Wiring for a 1969 C10 Pickup

[djferrari]

Hey guys,

I bought a Ron Francis wiring kit and just finished wiring the first part of the truck, the ignition, starter, alternator and all that. I went to start the truck and the starter soleniod got really hot. It clicked once and would not turn over. The battery is low, so I am charging that, but what would cause the starter soleniod to get hot like that? I could smell a burning smell as well, so not sure if I have too much power going to it. I have an upgraded alternator, and there are wires going into the starter soleniod from the battery, alternator, main panel wire and ignition wire all hook to the main post on the soleniod. I am wondering if I have too many wires on one post. Ron Francis supplies a block to reroute some of those wires. Any help would be appreciated as we are not stuck. I will be contacting Ron Francis on Monday as well.

Thanks guys.

[harpo231]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1511129120

[djferrari]

Originally Posted by harpo231

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1511129120

Thanks, I hope you don't mind a few followup questions. Your wires are colored a bit different, so not sure about all this. The Purple wire runs to the fuse block, correct? You have the battery cable and two other wires on the main battery pole, what are they? And finally, you have a wire hooked to the other small terminal to the left, is that for the coil? If so, I don't have a coil, it is an hei setup.

My buddy is thinking I might have a grounding issue, as I did not change any of the grounding on the truck before I started.

[harpo231]

I got the pic from forum ,, and yes ground or a short will cause heat

[LockDoc]

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If you have an HEI all you should have connected on the solenoid are the Battery cable and the purple wire. Does the solenoid engage when you turn the key to the "on" position or only when the key is in the "start" position? I have seen the alternator tied into the positive post on the solenoid but I don't think that is the correct way to do it.... The alt. doesn't get the correct accumulated load reading from a direct connection to the positive cable, so it doesn't charge correctly. The main panel wire should be connected up by the voltage regulator.....

LockDoc

[harpo231]

Listen to doc

[Warrens69GMC]

I hear you say you hooked up this power and that power, but did you hook up the ground at the fender by the battery, ground to the engine, and the cylinder to body ground?

[djferrari]

Thanks guys for all the info. Per Ron Francis wiring diagram sent to me with the kit, it shows 4 wires that go to the hot post on the Starter Soleniod. The positive batter cable, the hot wire from the alternator, the main hot from the fuse panel and the ignition hot wire from the back of the ignition switch to the post. I have not done anything with any grounds, but can tell you that the battery negative is bolted to the bracket on the alternator. There is a small ground strap that runs from the cylinder or the block to the body somewhere. I have converted to a internal regulator alternator, so I have pulled the wires off the external regulator. The smoke and heat all came when I turned to key to the run position, not when I actually tried to start the truck. My thought is that there are a lot of wires on that post and maybe it put out too much electricity and fried the starter soleniod. This is a complete rewire, so I am basically starting from scratch and doing exactly what Ron Francis tells me. I think I screwed up though and should have gone with a setup that was more year specific. Either way, I am stuck with what I have and my 16yo son is getting a bit frustrated. Thanks for the info.

[djferrari]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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If you have an HEI all you should have connected on the solenoid are the Battery cable and the purple wire. Does the solenoid engage when you turn the key to the "on" position or only when the key is in the "start" position? I have seen the alternator tied into the positive post on the solenoid but I don't think that is the correct way to do it.... The alt. doesn't get the correct accumulated load reading from a direct connection to the positive cable, so it doesn't charge correctly. The main panel wire should be connected up by the voltage regulator.....

LockDoc

Please don't take this as I am questioning your info or your knowledge. But curious, If all that goes to the starter soleniod is the purple wire and the battery cable, how does the fuse panel and the ignition get it''s power? Where does the alternator go to? I have switched to an internal regulated alternator, so I am just not sure I understand. Sorry if this seems I am questioning you, I am not. I am a weekend warrior and trying to do this with my 16yo son. We are both a bit frustrated.

