AD / S10 swap steering shaft connector

[gigamanx]

Always preface my posts with "I did some googling" haha...Maybe that should be my signature.


I'm onto the steering column this weekend. Used a 2.5" exhaust U-bolt to hold it and that fit very nicely. I cut the 3/4" steering shaft to size and installed the borgeson joint. I'm just not happy with the outcome. It seems very loose with a telescoping joint on the S10 side and the steering shaft also slides into the steering column. I feel like one end or the other or both need to be welded so they stop sliding.

Here are a few pics of the current state. You can sort of see with all that sliding, the shaft just sits on the exhaust manifold. Seems like it needs to be propped up or have a bracket to hold it up. Plenty of room in there thankfully.

Should I cut the joint from the S10 end? Should I extend the shaft? Pics would help

Also read the thread from 2015 where someone asked. But there are 2 borgeson joints in that one. Is that the only way to do it?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=655883





Another thread had this solution, but it doesn't look quite the same as mine.


https://www.killbillet.com/showthrea...by-step)/page2

[dsraven]

I would say the pics with the blue engine are waiting for a failure of the stock joint that is at the uphill end of the shaft, before the new universal joint. can you imagine the heat in that area between the header pipes? no room for an insulating shroud either.
the bottom pic would last longer especially if the headers were swapped out for a pair that dumps forward more and keeps some of the heat away from the joint. room for a heat shroud is better in that scenario as well. by the looks of it.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I would say the pics with the blue engine are waiting for a failure of the stock joint that is at the uphill end of the shaft, before the new universal joint. can you imagine the heat in that area between the header pipes? no room for an insulating shroud either.
the bottom pic would last longer especially if the headers were swapped out for a pair that dumps forward more and keeps some of the heat away from the joint. room for a heat shroud is better in that scenario as well. by the looks of it.

Ha, the blue engine is my one. That's why I mentioned I wasn't happy with the outcome. I didn't think of heat against the rubber of that joint. I guess It's time for some choppy choppy.

[joedoh]

you have too many u joints to run it unsupported. when I use the borgeson telescoping shaft I use the borgeson 1"DD to 1"DD u joint at the column and the borgeson 3/4" DD to 3/4" 30 spline at the steering box with the telescoping shaft the only thing in between. this is basically what you see in the second method you posted (the one that doesnt look like yours)

what it appears you have done is use a length of DD to extend the column, a u joint to another length of DD, the factory u joint to the factory slip shaft, and the factory rag joint at the box. this is pretty complicated and will need a heim joint to support the second DD shaft, usually a bracket is welded to the frame.

or you could just replace all the mess with the borgeson telescoping shaft and a 3/4" DD to 3/4" 30 spline. I would suggest you get rid of the length of DD at the bottom of the column. if it hits your headers without it though you may need to keep it. be certain that if you have a hollow DD that you drill through one side and use the long set bolts to push on the INSIDE of the tube. if its solid DD, I always drill a small recess to let the short set bolt to hold it

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

when I use the borgeson telescoping shaft I use the borgeson 1"DD to 1"DD u joint at the column and the borgeson 3/4" DD to 3/4" 30 spline at the steering box with the telescoping shaft the only thing in between. this is basically what you see in the second method you posted (the one that doesnt look like yours)

or you could just replace all the mess with the borgeson telescoping shaft and a 3/4" DD to 3/4" 30 spline. I would suggest you get rid of the length of DD at the bottom of the column. if it hits your headers without it though you may need to keep it.

Ok, I originally went off what I saw in the garage and what was on the S10 sticky thread for parts. I hear what you're saying and it makes more sense now that I removed the dust cover from the lower S10 joint. I see where a 30 spline would go.

So before I burn more money on this, since steering parts are actually kind of pricey for what they are, what length telescoping tube am I looking for? I like simple, so if I can find a way to do that, I will for sure. Any reason you don't like repurposing the S10 telescoping steering tube? Is it just too short?

I guess I now have a spare 3/4 to 3/4 joint and some 3/4 DD haha.

[dsraven]

you maybe wanna throw a short piece of chain or some other "for sure" link on your motor mounts as well. if you seperate a motor mount during a burn out or whatever, you will also jam your steering input shaft because the shaft is captured by the pipes.
try to get the steering with as few u joints as possible and phase the ujoints from one end of the shaft to the other. do you have a straight uninterupted run from the output of the ujoint below the floor over to the box input without hitting anything? if so, that makes it easy for installing the slip shaft, like joedoh says.
just my thoughts though

[joedoh]

you dont NEED a telescoping shaft, as long as you can measure the DD exactly you can just use DD. that changes the u joints though because the telescoping shaft is a 3/4" DD on one end and 1" DD on the other. so if you omit the telescoping shaft you will need to use a piece of 1" DD and use the right lower joint.

