Fixed surge issue - thanks to Geezer!!! Now HEI or keep points....

[57rookie]

Thanks to Geezer I did fix my surge issue. Turns out once I researched how to adjust a Quadajet the passenger side screw was turned all the way in. Motor was starving for enough air for the air/fuel mixture. Idles nice and low and smooth now!!!
My next question is what is the opinion of the board members on keeping points ignition or upgrading to HEI distributor setup??? Not a daily driver by any means but I want this truck reliable - just not sure it is worth the $$. I guess I could keep the factory setup parts in case someone wanted it original some day since it is very original with 64K on it... What do we think?????

[Coley]

The HEI's are a very popular choice...and way, way better than a points ignition....but anything probably is.
For myself, I use the pertronix electronic ignition system in order to keep the original look by leaving the original distributor and cap, wires etc.
Its your own choice...but I would definitely lose the points ignition if thats what you have.

Coley

[leuggy]

I would go HEI, I have a couple extras pm me


Blaine

[geezer#99]

Hei is quite tight on the firewall.
Go with a pertronix like Coley suggests.

[57rookie]

If I change the distributor I always find it very hard to find top dead center when working by myself. What I do is note where the rotor is pointing on the old dizzy then drop the new one pointing at the same direction that I have pre marked in the engine bay.
Is this acceptable??? Looking for the boards opinion on what I usually do.

[Steeveedee]

Just drop the new one pointing in the same direction. You won't have to do that with a Pertronix, and it is as reliable as an HEI (though I have an HEI in mine- it came for free). It's also dead simple to install. You won't have to hunt for where to plug in another power wire, or to route it.

[geezer#99]

Point the rotor at #1 on the cap every time and you can't go wrong.

[Sweeet67]

I have a pertronix converted distributor that I pulled out last year. If your interested pm me?

[El Dorado Jim]

go with an HEI, parts are available at any parts store, gives a hotter spark than the pertronix....it will fit in our old trucks...I put one in my 72 4x4...

[67ChevyRedneck]

I swapped my C10 to an HEI back in 2002. It's been so dead nuts reliable and trouble free I bought a conversion version for my Ford 289 (it's a GM HEI base/rotor/coil/cap but machined with a Ford shaft and cam gear). It absolutely needs an IGN on 12 V source (easiest to get from the ignition switch). The wire to the points dizzy is only 8V and while it will run an HEI for a little while, it won't run right and will eventually burn up either the control module or coil.

The distributor is only tight on the firewall if your V8 was installed in the wrong (straight 6) position.

[Never enough]

I have the Pertronix III, (hall effect), conversion with MATCHING coil, (important) in 4 vehicles now and have never had a problem. You can open the plugs to .045 and the engines start much quicker and run smoother. Get the black coil and turn the label to the back and it all looks original. You can leave the distributor clamped in place to do the swap. I usually pull mine and shim the end play and inspect the main shaft for wear/looseness in bushings.
Pertronix makes a complete, vintage look, new replacement for Chev engines. I have 2 of them also, no issues whatsoever, and I drive my street rod 2,000+ miles a year.
Can't stand the look of a huge HEI in a vintage engine bay.

[geezer#99]

One more thing to consider!
Your air cleaner might not fit(without a riser) if you use an hei

[OregonNed]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

One more thing to consider!
Your air cleaner might not fit(without a riser) if you use an hei

Had this problem myself and a cleaner base can be found that gives clearance too...

[jamyers]

There are lots of ways to upgrade to the GM HEI, from swapping whole distributors to modding a Chrysler magnetic pickup inside the existing distributor and mounting the HEI module out of sight somewhere else, to buying one of several HEI conversions available online.
Our BubbaTruck is using one of the $80 ebay big-cap HEI distributors, all new parts and it fits and works great in a daily driver. My '62 Ranchero has a Ford dura-spark small-cap electronic distributor with a GM HEI module mounted out of sight on a large heat sink, and has been maintenance free for about 10 years and 20K miles. My '71 LeSabre used an HEI module triggered by a custom electronic distributor for years, until I went to an MSD box.

IMHO, it's awful hard to beat the GM HEI system, either in the original big-cap or modified into an original or original-looking small-cap distributor. Dead reliable, simple, and parts are *everywhere*.


Pertronix - While some people have super-reliable Pertronix units, what I've observed is that if you do have an issue with their stuff, their customer "service" is poor at best - basically you're on your own.
I do have two of their billet series III distributors that are both dead / useless right out of their boxes, if anybody wants one. Pertronix said that I must have wired them wrong - even though I KNOW that I didn't, and their series III are supposedly protected against mis-wiring. UGH.

[toiletbowl54]

I say keep the points. I have seen dyno run comparisons on the net ( if its on the net it must be true) that show points run right there with the HEI up to 5000 rpm's. How often do you run your motor past 5000 rpm's. How long does it take to switch out a set of points and a condenser and set the timing, 30 min. max. Just make sure you run a good set of points and condenser like Blue Streak. Just my opinion.

[57rookie]

So here is something VERY odd. I changed plugs today and took the time to trace every spark plug wire and mark them at the dist cap to make sure previous owner had things proper. I swear to god that the #1 and #3 spark plug wires were in each other's proper distributer cap position - yet the engine ran - Is this even possible.............. I switched them back to proper position and it runs fine. Very odd.............

