67C10 no drop, 5.3L truck LS oil pan ok?

[LH Lead-Foot]

Yep, another oil pan question, again.
Still in the planning stage, but haunted by all of the oil pan choices for use in the 1967 C10, stock front height. The donor is a 2003 Tahoe Gen3 truck engine. I can fabricate any motor mount for set back, height, etc. I have been looking thru hundreds of threads and various post, but I guess I am looking for photos of a truck oil pan in the truck. I know this is an old issue in the LS swap community, but suggestions are welcome.

I will be using P235/75R16 that add just a little height and thought about a little "Skid plate" on the cross-member, but no going fast down gravel roads. It's just my wallet is almost empty.

The H3/Colorado/Canyon oil pan kit is being sold around $200, that includes dip stick, tube, gasket and tray. It appears to be about 7.5" deep instead of the 8.5" truck pan. My build is not wild so nothing new on top, no turbo but a simple automatic trans that I build last year before the Tahoe fell into my lap.

After years as an ASE Master, my knees won't work with a clutch anymore, so I build a 700r4 into a 4L65 non-electric heavy duty unit. Just to last.

Once again, any and all photo's using a truck pan in a 67 up C10 type frame will help set my mind at ease. Thanks!
Retired dude looking for one for a fuel injected reliable long term daily driver.

[Steve Cole]

Hi, I don't have any pics for you but I have looked into this. Some people are running the truck pan on lowered trucks so if you are at stock height, you won't have any problems. I didn't like the pan hanging below the cross member so I changed it. It was more of an appearance thing than a scrubbing thing, but my truck is also lowered. If you are on a budget and already have a truck pan, try it. You can always swap it later.

[First c10]

My sons truck is lowered 3.5 in the front and 5 in the rear.
it has the stock oil pan. it has never had a problem. It does hang below the crossmember but we have never had an issue.
I don't have a picture sorry!
The truck is a long bed. I did change the 6L80E transmission pan from a truck pan to a car pan because the truck trans pan had a few dents in it.

[jessemthompson]

I have the factory 5.3 oil pan in my 72 and it does Not hang below the crossmember. It may be due to running ECE motor mounts, but I haven’t had any issues. My truck is also dropped 4.5”s up front.

[ls1nova71]

My factory 5.3 truck pan hangs down about an inch or so past the crossmember, but my truck is stock height and I have not had a problem in the 35k miles I've put on it. That said, the pan in my Nova is actually above the crossmember, and I hit a rock in downtown Kansas City in the middle of the road and the crossmember rolled over it and when it did, it came down hard on the pan and busted a big hole in it, so anything can happen.....

[LH Lead-Foot]

Thanks to all that help to answer. I will look into the ECE mounts as I have seen discussed in several post. I prefer to go with a GM pan as the LS series of engines, regardless of HP, the oil pan is engineered to add stiffness to the block. The mount flange thickness, flat mounting surface for sealing, with aligning the rear oil seal flange & T-Chain cover is included in all of the factors that make this a series of engines for the 21st century. Still, any pix's will be welcome, as I pull the old and settle the new into it's new home for positioning. I think I will be able to post pix's of the build as I am creating a service manual to go with the vehicle. Imports where good about summarizing a service chapter with a system description, connector numbers for end views, location of splices and identification photos showing location in the vehicle. Thanks again to the community for the hundreds of technical years of knowledge, and current advice. Retired ASE Master Tech

[solidaxel]

When you are finished with your service manual, is there a chance you will share the results with the folks on the forum?

[LH Lead-Foot]