I use the 36" one and end up trimming a bunch off.

telescoping shaft is a nice idea for old columns that have a solid rod from the bottom to the top and can come at you like a spear in a front end collision. line up pencils on a table and push on the eraser of the first pencil. they all move.

but later model steering columns have collapsible portions inside so its less risky. I like the telescoping shaft and probably wont stop using it, but like I said a length of DD sure is cheaper.

if you can go straight line from the bottom of the column to the 30 spline, you can use a u joint at the column and one at the box and you are done.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I use the 36" one and end up trimming a bunch off.

I like the telescoping shaft and probably wont stop using it, but like I said a length of DD sure is cheaper.

Something I feel like isn't worth being cheap with. I could imagine sitting on the side of a road with a hole in my chest thinking...man, I really didn't need that extra $70.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by dsraven

you maybe wanna throw a short piece of chain or some other "for sure" link on your motor mounts as well. if you seperate a motor mount during a burn out or whatever, you will also jam your steering input shaft because the shaft is captured by the pipes.

Damn man, you must punish your truck haha. I've thought of this for my custom made transmission shaft. What happens if I snap it and where does the trans and driveshaft end up. Could be a disaster. I might have to do some burnouts on an old road and drive through some big potholes just to make sure its up to the task before going down a highway.

[hogfarm]

I have been looking at your post.I am working on the steering on my 58.One thing I found sliding the 3/4" DD shaft into the columm ,it's just to much slop a guy would have to fix that.I had some block hugger headers on my truck and steering was good but could now get to spark plugs,what headers do you have,I think those would work for me

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by hogfarm

I have been looking at your post.I am working on the steering on my 58.One thing I found sliding the 3/4" DD shaft into the columm ,it's just to much slop a guy would have to fix that.I had some block hugger headers on my truck and steering was good but could now get to spark plugs,what headers do you have,I think those would work for me

I'm using the Jegs Hedman header kit Part #500-69520. I liked the Jegs one because it came with the attachment at the exhaust end and the exhaust gasket for the SBC 350.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/69520/10002/-1

It's hard to see in the product pictures, but the drivers side tubes go out and around the steering shaft leaving a tunnel to put it through. My two pictures below depict this better. I haven't noticed too much of an issue getting to the spark plugs although they were installed before the headers were and I haven't had to remove them.

[dsraven]

I have had V8 vega conversions and other stuff in the past with some big power. I know that is awhile back, and engine mounts may have come a long way since then, but if you have ever had a motor mount crater under power, or seen somebody else's, you would know where I am coming from with the engine tie down/engine rotation limiter. it's bad enough that the engine does the floppy chicken in the engine bay and stretches all the connections but if it interferes with the steering that could be (almost) as bad as the steering shaft spear, especially if a fuel line gets involved at the same time.
you could do the header wrap to keep temps more manageable in that area if a heat guard is out of the question
you could raise the engine an inch to help with clearance if you have room under the floor
I recommend some sort of telescoping shaft or collapsible steering column. nobody plans to crash but it can turn ugly in a hurry if you do. it's the reason why newer vehicle have the collapsible stuff.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I have had V8 vega conversions and other stuff in the past with some big power. I know that is awhile back, and engine mounts may have come a long way since then, but if you have ever had a motor mount crater under power, or seen somebody else's, you would know where I am coming from with the engine tie down/engine rotation limiter. it's bad enough that the engine does the floppy chicken in the engine bay and stretches all the connections but if it interferes with the steering that could be (almost) as bad as the steering shaft spear, especially if a fuel line gets involved at the same time.
you could do the header wrap to keep temps more manageable in that area if a heat guard is out of the question
you could raise the engine an inch to help with clearance if you have room under the floor
I recommend some sort of telescoping shaft or collapsible steering column. nobody plans to crash but it can turn ugly in a hurry if you do. it's the reason why newer vehicle have the collapsible stuff.

How are you still alive to tell these stories? I think I'm too far in my build to worry about raising the engine off the mounts. I bought the transdapt ones so they are pretty solid. The fuel line is running through the frame in that section, so no worries there. I may wrap the headers because I haven't figured out how the ignition cable casing isn't going to melt sitting right beside the headers on the spark plugs.