53 years young

['65fleetSide]

I was gifted a 1965 Chevrolet C30 fleet side that hasn't ran since at least 1992. Everything is in acceptable shape considering the elements of being outside in CA weather. According to my Uncle he had did an engine swap with a 68 Camaro and went from a 230 to a 292. However, I read the number stamped on the block and it comes back to a 1970-72 250. If there is an easy way to confirm this it would be greatly appreciated. I am super stoked to bring it back to life and completely restore it back to its original beauty.
As of yesterday I installed a new Summit Racing Distributor and plug wires and she fired right up. (What a beautiful sound) There is oil in it and so although I don't know much about old cars I do no the basics of machines.

I am just here for any information on where to go from here as far as electrical, fuses, transmission fluids, engine oil, engine components, Ill take any advice I can get, thank you in advance and I look forward to sharing my restoration.

[Bomp]

Nice looking C30.
Welcome.

[raidmagic]

Wow that's a pretty dang good gift. I look forward to following your work.

[shp4man]

That's for sure a 70's era engine. And a GMC hood. Is the dash a Chevy or a GMC?
250's are pretty good engines.
I did my truck as a driver- just replaced or repaired stuff as needed. It turned into a fun vehicle. Drove it to work today.

[Short 3/4]

Easy way to tell 250 from 292 is side covers are taller on a 292 (6"). If shorter it's a 250. Both great engines. The 292 has more power, but the 250 will wind out a little further, which you may prefer as that truck has some really low gears, probably 4.56
Enjoy your new project, keep it simple and refurbish original parts whenever you can and you will have a lot of fun and learn a lot.

['65fleetSide]

Originally Posted by shp4man

That's for sure a 70's era engine. And a GMC hood. Is the dash a Chevy or a GMC?
250's are pretty good engines.
I did my truck as a driver- just replaced or repaired stuff as needed. It turned into a fun vehicle. Drove it to work today.

Thanks I figured it had to be a 250 based on the information I googled and the characteristics of it also, but thanks for helping clarify. Ill double check the dash but I am pretty sure its chevy, Ive spent more time focused under the hood than in the cab (naive noob). But I didn't know the hood came from a GMC? Will that affect any of the lighting then or will it be interchangeable with a Chevy?

['65fleetSide]

Thanks to everyone for their information, I am hoping to update every week or so.

['65fleetSide]

Originally Posted by Short 3/4

Easy way to tell 250 from 292 is side covers are taller on a 292 (6"). If shorter it's a 250. Both great engines. The 292 has more power, but the 250 will wind out a little further, which you may prefer as that truck has some really low gears, probably 4.56
Enjoy your new project, keep it simple and refurbish original parts whenever you can and you will have a lot of fun and learn a lot.

Yea my uncle forgets his own information a lot so I take it all with a grain of salt. He did say the rear end is 4.11 which I am not even sure is a real gear, but I am not sure how to tell.

[Chevy Fleetside]

4.11's are real. Maybe used in an automatic trucks (at least that is where I have seen them) otherwise 4.56's
There might be a tag on the rear diff and if not you have to look at the ring gear and there will be numbers stamped on it, or just count the ring gear teeth and pinion gear teeth and divide the two.

['65fleetSide]

Originally Posted by Chevy Fleetside

4.11's are real. Maybe used in an automatic trucks (at least that is where I have seen them) otherwise 4.56's
There might be a tag on the rear diff and if not you have to look at the ring gear and there will be numbers stamped on it, or just count the ring gear teeth and pinion gear teeth and divide the two.

Alright Ill do that thanks.

[geezer#99]

Easier way to tell whether it’s a 292 or not is position of fuel pump. On a 292 it’s behind the motor mount.
Did you use a dedicated 12v power supply for your new hei?

['65fleetSide]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Easier way to tell whether it’s a 292 or not is position of fuel pump. On a 292 it’s behind the motor mount.
Did you use a dedicated 12v power supply for your new hei?

I pick up a "refurbished," battery from a discount battery store, but I don't have the money yet for a good powerful battery. Ill check out the fuel pump location.

[geezer#99]

Battery doesn’t matter.
What I meant was that your new distributor needs 12v power to it to run right. That means that you can’t hook it up to the original wire. The original wire is a resistance wire that only supplies 8 or 9volts to the distributor. I see you had an older hei installed. Maybe but not likely, the wire was already changed.
Not hard to see in your pics that the pump is in front of the mount making it a 230 or 250. The other clue to your story is that Camaro’s never got a 292 from the factory.

['65fleetSide]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Battery doesn’t matter.
What I meant was that your new distributor needs 12v power to it to run right. That means that you can’t hook it up to the original wire. The original wire is a resistance wire that only supplies 8 or 9volts to the distributor. I see you had an older hei installed. Maybe but not likely, the wire was already changed.
Not hard to see in your pics that the pump is in front of the mount making it a 230 or 250. The other clue to your story is that Camaro’s never got a 292 from the factory.

That makes sense about the engine being a 250. To be honest with the wire Im not sure, I know with the old distributor the wires were pretty frail but Im not sure if its a 12 volt wire, but yes I did hook up the original wire to the BATT side of the HEI.

[geezer#99]

Simply follow the wire to the junction box on the firewall.
If it’s cloth covered and the wire looks like aluminum, it’s the resistance wire.
Your hei will function with it but the module might overheat.

[TJ's Chevy]

You've got a 250 there buddy.

['65fleetSide]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Simply follow the wire to the junction box on the firewall.
If it’s cloth covered and the wire looks like aluminum, it’s the resistance wire.
Your hei will function with it but the module might overheat.

Ok I'll check it out and if anything Ill replace it with a stronger wire. Do you know is there anything with the fuses I should look into? Because I could not find very much information on the fuse size or what they would even function. I don't have a manual or anything for the truck when my uncle gave it to me.

[geezer#99]

Usually you can read the fuse amps and what they’re for on the fuse box.
Of course after 50 years they might be a bit fuzzy.

['65fleetSide]

Ok I will have to get in there and take a closer look then.
Would you know anything on the bolt pattern for the 8 lug??

[geezer#99]

IIRC it’s 8x6.5.

['65fleetSide]

Thank god for advil cuz this truck is giving me a headache.

[DPowers]

Originally Posted by '65fleetSide

Thank god for advil cuz this truck is giving me a headache.

We can all relate.

['65fleetSide]

This maybe a dumb question but does the oil pressure always drop between startups? While trying to start it the oil pressure slowly goes up but then when I turn it off and go to turn it back on right after, the pressure has gone back to 0. *I have yet to get it started, I have to rebuild the carb but then all should be good to go*

[shp4man]

Originally Posted by '65fleetSide

This maybe a dumb question but does the oil pressure always drop between startups? While trying to start it the oil pressure slowly goes up but then when I turn it off and go to turn it back on right after, the pressure has gone back to 0. *I have yet to get it started, I have to rebuild the carb but then all should be good to go*

If I understand your question, yes the oil pressure should creep up with the starter spinning the engine, then go to 0 slowly after you stop cranking.

It's a GOOD thing the oil pressure gauge moves at cranking RPM.

Does it try to run and backfire/sputter or does it just crank with no try at all?

['65fleetSide]

Yes as I am cranking the engine over it slowly creeps up but I was just unsure if it is supposed to drop so rapidly after the engine is off. The engine hasn't yet been started and able to idle so I have not seen the pressure stabilize yet. Hopefully after this weekend I can get everything in order and put the carb back in and pray to some divine entity it starts.