Opinions on best brake flaring tool and bender

[Jmh68C10]

In the market for a flaring tool and brake bender . Recommendations welcome !

[A1971Blazer]

I got this one and added the 37º JIC turret as well...there are more expensive ones but this one has worked very well for me....
http://www.eastwood.com/professional...ring-tool.html

[Advanced Design]

Ive been pleased with the flaring tool from Mastercool. A bit pricey and worth it to me. https://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-71...l+flaring+tool

[95 S_Trucker]

The one from mastercool is the best. Hands down. I use mine all the time.

[Notch1988]

I use the Eastwood one too and have never had a bad flare. As for benders, buy one dedicated for the size you're bending, don't buy the 3 in 1 benders because they only bend one radius based on the largest tubing it will bend. Most of my benders are Imperial but my 3/16 bender is a Rigid.

[Rickysnickers]

I have a Rigid flare tool and it worked/works well. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/precisi...ing-flare-tool

[95 S_Trucker]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I have a Rigid flare tool and it worked/works well. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/precisi...ing-flare-tool

I looked at the parts diagram, It looks like that tool only performs single wall flares. That tool should never be used to flare brake lines.

Brake lines requre a double wall flare.

[B. W.]

I have the Mastercool tool also, like it a lot, use it all the time. It creates an excellent, professional flare every time. With that said, the Eastwood tool looks a little easier / quicker to use. With it clamped in a vice you have both your hands free. It seems like I need three hands to get everything lined up well with the Master cool. Also, I think you have better feel/control with the lever on the Eastwood (if that matters).

One plus for the Mastercool, you can flare on the vehicle if room allows, done that more than a few times.

I think I'll buy the Eastwood tool someday, can't have too many tools!

[Rickysnickers]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

I looked at the parts diagram, It looks like that tool only performs single wall flares. That tool should never be used to flare brake lines.

Brake lines requre a double wall flare.

That's correct about the flares. I should have added that I used a collar behind the flare and in front of the tube nut. My apologies.

[Hardworkinguy]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

I looked at the parts diagram, It looks like that tool only performs single wall flares. That tool should never be used to flare brake lines.

Brake lines requre a double wall flare.

Not necessarily. The Rigid tool is used to make single wall flares at a 37º angle in seamless tubing. The connection has to be supported with a tube sleeve ( https://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/15920/ ) and then a tube nut of the correct size. These are used to plumb a brake system with AN fittings. I have one of these tools and used it to do my race car in AN fittings and stainless steel seamless tubing.

The Mastercool kit is awesome and its strongest suit is that you can use it anywhere on the car rather than having to remove a line and carry it to the vice to connect an existing line to a new line. It also forms many quick connect fuel lines,etc. The only down side to it is that the clamping pieces have a heavy knurl,and will leave some of that showing behind the tube nut. It is a non-issue for normal shop repairs,but might not look as nice on a custom/show vehicle.

I like the Eastman type tool the best. It is fast and makes nice looking flares without the knurl where it clamps the line. I especially like that when using the softer copper/nickel line we use in the rust belt. The Eastman tool wasn't around when I bought my flaring tool,but I have one very similar. It came from Fed Hill Trading Company.

https://cunifer.com/hikashop-menu-fo...-flaring-tools

For those unfamiliar,Cunifer is the trade name of the original UK sourced copper-nickel brake line. It gets its name from copper (Cu),nickel (ni) and ferrous (fer).

It is considerably more expensive then the Eastman,and kind of pricy to keep adding capability to as well. For the person doing their own repairs and restorations,I think the Eastman would make the best overall tool.

[Jmh68C10]

I ended up with the eastwood products and couldn't be happier. This is my first time making a complete set of brake lines for a truck and it was not bad at all. Here are the links to the tools I used.
I highly recommend these 3 tools
https://www.eastwood.com/professiona...ring-tool.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-ha...ighteners.html
https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bender-rolling.html

This is the only tool I ordered that I am not a fan of atleast with Nickel copper lines
https://www.eastwood.com/tubing-bend...liers-kit.html

[ryanv70c10]

Ridgid all the way...

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by Hardworkinguy

Not necessarily. The Rigid tool is used to make single wall flares at a 37º angle in seamless tubing. The connection has to be supported with a tube sleeve ( https://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/15920/ ) and then a tube nut of the correct size. These are used to plumb a brake system with AN fittings. I have one of these tools and used it to do my race car in AN fittings and stainless steel seamless tubing.

The Mastercool kit is awesome and its strongest suit is that you can use it anywhere on the car rather than having to remove a line and carry it to the vice to connect an existing line to a new line. It also forms many quick connect fuel lines,etc. The only down side to it is that the clamping pieces have a heavy knurl,and will leave some of that showing behind the tube nut. It is a non-issue for normal shop repairs,but might not look as nice on a custom/show vehicle.

I like the Eastman type tool the best. It is fast and makes nice looking flares without the knurl where it clamps the line. I especially like that when using the softer copper/nickel line we use in the rust belt. The Eastman tool wasn't around when I bought my flaring tool,but I have one very similar. It came from Fed Hill Trading Company.

https://cunifer.com/hikashop-menu-fo...-flaring-tools

For those unfamiliar,Cunifer is the trade name of the original UK sourced copper-nickel brake line. It gets its name from copper (Cu),nickel (ni) and ferrous (fer).

It is considerably more expensive then the Eastman,and kind of pricy to keep adding capability to as well. For the person doing their own repairs and restorations,I think the Eastman would make the best overall tool.

I thought you had to have double flares as well, but my TCI chassis came plumbed with 3/16” SS tube and when I made a few changes I had to buy a 37 degree single flare tool that could handle SS tube - I got the Rigid and it worked great.

