Red Line?

[Lobo'74]

I have no idea what my redline is. I need some thoughts from y'all on what is a reasonable redline to use. I want to use the engine up to its potential, but don't want to overrev it either.

PO said he guessed it was about 6000. I don't take it above 5000 now because I don't know what it is. Its very strong and would pull well past 5 grand. Specs for my '79 4 bolt main 350 are:

Description of 350 engine in 1967 Chevy truck

350 Chevy V8, 4-bolt mains, with the following mods:
Machining work done by Terry Walters precision engines, Roanoke, VA.
Bored .030 over = 355 cubic inch
Align bored
Parallel top of block
New cam bearings
New freeze plugs
New hypereutectic pistons, flat top
Reconditioned connecting rods
Crankshaft main and rod journals ground .010 under
Rotating assembly balanced
Double roller timing chain
Melling high volume, high pressure oil pump (Melling thinks it is the M55-HV oil pump)
Speed Pro cam: Intake 224 deg dur, .450” lift; Exhaust 224 deg dur, .460” lift
New hydraulic lifters and push rods
World Industries part #012250-1 Sportsman II cylinder heads with 72cc chambers (9.5 to 1 compression), stainless steel valves 2.02 intake, 1.6 exhaust, heavy-duty valve springs, screw-in studs, guide plates
Crane part #11744-16 roller rocker arms (Rollers on both fulcrum and tip)
Edelbrock # 1470 750 CFM 4-barrel carburetor
Edelbrock performer RPM aluminum intake manifold
HEI distributor (Late-70’s style)
Dyna-max Headers


Note: For correct tune-up parts, such as spark plugs, cap, rotor, coil, plug wires, use parts made for a 1979 Chevy C10 pickup 350 Cu in. engine. This also applies to accessories such as the alternator, water pump, thermostat, radiator, clutch disk, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and transmission. The power steering pump and gearbox are from a 1985 Chevy truck.


I think it is over carb'ed with the 750 cfm. When you stand on it it initially bogs down for a second then revs up. I think it dumps more gas than the engine can use until it really revs up.

Any thoughts on this too?

Thanks.

[cableguy0]

with that cam the motor probably peaks out at around 5800 or so which wont hurt anything as long as the assembly was balanced as yours is. in my opinion shift it just b4 it starts to stop pulling and thats your redline forget what the tach says let ur @ss tell ya when it stops pulling. actually you need that much carb for that motor any less and it would probably run lean. that bog could be because of not enough fuel when u kick it in the @ss. see where the accelerator pump rod is now (which hole its in) closer to the carb is a bigger pump shot farther away is smaller. i believe from the factory they come with the smallest pump shot. just pull the little clip and move it up a hole and go for a ride if it improves go one more and see if that fixes it

[Longhorn Man]

5800 is nothing for a small block. in reality though, the crank is only made for 5500, but how often you gonna actually hit 5800?
Heck, I've spun mine to 7000 a couple times. Bout crapped my self both times too.

[redbowtie]

RPM is limited by valve float normally, and the ability of your parts to make usable power at any given point. Good valve springs are a must for higher rpms.

That cam is fairly mild, and probably won't make much more power over 5800-6K.

Is that advertised duration? What is it at .050?

[cableguy0]

redbowtie that has to be the duration @.050 if it was advertised that cam would be wayyyy smaller than a stock cam. a stock cast crank can hold up to 7500rpm every now and again but ya cant make it a daily habit. hell mine sees over 6 on a daily basis stock cast crank stock rods and hypereutectic pistons havent had one single problem but the assembly is balanced. those hydarulic lifters will start acting up before there is a problem with the springs. basic rule for a hydraulic lifter is its gonna not make power over 6500rpm