Hazard light wiring, need some help

[gigamanx]

Hey all. I went and did something dumb and broke the hazard light switch off my aftermarket steering column. In my defense, the switch is made of plastic!

I tried taking the steering column apart, no luck
I tried super gluing the switch back together in the steering column, no luck

So I finally need help in wiring an external hazard switch. I have a hot brown wire from my wiring harness that says hazard flasher. I pulled it from the GM column wiring harness. If I route that to a switch input, where does the output go? What am I powering? At first I thought I should ground it....bzzzzzt wrong.

What does the switch do internally? Do I need an external flasher relay attached to the left and right turn signal? Or is it something easier than that?

Keep it simple please, I really don't understand this stuff very well.

Maybe this guy is onto something: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X5Hu7RX3Nbk

[mr48chev]

Most of those aftermarket columns use a standard GM turn signal switch. Taking one apart to get to the switch shouldn't be all that hard. I think that on the switches with the flat connector on the end of the wires there are two styles of hazard buttons. the one that is fastened on with a screw and the one that is just a plastic piece sticking out.

On the other hand and to answer your question the do still auxillary 4 way flasher kits that are a switch with a built in flasher that you have to connect the wires from to you front and rear turn signal wires. I had one in my 55 Buick in 1966.

[Black_Sheep]

The simple solution would be to replace the TS switch.

[Softpatch]

super easy to make you owne circuit
1 fuse(10 A)
1 switch(SPST)
1 flasher(15A)
2 directional diodes

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by Softpatch

super easy to make you owne circuit
1 fuse(10 A)
1 switch(SPST)
1 flasher(15A)
2 directional diodes

Easy for some of us but beyond the scope of folks who haven't been around this stuff for years who are used to thinking outside of the box.

It's going to take four diodes unless you have brake lights that are separate from the turn lights to tie into.

Basically you would need leads with diodes to the "
left front turn right front turn, left rear stop/turn and right rear stop/turn.

Something like this would work https://www.ebay.com/itm/FLARESTAT-S....c100005.m1851

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

I tried taking the steering column apart, no luck]

aftermarket columns are based on 70s to 90s gm columns, imo you should just fix/replace the switch
the hardest thing to getting the column apart is the snap ring under the steering wheel
with all the videos out there it is very easy to watch a couple to see how the column comes apart
i did mine before youtube got big by asking a few gm techs before i disassembled the 86 astro column
i replaced the multifunction switch and ignition tumbler while i had it apart
you need a new multifunction switch, no guaranty the stop/turn lights will work without replacing the switch


so easy, even an ogre can do it

[dsraven]

yup, easier to just replace the switch. put a little "up" force on the column shaft from the bottom side so the shaft doesn't move down when the snap ring is removed, that way the ball bearings don't fall out or down the column.
-pull the wheel
-pull the snap ring (tool required to push down the flat strg lock plate, easily made or rented/borrowed/bought. google it for info)
-remove the strg lock plate from under the snap ring.
-check the switch to see what is broken. maybe the part from the new switch can be swapped for a quick job. if not, carry on to the next step.
-disconnect the wiring plug under the column, take a pic of where the wires go, then take the wires out of the plastic block to make it easier to pull up through the column. tie a wire or cord to the wiring so when the old switch is all drawn up through the column then you can tie the cord to the new wiring and pull the new wiring back down the column in the same track it is supposed to run through. don't put all the connectors in one place as you tie the cord/wire onto the harness or the ball up will be too big to pull up through the column. tape it all up so nothing gets stuck going through the chute.
-unscrew the switch, signal lever and the 4 way button, if there is anything left of it. jiggle the switch a bit as you pull outward. you will be pulling the wiring up the column as you pull the switch out.
-swap the card/wire with the new harness and gently tug the wiring through the column
-finish up the rest in reverse order. try the switch operation before going too far into it, just to be sure.

probably easier than doing the other mod, plus it works like it is supposed to, in case someone else needs to find the 4 ways.
-presto-done

[1project2many]

-pull the snap ring (tool required to push down the flat strg lock plate, easily made or rented/borrowed/bought. google it for info)

For years I did this task without the special tool. The secret is to use two sticks / screwdrivers / hammer handles on opposite sides of the plate to depress it to make room beneath the snap ring then use one hand to keep the plate held down while using the other to pop the snap ring. Yes, it is more work. But it can be done.

[mr48chev]

With the parts houses loan a tool programs it doesn't cost anything in the end to use one of their proper tools to hold the lock plate down and take the snap rig off. That makes it a simple process and the switch is right below the lock plate.

If you take a length of wire feed wire and tie the plug flat to the end of the harness and then tie it so you can have enough wire left that when you pull the switch and wire out of the column you can tie the wire to the plug on the new switch and gently pull it back down the column it saves a huge amount of frustration and hassle.

[gigamanx]

Thanks guys. All super helpful info. I did get to the snap ring but didn't realize that's how the section came out. Do I search for a hazard switch, or just replace that whole wiring harness contraption? I like the idea of replacing the guts because I was having shorts when I tilted the column anyway, so taking it apart I can kill two birds with one stone.

[_Ogre]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

For years I did this task without the special tool. The secret is to use two sticks / screwdrivers / hammer handles on opposite sides of the plate to depress it to make room beneath the snap ring then use one hand to keep the plate held down while using the other to pop the snap ring. Yes, it is more work. But it can be done.

a big washer and 2 big nuts worked for me
many ways to do it but like 1p2m says no specialty tool needed that you will use 1 time

[Black_Sheep]

Originally Posted by gigamanx

Thanks guys. All super helpful info. I did get to the snap ring but didn't realize that's how the section came out. Do I search for a hazard switch, or just replace that whole wiring harness contraption? I like the idea of replacing the guts because I was having shorts when I tilted the column anyway, so taking it apart I can kill two birds with one stone.

