Head swap questions

[mobileortho]

Need some guidance. I'm doing a vortec head and cam swap on a basic 190 horse engine I bought a couple of years ago. I don't think I have 500 miles on it but I just want to get some more ponies out of it. Although I've done 95% of the work on my truck this is my 1st attempt at taking an engine apart.
1. I see conflicting info on reusing the head bolts, should I replace them? What sealant to use on them?
2. Cleaning the old gasket material off the block. How do you keep the material from getting into the oil & coolant passages.
3. Currently using TPI but thinking about switching back to a carb. Anyone using the Demon 625 & if so, how do you like it?

[mr48chev]

I started working on engines way before anyone ever considered replacing the head bolts on a valve job or rebuild. On that engine with Iron heads off and iron heads on I don't think you would ever see a problem. The problem is with these newer engines that have the one time use bolts that are actually stretched when you get them torqued right. They ones you torque to X lbs and then turn so much further beyond that.

I and most others always cover the lifter galley with shop rags when we start scraping gaskets. That and just be careful when you do it.

One thing that will save you a mess is to go under it and take out the two plugs that you drain the block with and drain the block before taking the heads off. That keeps coolant out of where you don't want it when you pull the heads along with saving the mess on the shop floor. Saves cleanup in the engine and on the floor.

The Vortec heads are going to need an intake designed for Vortec heads but if the fi works good now I would seriously think about staying with it as you will loose gas mileage and probably some performance going to a carb. Plus you loose the turn the key and fire up thing you have with the fi and have to learn the ins and outs of starting it with a carb and every carb has it's ritual for starting it seems. I'm debating going to Fi that outwardly looks like a carb just for the mileage and ease of start factors on my 292. The cost over a carb is the issue in debate.

[mobileortho]

Thanks for the info. I've been back & forth on the tpi. The plan is to eventually go with a self tuning EFI like the Fast or Sniper units so that I won't have to worry about reprogramming the chip. The only place left to find a vortec tpi intake is Scoggins since Edelbrock discontinued theirs and when you do find one they're a bit pricey. One just sold on E-bay for $500 used. The only concern with the Scoggin intake is the flow. According to them, they were designed for the stock runners and I have the high flow Edelbrock.

[mobileortho]

Pending purchase on a Vortec TPI base!

[dsraven]

I'm with mr48, go fuel injection.
no gas smell on a hot engine
no choke issues
no altitude issues
starts well cold, hot, warm etc
better fuel mileage
leave the cats on or get high perf cats so you don't stink like raw fuel, the computer knows what you have, and everybody behind you can enjoy the view without cussing you out for the smell. they may actually spend some time next to you while they check out the ride instead of trying to get ahead of you and cussing you for driving a "wreck" (in their minds).

some guys think they would rather have a carb than deal with fuel injection codes etc. I can see that to some degree but really, modern injection systems aren't that hard to figure out compared to rejetting a carb or recurving a distributor. grab a book on basic fuel injection systems and give it a read, about the same thickness as reading through how to rebuild and rejet a holly plus recurve a distributor and set base and max timing etc.

[mobileortho]

I have the TPI pretty much figured out. I was looking to install a simpler setup with out as much wiring. I've located a Vortec TPI manifold for now, but may be switching to the newer EFI systems down the road.

[mobileortho]

I finally got the Scoggins Vortec intake, but I've run into another issue. I got the heads on but having an issue with priming. Using a drill mounted priming tool, I got the drivers side lifters/rockers to bleed, but nothing on the passenger side. Anyone have any ideas?

[Richard2112]

I do not know if this runs off the subject or not but it is a question on vortec heads so if I may....Does anyone know if standard 350 valve covers can fit on a vortec head? Can the perimeter bolts be drilled and tapped? Sorry if this is off base.

[Jemezcrusher]

Originally Posted by Richard2112

I do not know if this runs off the subject or not but it is a question on vortec heads so if I may....Does anyone know if standard 350 valve covers can fit on a vortec head? Can the perimeter bolts be drilled and tapped? Sorry if this is off base.

Vortec heads have bolts located in the center of the covers.

[Richard2112]

Originally Posted by Jemezcrusher

Vortec heads have bolts located in the center of the covers.

Yes sir, I am aware. I prefer my older style valve covers though and was wondering if they would have the same perimeter shape and if the surface at the perimeter was sufficient to allow for drill/tap.

[dsraven]

doubt it but try a parts store and compare the gasket's perimeter shape.

[_Ogre]

many aftermarket adapters available to convert vortec bolt pattern to the perimeter pattern

[1project2many]

mobileortho, you do not need to make oil flow out of the pushrods before starting the engine. The lifters will pump oil as they move after the engine is started. Make sure the rockers and balls are lubed, make sure there is lube on both ends of the pushrods, and put a little lube on top of the valves. 15W40 is good for this initial lube but cam lube or STP mixed with ZDDP additive will work also.

I'm glad to see you're sticking with EFI. It will pay you back with less required work over the years.

[_Ogre]

EFI. It will pay you back with less required work over the years.

oh yeah, zero fuel maint in 12 years (other than fuel pump issues)

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by _Ogre

oh yeah, zero fuel maint in 12 years (other than fuel pump issues)

Yeah man! I just like the look of TPI too!

[Coupeguy2001]

The reason you have no oil flow on the right side, is the distributor is out of the engine.
The distributor creates a path for the rear oil galley hole, and in order to get the oil on the other side, you have to make a primer out of an old distributor, or buy one.

to make one,
Some guys weld a 3/8 rod to the top of the distributor shaft, and take off the gear on the bottom.
you want to drive the pump, not the cam