Any bits of advice before I tear into it?

[67pete300]

This is a first time LS swap for me. Bought a whole donor vehicle (see thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=762972).

It needs to be out of the driveway ASAP.

Any last bits of advice before I start to tear into it?

I obviously plan to take lots of pictures and label things as best I can. I'm leaning towards sending the harness off for modification for this first go round.

I'm also collecting data on whether to pull the engine and trans together or separate. Just like anything else on the internet, the voting seems to be 50/50.

[kipps]

I recently pulled an engine and tranny together of a 2010 tahoe.

I did not use a jack at all. I had a skid-loader and a cutting torch, which helped a bit. I lifted the front of the tahoe, and set the front differential on two large spare tires laying flat on top of each other(obviously, I set the parking brake on the rear axle). This gave me enough room to sit up under the vehicle.

I removed the radiator support and all front bits. Stripped the engine thoroughly, cut the exhaust out of the way, removed the manifolds, removed the driveshafts, starter, disconnected fuel lines, completely unbolted front engine mounts from both the frame and the engine. I left the engine loosely sitting on the mounts, though.

I torched the tranny crossmember, allowing the transmission and transfer case to drop 2 or 3 inches onto blocks. I removed the transfer case(lifted it out by hand), and removed the front sway bar, since it looked like the oil pan would catch on that on its way out.

I attached a 3/8" logging chain to the front of the left head and the rear of the right head, using alternator bracket bolts. I adjusted the chain to lift the engine/trans out at the angle it was already sitting. Then just backed the skid-loader away and lifted it out.

A suggestion for large stable blocks to support stuff, like the tranny-- Lumberyards and Garden supply centers sell used railroad ties. 8" square by 8 to 12 feet long, for probably less than $20. Take a chainsaw with you, and cut one into two foot chunks on site, for easier loading. Don't expect them to last more than 3-4 years outside in the weather, but they work well for a project or two.

[AZ 67 C10]

Stripped a 06 2500hd for my swap. Removed entire front clip, support and pulled the bolts for the front diff to drop down and clear the oil pan. I removed the trans crossmember and put a jack under it after it dropped down a few inches. I pulled the engine and trans together because I don't want to pull the trans laying on the ground.. Labeled the important things, as ill be cutting the harness down myself. Removed everything I need plus anything else worth selling. I had a lot of room so it was worth keeping front diff, steering gearbox, master cylinder, rear axle, and t-case. Seats are going in the 67. It was a rollover so not a single straight body panel, got $300 in scrap and should be able to make the other $1200 with the above parts to get my money back.

Just double check you get everything you need for the swap and label what you don't know.

[Lost81c10]

Sub'ed.

Interested to see how you end up doing yours. I am in the same boat as you. pulling my engine and trans out of my truck in my driveway. I decided this way because of lines and connections and top bolt.

I have done just like Kipps did except not torching anything, but I have removed all the front end stuff to make it easier but I still have the core supporting fenders till the D-Day but everything is loose already. under the truck exhaust and all removed.

I'll be tagging along so I can learn.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...51#post8258251

R u planning on using a lift plate, load leveler or the cherry picker? I am wondering if plant and or leveler might help make it easier.

[Lost81c10]

A suggestion for large stable blocks to support stuff, like the tranny-- Lumberyards and Garden supply centers sell used railroad ties. 8" square by 8 to 12 feet long, for probably less than $20. Take a chainsaw with you, and cut one into two foot chunks on site, for easier loading. Don't expect them to last more than 3-4 years outside in the weather, but they work well for a project or two.[/QUOTE]


Kipps,

what do you mean on the suggestion for stable blocks? just making sure I am not missing a step on my removal. would this be for while the tranny is hanging once you have removed the cross member or for when you are in the process pulling it out or for after the engine/trans is out? thanks for the help.

sorry for the hijack...

[67pete300]

Originally Posted by Lost81c10

Sub'ed.

Interested to see how you end up doing yours. I am in the same boat as you. pulling my engine and trans out of my truck in my driveway. I decided this way because of lines and connections and top bolt.

I have done just like Kipps did except not torching anything, but I have removed all the front end stuff to make it easier but I still have the core supporting fenders till the D-Day but everything is loose already. under the truck exhaust and all removed.

I'll be tagging along so I can learn.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...51#post8258251

R u planning on using a lift plate, load leveler or the cherry picker? I am wondering if plant and or leveler might help make it easier.

I'm following your thread closely. You are a bit ahead of me but this weekend I will start tearing into it for real. Earlier this week I removed the grill, bumper and headlights to clear the road...

I'm thinking of removing everything in front (radiator, condenser, etc) and cutting off the top of the core support (clearly visible in the pic in your thread) to make it easier to pull the engine and trans together with an engine hoist while leaving the rest of the front clip on. I don't have a load leveler but might invest in one for this. I don't have a lift plate either but should be able to find something to bolt to?

