Scarebird 1970 C10 Disc Brake Installation

[demian5]

I will document the installation of Scarebird brackets and recommended disc brake components (for 6-Lug) on my 1970 C10 pickup.

Cool thing is the truck will have 1996 Chevy light duty 3/4 ton front brakes (6-lug).

First I decided to install a New Master cylinder for a 1972 C10 with Disc Drum brakes and use a NEW CPP combo valve I had laying around. I did have to get adapters for the valve to get it to work with the stock brake lines. I also had to splice in the combo valve connector so the brake light will still work, in case of any pressure loss in the front or rear systems.

Check out my cool heat shield for the brake lines to protect from the headers. At one time I thought that was an issue I was having.

Note: The Master cylinder fittings are not even, the front fitting sits further in than the rear, so had to manipulate the lines and bracket for the Combo valve to get them to align.

Figured I would mock this up before bench bleeding the master as you all know how the fluid just runs all over when installing a bench bled master...

[demian5]

After getting the master and combo valve on, I decided to tear down the front brakes and get ready to install. Nothing like pulling off new drums, wheel cylinders, brake hoses, shoes, and springs/hardware to realize you should have waited to buy them since there was a disc brake conversion in the near future...

Well, it turns out I should install new upper and lower ball joints while i am at it, so that is next. Maybe ill do the outer tie rod ends too, but they aren't floppy like the ball joints...

And it appears the driver side bolt for the wheel cylinder was a not fully tight (rust).


Stay tuned for that and the install.

[demian5]

Well, still replacing bad parts. Was able to poly bushings for the stock swaybar, maybe ill get better handling.

So far have had to replace:
- Lower control arm shafts
- Upper and lower ball joints
- Sway bar bushings

Here are side threads for the new lower control arms shaft install and combo valve brake line adapter issues.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=762825

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=762513

[demian5]

Got it back together. Resolving a couple issues and will have a complete write up hopefully tomorrow.

The brakes stop phenomenal, however I believe I should install a dual servo booster as the single isn't designed for these large brakes.

More to come.

[demian5]

Ok Here we go:

The kit was fairly straight forward. Uses the stock spindle. Doesn't change the offset of the wheels either.
The kit uses 1995-1997 light 3/4 ton 2WD chevy/GMC front discs, calipers and pads. I cross referenced the numbers supplied and this is what I got. I used Centric brake parts and ceramic pads.
I chose a 1972 disc brake master and bolted it to my existing booster (which is the same part number as the 72 from what I researched).
I used a CPP combo valve and bought their brake line adapter for the rear brake line fitting, I had to hunt down the front adapter from the local Autozone.
- They send you two extra banjo bolts that are too long to use and bottom out in the caliper - use the ones that came with the calipers.
- The sleeves that go onto the spindle need to be tapped on carefully with a drift or punch (use care not to damage the spindle threads). As instructed, use locktite to keep them in place as they spin around once installed all the way into the rotor.
- Use inner wheel bearings for a 1970 C10 drum brake. The ones recommended didn't fit over the spindle easily.
- The inner brake pads had to be clearanced on the sides of the pad backing plate to slide into the bracket, but not too much.
- To fit the 15" wheels I had to grind down the outer two corners of the calipers. It's all metal, and this was to be expected, running a 15" wheel on brakes designed for a 16" wheel minimum.
- Torque those top bolts down to about 80-100 ft.lbs as instructed.
- My parts place had a 5 lug rotor in a 6-lug box (see image) so if you want to do 5-lug, can do as well...
- After driving around the block a couple times, re-adjust the front wheel bearings as they do seat a bit more after installing, and the clearances are so tight for the top bolt of the bracket, don't want any contact (as you can see I had - figured that one of the races seated a little more).


They stop phenomenally. What a difference. Only bummer is no backing plates. I figure I am into it for what it would cost for another kit, but I got the combo valve and master cyl too in my cost and can go to the local parts house and get any part I need. I didn't really want to go down another 2.5" either at this time.

[Jason Banks]

I would like to see pictures of these 'sleeves' that go on the spindle....

Actually it would be nice to see pictures of everything you get with the scarebird kit...since they don't have any on their site.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by Jason Banks

I would like to see pictures of these 'sleeves' that go on the spindle....

Actually it would be nice to see pictures of everything you get with the scarebird kit...since they don't have any on their site.

Its a spacer that basically pushes the bearing out further on the spindle about 3/16". Its the same diameter as the original spindle land where the bearing sits against and the seal rides on, just extends it.

You reuse your original spindle nut and washer and that's it.

Kit comes with:
2 Brackets (learned there are ones with a 5/8" upper hole and 3/4" upper hole depending on year of truck)
4 Lower bracket/steering arm nuts/bolts/washers
2 upper bracket bolts turned down to clear rotor
2 caliper brake hose banjo bolts
2 brake hose clips for hose-to-line bracket
2 inner bearing spacers
2 outer bearing inner sleeves
2 cotter pins
Instructions

[lolife99]

This is a good option for guys that are SURE they will never want drop spindles.
Otherwise you’ll be changing rotors, calipers, and bearings again when you install drop spindles.
Thanks for the very useful write-up!

[demian5]

Originally Posted by lolife99

This is a good option for guys that are SURE they will never want drop spindles.
Otherwise you’ll be changing rotors, calipers, and bearings again when you install drop spindles.
Thanks for the very useful write-up!

Perfect for trucks that will remain stock.