66 "liberation"build

[Oydllay]

Hey all, new here. I've come to rely on this site as my go to for info and ideas. Figured it was time to come to the forefront with my newest project! For years I have built nice cars with beautiful paint and detailed this and that. Some restorations, some hot rods. The one thing that always bugged me is I can't enjoy driving them as an everyday car. Always on the lookout for the next idiot that wants to lean on my 500 hour paint job! I have a 72 GMC with a cummins that still has its time worn patina. Its my everyday truck and turns out I get more enjoyment out of it than I do my 442 that I spent counless hours on! So with that idea as justification for a new project, I decided to jump on board with the patina truck movement. I know, kinda late to the party. Story of my life! I picked up this 66 shorty a while ago and in spite of its appearance, it's relatively solid. The idea is to leave the truck looking field fresh. There will be no body work unless it can be done with a claw hammer and a wrecking bar. No paint unless dispensed from a rattle can. There will be however many behind the scenes mods. Suspension upgrades to fix geometry and handling. Twin turbo LS engine with overdrive trans. Etc. I'm not even going to wash off the used engine! Turbos are diesel takeoffs. Read: budget build. Gonna go fast, handle like a performance car and look like crap! Only bling will be some nice wheels (duh, of course). The fine line between a junker and a show car is defined by the wheels!

[65truckowner]

I am doing the same thing with my 65. I have built three of them and was always nervous driving them and parking them. This one is going to be epoxy black with a set of ralleys and a redone interior. Hope to enjoy it and not worry about other idiots . Looks like a nice start to your plan. I also really like the 442

[Oydllay]

Thanks much. Really looking forward to this one!

[Captainfab]

Welcome to the forum

Nice looking current and past projects. Keep us updated on your '66 build.

[youngrodder]

Looks like a great project. Your rational is similar to the reason why I started on my 53 Suburban. I want more of a utilitarian ride. My 48 truck (ironically similar color green to your Old's) has nice paint, the Suburban will not....

Good luck

Marc

[Oydllay]

So although I'm a firm believer of build don't buy, I caved on some motor mounts and a crossmember to get started. I need to get this thing running so I can pull it in and out of the garage. And in reality These were worth every penny. The crossmember is three piece and allows easy removal of the center section with just two bolts. The engine mounts utilize some of the strongest mounts ever used in a GM. Very nice stuff from IFS! Looks like it belongs to a Transformer. My only gripe is that because of the desighn of the drop out crossmember, it doesn't do as much for frame stiffening as say a stock 73-85 style member. In this case it isn't going to matter as I plan on adding triangulated braces to the frame. In fact in most cases it wouldn't really matter. Proverbial Fly **** in the pepper!

[Oydllay]

So, a little update since the last post. Since I raised the rear suspension 4", I had to bring up the bed floor to match. Actually not a hard job. But then again I don't have to worry about paint! I marked out the cuts, pre-drilled the bolt holes and bent the new flanges up into position. A piece of angle iron was run 4" higher on the headboard and across the tailgate opening. I had some old quartersaw oak floor planks saved for years in the basement that finally had a pupose. After the purchase of a dado blade and a day with my table saw, I had them ready for finish. I bought new raw steel strips for the bed, sanded them to remove the protective coating and treated them to muriatic acid. After they dried I spayed them with hydrogen peroxide and salt to get them started rusting. Not quite the same rust color as the body but it'll get better with time.

[Oydllay]

I just realized the bed floor pics didn't make it on the last post.

[Oydllay]

I decided to raise the rear suspension instead of lowering springs. The ride just suffers too much. No Limit sells the rails to do this but this is going to stay as home brew as possible. Everything was squared and leveled before cutting. Plumb lines were scribed and out came the 4 inch grinder with a cutting wheel ( my new favorite way to cut metal). After that the rear frame was raised 4" and leveled/squared again. All joints were beveled all the way down before welding helping to insure a full weld. Because of all the pieces required to patch it all together, I opted to put in a box plate that extends 6 inches beyond the welds on both ends. The rear of the frame will get cut about 10 inches in and lowered to maintain the stock bumper location and mounting.

[65truckowner]

Man !! That bed floor is awesome

[Oydllay]

Thanks!

[aggie91]

Nice work on the frame Z...

[Oydllay]

Hello all. Been a while since I posted on this project. I never stopped, I just got really busy and a bit lazy. I had really wanted to keep up with the posts as this project progressed. My hope was to not only share what I was up to but help or inspire someone else's project the way others on here had for me. I picked up a lot of useful information here during my build. I guess I'll start with where the project is currently and then try to post some along the way pics.









After the rear 4" frame Z was completed, I moved onto the front suspension. Original lowers were cut and modified to move the lower ball joint forward 3/4" and shortened 3/4". (I saw this method posted here) This netted me 6 degrees positive caster in the end. The upper tubular arms were shortened as well. I used 2 inch drop spindles and taller upper and lower ball joints with a 1 inch drop spring to total a 4 inch drop. The taller ball joints not only add to the drop but relocate the upper control arm to improve roll center. All told, I got a 4 inch drop with a near stock ride! Not to mention it handles awesome! Body roll is minimal. I decided to utilize a No Limit steering rack assembly, both for more turbo piping clearance and easy bump steer correction.Tie rod ends get flipped to the bottom of the arms. Its a great kit for the money!

[Oydllay]

[Oydllay]

Also added a No Limit rear panhard bar kit. Rear trailing arm brackets were flipped and spaced back to center the rear wheel. Rear 4 inch frame Z allowed a stock height spring in the rear. Still considering a further 1 to 2 inches with some blocks.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Oydllay

For years I have built nice cars with beautiful paint and detailed this and that. Some restorations, some hot rods. The one thing that always bugged me is I can't enjoy driving them as an everyday car. Always on the lookout for the next idiot that wants to lean on my 500 hour paint job!

Don't take this as a diss, but Dah!
I have lots of friends that can only use their classic rides for the 'Wow' they get from others.

Originally Posted by Oydllay

I decided to jump on board with the patina truck movement. I know, kinda late to the party.

You're not late. Enjoy your liberation.

[kens65fb]

Originally Posted by Oydllay

Hello all. Been a while since I posted on this project. I never stopped, I just got really busy and a bit lazy. I had really wanted to keep up with the posts as this project progressed. My hope was to not only share what I was up to but help or inspire someone else's project the way others on here had for me. I picked up a lot of useful information here during my build. I guess I'll start with where the project is currently and then try to post some along the way pics.
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After the rear 4" frame Z was completed, I moved onto the front suspension. Original lowers were cut and modified to move the lower ball joint forward 3/4" and shortened 3/4". (I saw this method posted here) This netted me 6 degrees positive caster in the end. The upper tubular arms were shortened as well. I used 2 inch drop spindles and taller upper and lower ball joints with a 1 inch drop spring to total a 4 inch drop. The taller ball joints not only add to the drop but relocate the upper control arm to improve roll center. All told, I got a 4 inch drop with a near stock ride! Not to mention it handles awesome! Body roll is minimal. I decided to utilize a No Limit steering rack assembly, both for more turbo piping clearance and easy bump steer correction.Tie rod ends get flipped to the bottom of the arms. Its a great kit for the money!

Looks great !!

What size are the wheels & tires?

[tinydb84]

Great work. More turbo stuff please!