My Dream 1950 Chevy

[Lripka1950]

I call it my Birth Control Truck, I already have 6 biological children and my wife has 2 from a previous marrage, but i,finally found my dream vehicle it's a 1950 Chevy 3100, it needs work but I feel that I got it at a very reasonable price.
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[Lripka1950]

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[lower50's]

Nice! If your happy that's all that matters, it's your truck. Good luck, looks like you have some good parts there.

[NorCalGal]

Anxious to follow along, any plans yet?

[Lripka1950]

Plan is to clean out the garage first, that's almost done. Separate the body and take inventory of what I have. Plan is to start from the ground up, chassis first refurbish that and get it painted, then update the suspension

[NorCalGal]

Looks like it already has the S10 chassis under it.

[NorCalGal]

Or is it just the front s10 sub frame?

[Lripka1950]

Yep S10 is there already, so that eliminates a step for me, just want to clean it up really nice and start replacing with new suspension, I was thinking coil over for better ride, bagging it is just too much out of my wallet.

[joedoh]

part of the reason the wheels look so far in is because they are super positive offset, like for a FWD or 4X4. if you intend to keep them, you will need spacers even with a 4x4 axle.

good start, but what is actually holding the cab on? I dont see any body mounts

[Lripka1950]

Yep the body is just sitting on top of the chassis, the seller literally just set the body on top, it's close but not exactly where it needs to be.

[gigamanx]

Ha, I didn't realize you already bought it. Alrighty then, here we go!

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

part of the reason the wheels look so far in is because they are super positive offset, like for a FWD or 4X4. if you intend to keep them, you will need spacers even with a 4x4 axle.

good start, but what is actually holding the cab on? I dont see any body mounts

An odd note I recently found in trying to get my truck ready for PA registration...spacers thicker than 1/4" are not allowed. So a correct track width rear end might be the way to go. (Subchapter E 175.65 (h)) Yep, I'm the nerd carrying around the PA registration paperwork trying to check it all off before paying for an inspection.

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

An odd note I recently found in trying to get my truck ready for PA registration...spacers thicker than 1/4" are not allowed. So a correct track width rear end might be the way to go. (Subchapter E 175.65 (h))

I think they mean spacer spacers, like the kind you slide over the studs but still use the studs. at least that is what they call a spacer in kansas.

[Lripka1950]

Well I just pulled out all the extras for the truck and I must say I just had X-Mass early but there are some things that are missing. But there is a lot i don't need to purchase.

[Lripka1950]

Well looks like the paperwork is from Michigan originally so shouldn't be too much hassle to have that transfered here to pa and updated.
Looks like from all the patch pannels and extras that he had the cab is pretty much covered, he actually just offered me a manifold for the engine that's in the truck now.
I will say that the floor and about 1/4 to 1/2 of the firewall is missing rusted off. He said 2 of the pannels he had were for the floor but I wouldn't know myself just by looking at them.

[joedoh]

looks like you have most of it except rear bumper brackets!

the floor pieces are the two big L's, one has a circle hole and one has a big rectangle hole

[lower50's]

It's nice to get all the parts with it. Makes getting it together go faster.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Lripka1950

Well looks like the paperwork is from Michigan originally so shouldn't be too much hassle to have that transfered here to pa and updated.
Looks like from all the patch pannels and extras that he had the cab is pretty much covered, he actually just offered me a manifold for the engine that's in the truck now.
I will say that the floor and about 1/4 to 1/2 of the firewall is missing rusted off. He said 2 of the pannels he had were for the floor but I wouldn't know myself just by looking at them.

A clean title is very handy. Mine was from Oklahoma. I had to get an inspection mechanic to my house to validate that the cab plate was correct with the title. So make sure that plate is on there. Also if the title doesn't have a weight rating, the inspection mechanic will have to verify the weight. PA form MV-41 is the one you're looking for.

I only say all this because there is no point in spending any more money until you know you're able to drive the finished product.

Awesome parts pile there. I see the two floor panels. the passenger side has the big opening for the traditional battery box cover. I don't see the battery box cover

No grill? I see the air dam for the grill though.

Steering column but no wiring harness. You might be better off just getting a wiring harness and steering column than trying to make that steering column work. If you're really keen on trying to use the S10 harness, I have one that I'm not going to use cause I went the route of getting a generic harness.

Brake booster but no pedal assembly from the S10. That's a bummer.

Nice to see the core support since you'll be able to use that to hang the front fenders for when you set the cab on its mounts and get everything lined up.

[NorCalGal]

The best thing to start with is an assembly manual

[Lripka1950]

I will be getting manuals ordered by the weekend, yes there is still some things missing, like mainly the grill. But hopefully once I have the manual, and a new welder, I will get to cracking on the frame and body, I will be dropping the rear end to do the flip flop on the frame it is a shortbed s10.

[joedoh]

I bet the guy has the grille on the wall in his garage haha. they are super popular wall hangers.

[Lripka1950]

That's a $350.00 dollar piece of art that needs to be on the front of a truck

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Lripka1950

I will be getting manuals ordered by the weekend, yes there is still some things missing, like mainly the grill. But hopefully once I have the manual, and a new welder, I will get to cracking on the frame and body, I will be dropping the rear end to do the flip flop on the frame it is a shortbed s10.

What are your thoughts on a welder? I tried to go the 110v route with a Lincoln 140 and was less than impressed with the results on welding the frame. I then went with a Hobart 190 and will never turn back. I run the welder off my dryer plug and a 50ft extension cable. It burns awesome for the thick stuff like frame mounts. I did a little body work on a lower setting and welded my transmission tunnel in the cab. All very nice even for an amateur.

Don't skimp on this tool. You'll use it a ton!

[Lripka1950]

Yea I was already looking and I'm up in the air right now, that's one thing I know I will be dropping some cash on but I will be using it a lot.

[joedoh]

I like the lincolns, 19 years ago for my birthday I bought a Lincoln 170T which is the same as a 170 plus with MIG but without infinite adjustable heat (it has 5 or 6 click settings). since then I have worked on about 30 trucks with it. it makes anyone look like a pro, its very confidence inspiring.

a lot of guys like Miller too, which I think is a good brand if just a little overhyped, and I have heard that Hobarts are Miller guts, so they are good too.

I say get a 220V MIG setup because you can always turn it down, but you can never turn a 110 flux UP. MIG is so much nicer for sheetmetal too. dot. dot. dot. dotdotdotdot. dot. oh look I am 1% done. :\