55.2-59 1957 Chevy 3100 Disc Brake Conversion

[burlysluggers]

Having a really difficult time finding a complete front disc conversion set for my 1957 Chevrolet 3100 Pickup.
If anyone has a link that you've used and installed and can vouch for it would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

[dsraven]

it would be great to know exactly what s you are after. a disc conversion for the stock axle comes in a couple of variations. some use the stock hub with rotors that slide over, some use new hubs and rotors that slip on, some use one piece rotor and hub combo's. how much do you have to spend and how much weight, H/P are you trying to stop. are you looking for something whizzie looking or you just wanna stop the truck. a complete kit with master cylinder, hoses etc? do you have discs on the rear as well, stock drums, stock pedals? do you want parts that can be picked up at the local parts store on the highway somewhere because they are from a stock newer vehicle or a one off manufacturer that needs to special order?

[burlysluggers]

Thanks dsraven!
- stock axle
- complete new kit desired including new rotors, callipers, master cylinder, hoses etc.
- stock ½ ton weight
- 130 HP 350 V8
- currently stock drums all around
- I don't want to waste money but not worried about budget. I want good reliable parts that will function
- I'm in Canada so I'm assuming mail order is most likely my option. Looking for specialized parts with a custom look, not off the shelf at a generic parts store.

Hope this detail helps you, help me.
Jerry

Originally Posted by dsraven

it would be great to know exactly what s you are after. a disc conversion for the stock axle comes in a couple of variations. some use the stock hub with rotors that slide over, some use new hubs and rotors that slip on, some use one piece rotor and hub combo's. how much do you have to spend and how much weight, H/P are you trying to stop. are you looking for something whizzie looking or you just wanna stop the truck. a complete kit with master cylinder, hoses etc? do you have discs on the rear as well, stock drums, stock pedals? do you want parts that can be picked up at the local parts store on the highway somewhere because they are from a stock newer vehicle or a one off manufacturer that needs to special order?

[Foot Stomper]

Try Bill's Truck Shop in Ontario and/or KMS Tools Car Parts department as both specialize in 55 to 59 Task Force.

[burlysluggers]

Thank you kindly Foot Stomper!

[dsraven]

Stock pedal set up with frame mounted power brake booster then?
Dual diaphragm vacuum brake booster or hydro boost set up?
Disc front and rear or new disc set up on front and old drum set up on rear?
5 lug wheels or 6 lug wheels? Changing the wheel bolt pattern means new wheels too. 5 lug front and stock 6 lug rear means trouble if ever a flat tire or else carry 2 spares

just ideas to be aware of when questions get asked

[burlysluggers]

Thanks dsraven.

Stock pedal set up with frame mounted power brake booster then? - YES

Dual diaphragm vacuum brake booster or hydro boost set up? - To be completely honest, that I do not know. I'm not knowledgable enough to know which would be best. Suggestions?

Disc front and rear or new disc set up on front and old drum set up on rear?
5 lug wheels or 6 lug wheels? - My preference would be to do a complete 4 wheel conversion. 6 lug.

Hope this info helps you lead me to a source.

Thanks,
Jerry

Originally Posted by dsraven

Stock pedal set up with frame mounted power brake booster then?
Dual diaphragm vacuum brake booster or hydro boost set up?
Disc front and rear or new disc set up on front and old drum set up on rear?
5 lug wheels or 6 lug wheels? Changing the wheel bolt pattern means new wheels too. 5 lug front and stock 6 lug rear means trouble if ever a flat tire or else carry 2 spares

just ideas to be aware of when questions get asked

[DPete]

I have a kit form here, GM calipers, works good http://www.classicperform.com/Chevy-Truck.htm#2

[dsraven]

sorry for not getting back quicker, been busy.
the hydroboost set up can be a good option for use instead of the vacuum style because it gives very good boost no matter the rpm or engine load. it is run off the power steering pump circuit. with the smaller space on the frame area for a vacuum booster it is a must to have a dual diaphragm unit in order to get the square inches of area to achieve good brake boost. the hydroboost unit is quite small in comparison but may require some fabrication work. see the link below for a few threads and pics etc.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=202888

[dsraven]

here is another

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=539517

[dsraven]

and another

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=601225

[dsraven]

and, of course, the ebay version

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1959-C...-/121580736332

[dsraven]

and POL. this should be enough to get you thinking.

https://www.performanceonline.com/19...e-Booster-Kit/

[MARTINSR]

My first question is why do you want the discs? What are your expectations and how do you plan on driving the truck?

