thanks for that insight.
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10-10-2017, 11:03 PM | #8 |
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Re: Drag Link Replacement
I actually found the specs. 40-45ft/lbs. I set it at 43 then tightened it a bit more to get the cotter pin in. Seemed to be nice and tight. Went for a quick drive and adjusted the adjustment sleeve and tightens it down, and the steering wheel is nice and straight.
Still a little play, going to try and tighten the gear box a bit since there is some play in that. Then tie rod ends and ball joints.
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1978 GMC K25 1984 Chevy Scottsdale K10 built 350 4"lift - SOLD |
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