Removing Choke And Throttle knobs 67 cluster

[1968k20]

I need to remove the cluster out of my 67. How do I remove the knobs off of the choke and throttle. How do I do that?

[too much stuff]

For the choke, pull it out a little bit and hold onto the metal rod with a pliers and unscrew it. For a manual throttle, there will be a little set screw going in sideways like a wiper knob.

[1968k20]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

For the choke, pull it out a little bit and hold onto the metal rod with a pliers and unscrew it. For a manual throttle, there will be a little set screw going in sideways like a wiper knob.

Thank you!

[67chevemall]

Thank you. Big help.
Why would they want to make them all the same.....

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by too much stuff

For the choke, pull it out a little bit and hold onto the metal rod with a pliers and unscrew it. For a manual throttle, there will be a little set screw going in sideways like a wiper knob.

Has anyone got any other ideas on this.? My choke knob just spins and has no set screw either.

I also thought about disconnecting the choke cable from the carb and pulling it through, but the cable has a little bend on the crab end.

I'm troubleshooting my fuel gauge and just want a little peek in. Not wanting to buy a choke cable.

[Getter-Done]

If you are just wanting to pull the instrument cluster out a little bit,
You can remove the screw in the cable clamp on the carb.

That is an aftermarket choke cable.
Hope this helps.

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by Getter-Done

If you are just wanting to pull the instrument cluster out a little bit,
You can remove the screw in the cable clamp on the carb.

That is an aftermarket choke cable.
Hope this helps.
Attachment 2176970

Thanks..!! That does help.

[kitsbeach]

I managed to get my hands in behind and there was a nut on back that I could loosen and get some room to see in.

It is an aftermarket cable.

Looks like i could disconnect from the carb end and thread the whole cable assembly out, but I just need a peek in to see if my fuel gauge wires are all intact.





Sorry for the sideways pictures.!!

[LockDoc]

-
There are no actual wires that go to the fuel gauge. There is a printed circuit board on the back of the cluster. What problem are you having with your fuel gauge?

LockDoc

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

-
There are no actual wires that go to the fuel gauge. There is a printed circuit board on the back of the cluster. What problem are you having with your fuel gauge?

LockDoc

Hey LockDoc…thanks for asking.!

I think I have it figured out.

I’ve read the other fuel gauge threads and did some sleuthing, and it seems I don’t have a connection between the gauge and the back of the fuse panel.

I haven’t had the stock gauge or tank since I’ve owned the truck. It was a saddle tank and an under dash gauge.

Now I’m installing a rear tank and wanting to have the stock gauge working.

The stock gauge has been pinned at Full (or beyond), which I understand is typical if the sender is not connected (grounded). I plugged a wire from the “fuel ga” spot on the fuse panel to a good ground and the gauge still did not move with the key on.

Then I pulled the gauge panel (with some help from the guys above) and connected the sender terminal to a good ground and BINGO the gauge drops to Empty. I can toggle the gauge from Empty to Full by grounding or un-grounding the sender terminal on the fuel gauge.

It seems there’s a break somewhere between the gauge and the fuse panel. Maybe the printed circuit panel, maybe somewhere else. But it seems to work if I just run a wire straight from the sender to the gauge terminal, so that’s what I’m going to do.

The rest of this “survivor” gauge panel works great, so I think I’ll leave it alone.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Hey LockDoc…thanks for asking.!

I think I have it figured out.

I’ve read the other fuel gauge threads and did some sleuthing, and it seems I don’t have a connection between the gauge and the back of the fuse panel.

I haven’t had the stock gauge or tank since I’ve owned the truck. It was a saddle tank and an under dash gauge.

Now I’m installing a rear tank and wanting to have the stock gauge working.

The stock gauge has been pinned at Full (or beyond), which I understand is typical if the sender is not connected (grounded). I plugged a wire from the “fuel ga” spot on the fuse panel to a good ground and the gauge still did not move with the key on.

Then I pulled the gauge panel (with some help from the guys above) and connected the sender terminal to a good ground and BINGO the gauge drops to Empty. I can toggle the gauge from Empty to Full by grounding or un-grounding the sender terminal on the fuel gauge.

It seems there’s a break somewhere between the gauge and the fuse panel. Maybe the printed circuit panel, maybe somewhere else. But it seems to work if I just run a wire straight from the sender to the gauge terminal, so that’s what I’m going to do.

The rest of this “survivor” gauge panel works great, so I think I’ll leave it alone.

Let us know how that works after you get it all wired up and fuel in the tank. That would be good to know.

LockDoc

[kitsbeach]

Originally Posted by LockDoc

Let us know how that works after you get it all wired up and fuel in the tank. That would be good to know.

LockDoc

Got 'er done LockDoc.!

Gauge is working perfectly. Basically just wired it directly from back of gauge straight to the sender. I also made sure I had good grounds on the tank.

I poured 2-3 gallons and it showed close to Empty (slightly lower). I added ten gallons (for a total 0f 12-13) and it now shows 3/4 tank. The tank I am using is a Tanks Inc. 18 gallon tank, so the result is pretty close to what I'd expect.

I had also set my sender float a tiny bit low, as I plan to leave a bit of room in the tank to make it easier for it to vent. So say if I have 12 gallons in a 16 gallon tank my gauge is dead on.

Thanks for all the help guys.!

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by kitsbeach

Got 'er done LockDoc.!

Gauge is working perfectly. Basically just wired it directly from back of gauge straight to the sender. I also made sure I had good grounds on the tank.

I poured 2-3 gallons and it showed close to Empty (slightly lower). I added ten gallons (for a total 0f 12-13) and it now shows 3/4 tank. The tank I am using is a Tanks Inc. 18 gallon tank, so the result is pretty close to what I'd expect.

I had also set my sender float a tiny bit low, as I plan to leave a bit of room in the tank to make it easier for it to vent. So say if I have 12 gallons in a 16 gallon tank my gauge is dead on.

Thanks for all the help guys.!

Good deal. Glad you got it under control...

LockDoc