Things I'm thinking of keeping (in addition to harness and pedal/TAC):
Various coolers (trans, PS, oil)
Condenser and rest of AC system outside cab
Whatever fuel lines look ok.
PS lines although these look rough
Horn (lol)
Air box and intake
Battery tray (in case I want to relocate)
Accelerator pedal mount
OBD port

Things I'm not sure about:
Headlight harness and BCM (I think this is Body Control Module?)
Driveshaft (looks really big diameter, not sure how it would fit even if shortened)
Cruise control (don't know what this actually is physically, presumably a box and harness)

No longer keeping:
Radiator and fans. They look awesome but are way too big. I can't imagine making them fit. I am replacing a 230 six so I'll have to bite the bullet on a new setup of sorts.
Seats. They are nice but would take a lot of work to not be totally out of place in the otherwise stock interior.

[Lost81c10]

Originally Posted by 67pete300

I'm following your thread closely. You are a bit ahead of me but this weekend I will start tearing into it for real. Earlier this week I removed the grill, bumper and headlights to clear the road...

I'm thinking of removing everything in front (radiator, condenser, etc) and cutting off the top of the core support (clearly visible in the pic in your thread) to make it easier to pull the engine and trans together with an engine hoist while leaving the rest of the front clip on. I don't have a load leveler but might invest in one for this. I don't have a lift plate either but should be able to find something to bolt to?

Things I'm thinking of keeping (in addition to harness and pedal/TAC):
Various coolers (trans, PS, oil)
Condenser and rest of AC system outside cab
Whatever fuel lines look ok.
PS lines although these look rough
Horn (lol)
Air box and intake
Battery tray (in case I want to relocate)
Accelerator pedal mount
OBD port

Things I'm not sure about:
Headlight harness and BCM (I think this is Body Control Module?)
Driveshaft (looks really big diameter, not sure how it would fit even if shortened)
Cruise control (don't know what this actually is physically, presumably a box and harness)

No longer keeping:
Radiator and fans. They look awesome but are way too big. I can't imagine making them fit. I am replacing a 230 six so I'll have to bite the bullet on a new setup of sorts.
Seats. They are nice but would take a lot of work to not be totally out of place in the otherwise stock interior.

With the exception of all the DBW items, since mine is DBC, I pretty much am keeping and planning on integrating almost everything you are planning on keeping. I know you say Lol on the horns but funny enough I had thought of doing the same. the current raspy ones on my 85 make me laugh every time I have to honk.

[truckdude239]

When it comes to the power sttering stuff you will have to use the power steering box made for the 65 if you dont have power steering easliest way i have found to do this with the new ls engine is go to the junk yard and fund a truck with power steering and flared fittings and removed the 1inch nut on the back of thew pump and grap all the internals behind that nut and swap them into the ls pump that way u can use a stock power steering line that is easliy advabile

[kipps]

Originally Posted by Lost81c10

what do you mean on the suggestion for stable blocks? just making sure I am not missing a step on my removal. would this be for while the tranny is hanging once you have removed the cross member or for when you are in the process pulling it out or for after the engine/trans is out? thanks for the help.

I've used these prop blocks for everything. On a clutch job, I set all four wheels of the vehicle up on blocks, and could sit up under the truck in comfort. I initially bought the blocks for jacking a 7 ton tractor out of a ditch after a broken axle. But I digress...

I didn't feel like hunting down a jack to support the tranny while I unbolted the rear tranny cross member. So I just torched the cross member, and let the tranny bump down about two inches onto the blocks. This gave me more room to reach above the tranny and disconnect wiring and fuel lines. It also placed the engine/tranny in a more desirable "nose-up, tail-down" position for easier pulling.

You asked about a lifting plate and load leveler. I'm not sure where you'd fasten a lifting plate to on these engines. They don't have a structural carburetor mount any more. Like I already mentioned, it's easy to hook a 3/8" chain onto alternator bracket bolts in the ends of the cylinder heads.

I did not need a load leveler to get the engine out. I'll likely need something similar to put it in, though. I asked to borrow one at a nearby mechanic's shop, and they said they haven't used one in years, and had recently got rid of the one they had. They said it's easier to use small ratchet straps between the engine hoist and the engine to angle it into place. I guess I'll find out how well it works...

[67pete300]

Originally Posted by kipps

You asked about a lifting plate and load leveler. I'm not sure where you'd fasten a lifting plate to on these engines. They don't have a structural carburetor mount any more. Like I already mentioned, it's easy to hook a 3/8" chain onto alternator bracket bolts in the ends of the cylinder heads.

I did not need a load leveler to get the engine out. I'll likely need something similar to put it in, though. I asked to borrow one at a nearby mechanic's shop, and they said they haven't used one in years, and had recently got rid of the one they had. They said it's easier to use small ratchet straps between the engine hoist and the engine to angle it into place. I guess I'll find out how well it works...

