C-notch with centered rear

[hewittca]

Hi guys. I'm debating on if I should build my own notch or if an off the shelf one would work. I was hoping someone would have some insight or experience with a standard c-notch to answer these questions.

1. My truck will have a total rear drop of about 7" and I was thinking about shifting the rearend 1" back to center the wheels in the wheel opening. I'm wondering if I were to go with a standard c-notch, would there be enough room in the notch to account for this?

2. My truck will be static and I am trying to get the ride height to a very specific setup, so I'm trying to account for every variable. I noticed all the standard notches have a piece that extends under the spring mounting location. It looks like this would add about 1/4" to the height of the truck. Does anyone know why this piece is necessary and if this has practically changed the ride height at all?

Here's the CPP notch which is pretty much what they all look like. Thanks for any help!

[hewittca]

Well I answered question two after just getting under the truck and looking at things a little closer. There’s already a spring mount plate under the spring that gets removed and replaced by the extension on the notch, so no real effect on ride height.

I’m still thinking about question one though. I wonder if there’s a good way to widen the notch in the standard bolt in notch to make room for moving the rearend back 1”.

[BossHogg69]

I'm using that same CPP notch, 7.5" rear static drop (6" spring, 1.5" blocks) with a PB Fab adjustable trailing arm cross member. I moved the axle back roughly 1", and everything still lines up fine in the notch.

I don't have any pics with the suspension fully compressed against the bump stop. I changed from the small puck style bump stops that came with the CPP notch to a taller Prothane bump stop to keep the rear housing from hitting the bottom of the wood bed.

[Rod Run]

If you are going to do your own fabrication, there is no reason to build an entire notch type assembly. Just box and cut a notch in your frame, weld it up and be done.

That would actually be much easier and quicker than trying to duplicate one of the notches on the market and your frame would be stronger too

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by BossHogg69

I'm using that same CPP notch, 7.5" rear static drop (6" spring, 1.5" blocks) with a PB Fab adjustable trailing arm cross member. I moved the axle back roughly 1", and everything still lines up fine in the notch.

I don't have any pics with the suspension fully compressed against the bump stop. I changed from the small puck style bump stops that came with the CPP notch to a taller Prothane bump stop to keep the rear housing from hitting the bottom of the wood bed.

Perfect, that’s exactly what I was looking for. I think I’ll go this route.