[jamyers]

One more thought - take a good *close* look at that points distributor if you decide to keep it, either with points or a conversion. A worn shaft / bushings will let the dwell wander all over the place, and a worn base plate (where the points mount) can let the dwell and timing shift around a lot as the vacuum advance moves.

Also, if you swap to an HEI distributor, you'll need new HEI spark plug wires - depending on how new the existing ones are, the additional $$ might be a factor.

[jamyers]

Originally Posted by toiletbowl54

I say keep the points. I have seen dyno run comparisons on the net ( if its on the net it must be true) that show points run right there with the HEI up to 5000 rpm's. How often do you run your motor past 5000 rpm's. How long does it take to switch out a set of points and a condenser and set the timing, 30 min. max. Just make sure you run a good set of points and condenser like Blue Streak. Just my opinion.

New points are fine, I ran Blue Streak in my Buick for years and years. HOWEVER, after a year and or 10K miles, they won't still be 100%. Points work, but it's a downhill slide from day one. Electronic ignitions 100% right up until they aren't - when they fail, it's an immediate failure (that's why I keep a spare HEI module handy)

[57rookie]

67ChevyRedneck - why would the wire that powers the coil be only 8V?? Mine seems to be a thick 10 or 12 gauge wire to my coil. Seems to me it would be 12V....... I guess I could put a multimeter on it with the key on to double check.
Wire is brown in color for some reason and my tach wire which seems very factory since it comes out of the original harness is yellow and not green....
Mine is a 71 so maybe 67-68 only had 8V to the coil and they changed it for the last two years......

[bw46]

HEI.
I have had 2 pertronix units fail (out of 4). One was bad out of the box, one failed after about 2 years.

[Mike C]

For an oddball that doesn't have a GM HEI solution (Nissan Z car, John Deere Tractor, Willys Jeep) the Pertronix is a great solution. Ran one on my 240z for years until I swapped a set of triples on it. Won't pull enough vacuum for the OEM distributor so switched to a Unilite w/out vac.

I've got an MSD distributor and amplifier (6A, 6T, 6AL) on some vehicles, and it's the right solution for them.

But for a GM street driven vehicle, it seems crazy NOT to run the HEI. They are very high output induction ignition that work great. And they are inexpensive. And parts are available everywhere. And they are reliable. And did I mention they are cheap and they work great?

There is an old hot rodding adage that says "90% of carburetor problems are ignition". So take that off the table by ditching the complication of the points. (And I still have points on quite a few vehicles so I'm not a hater.)

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by Mike C

For an oddball that doesn't have a GM HEI solution (Nissan Z car, John Deere Tractor, Willys Jeep) the Pertronix is a great solution. Ran one on my 240z for years until I swapped a set of triples on it. Won't pull enough vacuum for the OEM distributor so switched to a Unilite w/out vac.

I've got an MSD distributor and amplifier (6A, 6T, 6AL) on some vehicles, and it's the right solution for them.

But for a GM street driven vehicle, it seems crazy NOT to run the HEI. They are very high output induction ignition that work great. And they are inexpensive. And parts are available everywhere. And they are reliable. And did I mention they are cheap and they work great?

There is an old hot rodding adage that says "90% of carburetor problems are ignition". So take that off the table by ditching the complication of the points. (And I still have points on quite a few vehicles so I'm not a hater.)

Too right. When I worked as a mechanic, I couldn't tell you the number of people who came in with a problem where they claimed the carburetor was at fault. The first time I listened to the customer telling me it was the carburetor, I replaced it as requested. It wasn't the problem, and at least that customer understood. But after that, I told them I would check it out, did a diagnostic and made the correct repair. I was poor as a kid, and I hate to even spend other people's money, as a result. Plus, I have some pride in workmanship. I'm not a "parts changer". I knew guys who would keep throwing parts at a problem until it was fixed. That costs the customer unnecessary money, and they go somewhere else next time, as a result. I'm not perfect, and have had to eat some repairs. Not fun.

[70blackfish]

anything electronic is better than points...dont buy made in china and you will be glad you made the swap

[jamyers]

Originally Posted by 57rookie

67ChevyRedneck - why would the wire that powers the coil be only 8V?? Mine seems to be a thick 10 or 12 gauge wire to my coil. Seems to me it would be 12V....... I guess I could put a multimeter on it with the key on to double check.
Wire is brown in color for some reason and my tach wire which seems very factory since it comes out of the original harness is yellow and not green....
Mine is a 71 so maybe 67-68 only had 8V to the coil and they changed it for the last two years......

Points ignitions use a resistor of some sort (either a ceramic-encased ballast resistor or a resistor wire) to drop the voltage down from 12 to 6-8 while the engine is running. They do this to prolong the life of the points, as the arcing when they open is much less with lower voltage.

Points ALSO have a circuit to provide full 12V only while cranking, for more spark while starting. Usually this is a wire coming off of the starter solenoid/relay to the ignition circuit

GM HEI needs 12V all the time, so if you convert you won’t need the “12v cranking circuit” but you’ll need full battery voltage while cranking and running. Confirm there is no resistor dropping the voltage - with a multimeter. Wire size is no indication.

This will hold true for any year of these GM trucks. IIRC GM introduced HEI in pickups around 1976-78, for sure not before 1974

[Never enough]

Who are you guys with dead distributors buying them from ??
I buy all my stuff from Summit. When I have the occasional issue THEY handle the warranty problems with the manufacturer. Summit sends me a new part and I send the POS back to them. Pretty sure Jegs is just as good with exchanges.