[95 S_Trucker]

Originally Posted by Hardworkinguy

Not necessarily. The Rigid tool is used to make single wall flares at a 37º angle in seamless tubing. The connection has to be supported with a tube sleeve ( https://secure.chassisshop.com/partlist/15920/ ) and then a tube nut of the correct size. These are used to plumb a brake system with AN fittings. I have one of these tools and used it to do my race car in AN fittings and stainless steel seamless tubing.

The Mastercool kit is awesome and its strongest suit is that you can use it anywhere on the car rather than having to remove a line and carry it to the vice to connect an existing line to a new line. It also forms many quick connect fuel lines,etc. The only down side to it is that the clamping pieces have a heavy knurl,and will leave some of that showing behind the tube nut. It is a non-issue for normal shop repairs,but might not look as nice on a custom/show vehicle.

I like the Eastman type tool the best. It is fast and makes nice looking flares without the knurl where it clamps the line. I especially like that when using the softer copper/nickel line we use in the rust belt. The Eastman tool wasn't around when I bought my flaring tool,but I have one very similar. It came from Fed Hill Trading Company.

https://cunifer.com/hikashop-menu-fo...-flaring-tools

For those unfamiliar,Cunifer is the trade name of the original UK sourced copper-nickel brake line. It gets its name from copper (Cu),nickel (ni) and ferrous (fer).

It is considerably more expensive then the Eastman,and kind of pricy to keep adding capability to as well. For the person doing their own repairs and restorations,I think the Eastman would make the best overall tool.

The description in the link that Ricky posted states 45 degree flares, not 37.

Are the single wall 37 degree flares legal for road use? Or just off road/racing applications?

[Hardworkinguy]

Originally Posted by 95 S_Trucker

The description in the link that Ricky posted states 45 degree flares, not 37.

Are the single wall 37 degree flares legal for road use? Or just off road/racing applications?

I have never seen any inspection laws that specify one over the other. In some states,people use compression fittings to join brake lines together!

The reason for single flare versus double flare is due to the type of tube and how it is manufactured. A standard steel brake line starts out as a flat piece of steel. It is rolled into a tube and electro-welded (brazed?) and then finished smooth on the outside,but there is still a seam on the inside. The double flaring process allows the smooth outside of the tube to be folded over and become the sealing surface of the flare. A single flare would cause a leak where the seam is.

The stainless steel tube is seamless tubing,and does not require the double flare. It does require a tube sleeve and a tube nut for the connection.

You are correct-the other link was for 45º single flares. That should not be used for brake lines. Rigid makes both,but I don't know of any automotive use for single 45º flares.

[95 S_Trucker]

Originally Posted by Hardworkinguy

I have never seen any inspection laws that specify one over the other. In some states,people use compression fittings to join brake lines together!

The reason for single flare versus double flare is due to the type of tube and how it is manufactured. A standard steel brake line starts out as a flat piece of steel. It is rolled into a tube and electro-welded (brazed?) and then finished smooth on the outside,but there is still a seam on the inside. The double flaring process allows the smooth outside of the tube to be folded over and become the sealing surface of the flare. A single flare would cause a leak where the seam is.

The stainless steel tube is seamless tubing,and does not require the double flare. It does require a tube sleeve and a tube nut for the connection.

You are correct-the other link was for 45º single flares. That should not be used for brake lines. Rigid makes both,but I don't know of any automotive use for single 45º flares.

I appreciate the info.

Compression fittings are not legal in pa.

[LEEVON]

I bought this kit, DO NOT RECOMMEND. It distorts on tightening, the knurling no longer holds the tubing and it is generally clunky and troublesome. Go hydraulic if you budget allows.

[A1971Blazer]

Originally Posted by Hardworkinguy

I have never seen any inspection laws that specify one over the other. In some states,people use compression fittings to join brake lines together!

The reason for single flare versus double flare is due to the type of tube and how it is manufactured. A standard steel brake line starts out as a flat piece of steel. It is rolled into a tube and electro-welded (brazed?) and then finished smooth on the outside,but there is still a seam on the inside. The double flaring process allows the smooth outside of the tube to be folded over and become the sealing surface of the flare. A single flare would cause a leak where the seam is.

The stainless steel tube is seamless tubing,and does not require the double flare. It does require a tube sleeve and a tube nut for the connection.

You are correct-the other link was for 45º single flares. That should not be used for brake lines. Rigid makes both,but I don't know of any automotive use for single 45º flares.

I was repairing the brake line on my old firewood truck....I went to Napa to get a section of tube and a compression fitting to put it together.....when I went to pay the guy says " I can't sell you a piece of tubing and compression fittings"....

so I bought the tube....went out to my truck....came back in and bought the compression fittings....silly? yes but that was Napa's rule....


Normally I would never do this anyway....but that truck was never on the road...I didn't even have tags and insurance on it.

When I bought my current K/5...someone had jury rigged the rear brake lines and there was a compression fitting on the main tube above the axle....it was leaking so I bought some tubing and some of the coli spring shield material and made all new lines....along with a new line going all the way up front to the first connection....that's when I bought the Eastwood tool and made the tube straightener...

[JJH Jimmy]

Originally Posted by Rickysnickers

I have a Rigid flare tool and it worked/works well. https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/precisi...ing-flare-tool

This tool will do double flares you just have to buy the adapters for them. It works ok for steel lines but i wouldn't even try it on stainless.

[Scott2]

Originally Posted by JJH Jimmy

This tool will do double flares you just have to buy the adapters for them. It works ok for steel lines but i wouldn't even try it on stainless.

You need to use 37 degree single flares on SS - there is a version of the same Rigid tool for those and it worked great for me on my SS lines.