I am hard pressed to get anything done, but the project will come together over a period of time. Retired against my will, due to bad elbows, 3 lumbar fusions, failed 2018 lumbar RFA (Radio Frequency Nerve Ablation) to stop the burning, knuckle feels broken cause by arthritis, etc. Oh yea, my 33 year old youngest son showed up with an 86 SS Monte that won't accelerate or shift into 3rd. Other than that...I'm OK!
I use power point to create my wiring diagrams, connector ends views, photos to show location and ID. The one thing I am doing, few have tried, is the BCM. Lots of wiring, but using passenger side 90's Buick Lesabre fuse/relay centers that are rectangular and are easy to mount w/16 relays-12 fuses each. All mounted in water proof box in drivers front engine bay, up top, side by side for easy access & color match painted metal cover.
The BCM provides OEM RKE, Content theft, power window control, locks, etc. I have employed the DDM module inside a center console, Velcro center cover in leather / floor shift, using custom switches to operate the modules function, keeping them intact for access for replacement if needed, OEM wire connectors and VIN # for programming. The PDM is placed out of the way, but wired into the network because it is the receiver for the RKE. TAC module for cruise and my custom built 700r4 with kolene steels, alto friction, pin-less servos and Delco 5 pinion planetarys gear sets, etc. I also sew my own interior covers using a JUKI that has an aluminum oil pan with pump. I put a gear reduction belt setup on it because it sews like a weed eater at WOT or 12" - 16" a second.
Crazy goals, but you live once.

[kipps]

I'd be interested in hearing more about your BCM adventures if you have a chance. I'm still intrigued by the thought of using the donor dash and fuel pump systems, which I understand require the use of the BCM.

[rustycars63]

I am also interested in your bcm adventure I too will try to use it on my 2005 5.3 going in 1949 truck. Let us know how its going.

[ls1nova71]

I've done BCM swaps on 3 cars now, and although it isn't incredibly hard, it does take a certain understanding of how electric circuits work, and how to read a schematic. It's not as easy as making an engine harness stand alone, where you just put power to what needs power.
This is what it looks like in my rusty green truck, it's thinned down a lot since all I used it for was the automatic headlights, dome light delay, RAP (retained accessory power), headlight minder and the chime for the park brake and if you leave a turn signal on for like a mile or so. I put one in my '59 Chevy wagon and was going to use the remote receiver for power door locks, but it got way too crowded under the dash of that car.

There are more pics in the build thread of my rusty 71 in my sig starting at post #95. At post #249 are the schematics for the '99-'02 BCM.

[67pete300]

Originally Posted by ls1nova71

it's thinned down a lot since all I used it for was the automatic headlights, dome light delay, RAP (retained accessory power), headlight minder and the chime for the park brake and if you leave a turn signal on for like a mile or so.

There are more pics in the build thread of my rusty 71 in my sig starting at post #95. At post #249 are the schematics for the '99-'02 BCM.

Ls1nova71, can you point me towards any discussion of making the stock donor gauge package work? I see you aren’t doing that and anecdotally it sounds like it is hard, but I’m having trouble finding details.

Thanks

[LH Lead-Foot]

My reference to "Others have done this" is LS1nova, who has a great deal of work in this area. One he thing he mentioned is warning chimes. When not using the OEM radio, I bought a $38 radio interface that comes with OEM radio connector. It uses power, ground and serial data the BCM sends for warnings. The rate of the warning chime falls into 4 speeds and uses the OEM left front speaker. This module provides it's own speaker, plugs right in with correct color wires and is intended for an aftermarket radio, using the OEM wiring as found in the donor vehicle. Having this tone generator, creates a warning for leaving the turn signals on while driving, door ajar, key-in, door open, lights on, etc. The advantages of using the OEM BCM has advantages like if you fabricate brackets to hold micro-switches, key-in signal (This and power modes are the hardest), but will also have "Lock-out-Prevention". Say What???
Well, if the key is in the ignition, engine off and you open the door, this ends advertant power which keeps items of your choice powered when off. But if you hit the lock button, it will create a warning chime, then in-lock the doors to keep you from locking for a coat hanger. It all cool. Also, the after market sells a simple module using the OEM key fobs, if you push lock 3 times, it will start the vehicle. That's a brand MPC that runs about $130. I am lucky to have GM eSi for wiring all of these parts to function.
The BCM uses ground to control relays and ground for most inputs, so it makes it easy to control what you want on a low current circuit. The design of placing relays/fuse under the hood, left side dash and under the rear seat, is the best practices of engineering to place these items as close to the devices they control. Reducing wire, weight and length of run which equal voltage drop, is greatly reduced. Heat & vibration damage a battery quicker than any environment, but placing it in the floor, behind or under a seat, most techs have told me the battery will last 8-10 years or more. There is a reason for many things...and some are good.