The hazard switch is part of the TS switch on a GM style column.

[1project2many]

There's this type of switch from a 60's to '70s vehicle which has the hazard switch button attached:


And this one from the '70s though the '90s which requires the button to be screwed on:



The wiring and all switches are included with both.

[gigamanx]

easier than expected thanks to the help here. There was no clip...just three screws that held the plastic thing.

Here's where its at now. The switches and wiring look like the second pic from 1project2many.








I just had a brilliant idea too. I was wondering where to find a 90s switch. Hey, I've got a steering column from the 1988 S10 donor in the back shed That's tomorrow's project.

[dsraven]

good idea to swap the switch out ifyou're having short issues with tilt. thats why I mentioned to use a wire to pull the old harness up so the new harness could be pulled back into the column in the right place. there should be a plastic sheath in the column that the wires run inside of.
does the column have a nut just above the bearing? never seen that before that I remember, just remember having to get a new bearing because the shaft dropped and the bearing rollers fell down the column tube. good idea.

make sure the signal lever fits the new switch or you have a lever that will work
funny pic but it looks like the odometer is open on your speedo?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by dsraven

good idea to swap the switch out ifyou're having short issues with tilt. thats why I mentioned to use a wire to pull the old harness up so the new harness could be pulled back into the column in the right place. there should be a plastic sheath in the column that the wires run inside of.
does the column have a nut just above the bearing? never seen that before that I remember, just remember having to get a new bearing because the shaft dropped and the bearing rollers fell down the column tube. good idea.

make sure the signal lever fits the new switch or you have a lever that will work
funny pic but it looks like the odometer is open on your speedo?

Column does have a nut just above the bearing, yes. When I was pulling on the wires, it did not feel like there was a plastic covering...there are marks along the wires where they are scratching against the metal. I guess I should try and add some sheathing while I'm at it.

I was wondering who might notice my awesome hand drawn speedometer. Its actually behind very clean glass, but yes the odometer is just hanging out there until I pony up the cash to get a proper set of gauges.

[_Ogre]

at least you have the $39 ts switch vs the newer $139 multifunction switches

that's one way to calibrate the speedo

[gigamanx]

ok new switch arrived. Plastic is pretty much the same shape although the click action is definitely nicer. There are more wires to it so I have to check the GM manual to find out what the others do.

Problem I face is the wires for the new harness are too short compared to the old one. They would barely make it to the opening in the steering column. Looks like I'll probably cut the end off each harness and splice the wires together with some solder and heat shrink instead of trying to pull the new wires through where the old wires went. Only leaves those extra wires as a problem since they don't plug into anything.

[dsraven]

looks like the signal arm goes in on a different angle as well. is that gonna screw you up?
was the new switch possibly from a vehicle with orange rear signal lights that are seperate from the normal stop/signal circuit?

[mr48chev]

I'd make sure that the switch fits before cutting any wires. I've had a lot of them apart an never had an issue with wire length. The wires usually go down to a pair of clips on the side of the column on stock columns and the aftermarket might have longer wires to be able to run the wires up under the dash.

[_Ogre]

the plastic plug is easily removed with a jewelers screwdriver
imo... asking for more trouble to scab all the wires together

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by dsraven

looks like the signal arm goes in on a different angle as well. is that gonna screw you up?
was the new switch possibly from a vehicle with orange rear signal lights that are seperate from the normal stop/signal circuit?

Good call dsraven. I had to order a different one to make the turn signal come out of the right place. The part number is

NAPA DL6187
G10 van column turn signal wiring harness

Thanks to another post for that info. Wiring harness went in ok. I had a bear of a time getting the old wiring out, so ended up having to splice the new switch with the old wiring in the column. All switches work great and I can now tilt the column without a short. Woohoo!

Here she is ready for inspection on Monday so I can drive her legally on PA roads.

[dsraven]

what are you using for a tail light on your truck? just thinking of what I will do with mine. it needs to have a reflector and a side marker light somewhere back there to pass inspection. I would like LED as well. is yours LED?

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by dsraven

what are you using for a tail light on your truck? just thinking of what I will do with mine. it needs to have a reflector and a side marker light somewhere back there to pass inspection. I would like LED as well. is yours LED?

I do have LED, but no reflector or side markers on there. You might have to install a separate side marker.

https://www.classicparts.com/1941-53...info/49-121LR/

I used the left and right of these. They work for brake, turn, and hazard lights. Has a license plate light under the left one. No backup light -- although, that's not required in PA if the vehicle wasn't originally equipped with backup lights.

[dsraven]

thanks for the prompt reply.
since I am doing a frame swap and the tags were taken off my 2 cabs during the disassembly mode (I called the inspector first and he said keep the tags and the bills of sale etc and I will be fine) the truck will need to be inspected by the insurance bureau of Canada. their inspector says he will inspect the vehicle and issue me a new 17 digit vin and install a new vin plate. the vehicle will be named "57 gmc" as the model but it is basically registered as a vehicle assembled from parts. he takes my old tags with him when he leaves. this all means that I have to conform to the new highway traffic lighting laws. lights and reflectors according to the new code, so reflectors, side markers etc. I want it to look like the old truck style, so not extra reflectors and stuff screwed on here and there. minimalist I guess, for a cleaner look I want to put all the lights in a single housing. I have been checking what guys are using and asking about those specific items. I may have to modify something. the back up lights will be an issue because I don't really have room for them unless under the bumper shining down. we'll see I guess.