[harpo231]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1511226729

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by djferrari

Please don't take this as I am questioning your info or your knowledge. But curious, If all that goes to the starter soleniod is the purple wire and the battery cable, how does the fuse panel and the ignition get it''s power? Where does the alternator go to? I have switched to an internal regulated alternator, so I am just not sure I understand. Sorry if this seems I am questioning you, I am not. I am a weekend warrior and trying to do this with my 16yo son. We are both a bit frustrated.

No problem. As in the illustration that harpo posted the main power wires connect together by the core support on the drivers side. They are actually all soldered together and taped up with electrical tape. I will try to find a picture and post it later.

LockDoc

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

No problem. As in the illustration that harpo posted the main power wires connect together by the core support on the drivers side. They are actually all soldered together and taped up with electrical tape. I will try to find a picture and post it later.

LockDoc

What they have done is given him the harness for the later year 75 and later trucks. GM used the starter solenoid for the main junction and ran the alternator output wire, the battery charge wire, to the large stud, along with the power wire to the inside fuse box.

They also use fusible links in each of those wires for protection from shorts. He will find out that his battery gauge will not work if he has the gauge dash because he has bypassed the Shunt for the gauge by connecting the battery and the alternator wires together at the same point.

You are correct in that he should only have the battery cable and the purple wire connected on the solenoid, and the other wires should be routed to a main junction like the one you described. I posted a picture of mine below before I removed it and installed a terminal block in it's place.




This is my junction block with the main wires but it is not complete at this point.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by VetteVet

What they have done is given him the harness for the later year 75 and later trucks. GM used the starter solenoid for the main junction and ran the alternator output wire, the battery charge wire, to the large stud, along with the power wire to the inside fuse box.

They also use fusible links in each of those wires for protection from shorts. He will find out that his battery gauge will not work if he has the gauge dash because he has bypassed the Shunt for the gauge by connecting the battery and the alternator wires together at the same point.

You are correct in that he should only have the battery cable and the purple wire connected on the solenoid, and the other wires should be routed to a main junction like the one you described. I posted a picture of mine below before I removed it and installed a terminal block in it's place.

This is my junction block with the main wires but it is not complete at this point.

Thanks VetteVet. I have seen some pretty cobbled up power junctions with extra stuff added by owners.

It almost sounds to me like the P.O. has a direct short at the solenoid to create that much heat when the key is turned to the run position. Or the solenoid is engaged all the time when the key is in the run position. I'm afraid I'm not going to be much help if he has a '73+ wire loom. I'm not familiar with them at all.

LockDoc

[VetteVet]

If I were trouble shooting his problem I would disconnect everything going to the starter except the main battery cable and then jump the cable to the S terminal with a remote button. This isolates the solenoid from the wiring and would show if the solenoid were the problem or if it was the wiring.

[REDROCKER652002]

Howdy guys, I know this is an old thread, but thought I would update. We decided to forgo the Ron Francis kit and use something a bit more suited for model specific. We ended up using American Autowire's year specific kit and it was a breeze. I have never rewired a vehicle, and with the help of their kit and instructions it was very simple. I probably over thought it and it took longer than it should have, but what the heck, it was fun and it worked out perfect. Anyway, the wiring kit that American Autowire has is a great set up and very easy to install.

Thanks to all for the assistance,

Dino AKA DJ's Dad

[LockDoc]

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You will have to become a "Premium" member to post anything for sale on the board. If you click on the word "Subscribe" in the menu bar above it will explain the different subscription options. Money well spent for all of the information and help available on here.....

LockDoc

[REDROCKER652002]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

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You will have to become a "Premium" member to post anything for sale on the board. If you click on the word "Subscribe" in the menu bar above it will explain the different subscription options. Money well spent for all of the information and help available on here.....

LockDoc

Sorry, I saw that after I had posted to the thread. Won't make that mistake again.