I only ask this because I have seen a LOT of people freak out because someone has told them they MUST have disc brakes to drive on "Modern highways" (I want to gag when I hear that term) and they simply aren't needed on many of these builds.

Brian

[dsraven]

another question, before you shell out some cash, is whether you will be sticking with the stock rear axle. since it is a tad older you may want to go through it and replace what is worn out, bearings, seals, check splines on axles, wear on gears etc. it is probably not geared all that well for today's highway speeds and if spending money you may want to think about if you are swapping the whole rear axle to something newer with better gear ratio for the purpose you plan. if swapping the diff simply get one with disc option is that's what you want. the other option is an overdrive behind the trans or an overdrive trans. here is a site that will give you engine rpm at highway speeds with your tire diameter, rear axle ratio and trans final drive gear ratio

https://www.randysworldwide.com/calculators/rpm/

another one for tire size comparison, with visual comparison as well as tire height charts

https://tiresize.com/comparison/

hope it helps.

on the front disc brake question, the kits with original hubs re-used will probably need the old drums removed and the new rotors installed in their place. the drums/rotors will likely mount to the rear of the hub with rivets/screws. those old hubs will likely be using ball bearings instead of the newer roller bearings. you may need to factor that in for cost and parts ordering if going that route. not sure but I think the kits that come with new hubs will install the rotor on the outboard side of the hub, like a newer vehicle. this makes it easier if doing brake work/maintenance. that said, it's not a bad idea to take the hub off and repack the bearings/replace the hub seals if doing a brake service. personally, I would look at the kits that use standard, OEM, brake components, from whatever vehicle, because the one off special order stuff sometimes gets updated over time with new designs etc. then the old parts become obsolete and unavailable. unless your plan is to build a trailer queen that never sees the pavement you will require a brake job at some point.

[Gribbs]

Bills trucks is an hour from you and he has full 6 bolt conversions for the front at least. Speedway has a front kit with 5 bolt setup that has good reviews and is cheap. I’m in Oshawa and rebuilt a 59 and redid the stoc setup with a new but old style master cylinder. I haven’t done a panic stop yet but otherwise my brakes work really well so far.

[mikebte]

I recently purchased the 6 lug disc conversion from CPP, it was any easy install as well as the undercab double diaphragm booster. They offer a kit with discs, calipers, hubs, lines and bearings. You will have to make your own brake lines, they only offer a firewall mounted brake line kit.

As for ease of installation, I would recommend the kit. Summit marched CPPs eBay price of $699.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/clp-5559cbk6hk

[mikebte]

Figured I would upload a few photos for you. Not a how to photo, but sometimes a picture is worth a 1000 words.

[Dilligas]

In the process of installing the CPP kit on my 59, everything fit well but I will have to use 1.5" spacers to be able to use my stock wheels. Hopefully the spacers won't cause any problems.

[Gribbs]

1.5” inches per side? That seems extreme. You’d need longer studs then too, no?

[_Ogre]

stock wheels weren't made for disc brakes, newer stock looking steel 15" wheels will probably clear without an issue

[dsraven]

3" more total track width seems like a lot. thats gonna mess with the steering geometry a lot. is this so the wheels will clear the calipers, like ogre is asking-maybe use a newer steel wheel that fits over?

[NjSych]

And is there an issue if you use the stock clutch peddle and the new booster under the floor. Some say that they don't work with stock clutch peddle.

Just curious. I was going to do the same brakes.

[Dilligas]

Originally Posted by dsraven

3" more total track width seems like a lot. thats gonna mess with the steering geometry a lot. is this so the wheels will clear the calipers, like ogre is asking-maybe use a newer steel wheel that fits over?

Yes it's so the wheels will clear the calipers. They still fit under the fenders with plenty of room to spare. If it seems to have a negative impact on the steering I'll go with different wheels. Everything else fit without a problem.

[Volfandt]

Originally Posted by mikebte

Figured I would upload a few photos for you. Not a how to photo, but sometimes a picture is worth a 1000 words.

The pic of that aftermarket caliper is just what the doc ordered and definitely worth 1000 words to me.
I am repairing a 49 GMC that someone else modified many moons ago and the brakes have been a particular challenge. The fronts had already been mod'ed to disc's but I was having to replace everything to get them working again. I was having problems getting the calipers to release. Ends up I had to cut a small hole out on the caliper mounting bracket to allow this very small cast-in boss on the caliper to slide fully. In looking at your pic of the aftermarket bracket I see that it either came with the small hole cut or you added it. In any case theres a hole in about the same spot on that new bracket where I had to add one on my old bracket.
I was so glad to see a pic of that hole LOL.

Dave