Is there something at the back of the engine to bolt a chain to?

[kipps]

Originally Posted by 67pete300

Is there something at the back of the engine to bolt a chain to?

Yes. The cylinder heads are identical, just flipped for each side. Thus, the alternator bracket bolt holes on the front of the driver's head are duplicated on the back of the passenger head.

[Lost81c10]

Originally Posted by kipps

Yes. The cylinder heads are identical, just flipped for each side. Thus, the alternator bracket bolt holes on the front of the driver's head are duplicated on the back of the passenger head.

Never thought about that, the heads being identical...so much to learn...

Now, I imagine the answer to be yes but are these spots on the heads to bolt the chains to strong enough to lift the engine and trans?

[kipps]

Originally Posted by Lost81c10

Now, I imagine the answer to be yes but are these spots on the heads to bolt the chains to strong enough to lift the engine and trans?

Didn't break for me...

They're a lot stronger than the 4 little bolts that hold the carburetor lifting plate on a Gen 1.

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 67pete300

Things I'm not sure about:
Headlight harness and BCM (I think this is Body Control Module?)
Driveshaft (looks really big diameter, not sure how it would fit even if shortened)
Cruise control (don't know what this actually is physically, presumably a box and harness)

You don't need the BCM on an engine swap. You can use it, but its not necessary and it's a lot of wiring, so if you don't find wiring to be fun, I would skip it. As for the cruise control, with DBW, there isn't anything you need to get from the donor. You will just need a switch which will get wired to the TAC module.

[Jason Banks]

I am in the process of doing the same thing on a 2003 Suburban. I removed the entire radiator support and everything on it...grill, headlights. bumper, etc...still not the hood or fenders though.

I have been spending an hour or two most days trying to take it slow and methodical...but I have mine inside, can't wait to get rid of it though. I have been trying to sell parts off it on craigslist but haven't had much luck.

I felt a major relief yesterday when I finally got the whole engine harness out. Trying to figure out where all the connections were and labeling them was a chore. I still have one connector I didn't label and have not figured out what it is yet. But, the whole engine harness is laying on the floor intact. I also pulled the whole front light harness.

I am finally down to needing to disconnect the driveshaft, engine mounts and transmission mount and should be able to pull the engine and transmission together. I do have a cheap engine leveler (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Torin-Jac...veler/14560057). I asked my dad this morning if he was ready to pull it today and he didn't sound thrilled....I just need him to drive the forklift while I do stuff, and yell at him.

I thought I would end up with many more bags of fasteners that were labeled for different things. But, most fasteners I just put back in the threaded holes or left them in the part/assembly they go with.

[67pete300]

Thanks guys! This is great feedback.

Thinking of hitting the whole (filthy) engine with some Simple Green and water this afternoon and then starting it up (one last time) before I tear into it tomorrow and past the point of no return.

Risky? Or smart?

[ls1nova71]

Originally Posted by 67pete300

Thanks guys! This is great feedback.

Thinking of hitting the whole (filthy) engine with some Simple Green and water this afternoon and then starting it up (one last time) before I tear into it tomorrow and past the point of no return.

Risky? Or smart?

Cover the throttle body real good so no water gets in it and wash away. I've done it many times. The knock sensor holes will probably fill up with water, but since you're pulling it out, you should be alright.

[Jason Banks]

I wish I had washed mine down good before I started....the valve covers have been leaking something aweful....there is oil in the intake ports on the heads...

[67pete300]

Cleaned up, cleared out, and ready for tear down starting tomorrow

[67pete300]

Been there, done that, got the superfund site in my driveway.

[Lost81c10]

Originally Posted by 67pete300

Been there, done that, got the superfund site in my driveway.

Congrats. Wow that was quick. I have been working on it for 2 weeks...lol.

So the harness go all the way to the tranny correct but I dont need to disconect it from it before pulling it right?
any part of the harness go all the way to the fuel tank and do I need to trace it and unplug it from where it connects to the tank?

[67pete300]

Originally Posted by Lost81c10

Congrats. Wow that was quick. I have been working on it for 2 weeks...lol.

So the harness go all the way to the tranny correct but I dont need to disconect it from it before pulling it right?
any part of the harness go all the way to the fuel tank and do I need to trace it and unplug it from where it connects to the tank?

I was planning to pull it with the intake manifold and harness still on but it just go too tight. So I had to get the entire harness unplugged (left the coil packs and fuel rails intact but just unbolted the coil pack supports) and then pull the manifold and harness all together.

Unplugging the harness from the trans was pretty easy. Harder was the branch that went under the front of the engine along the crossmember and then back to the starter. Had to remove a big cover plate along the whole side of the bottom of the truck and then a small cover plate bolted to the transmission. Then removed the starter and only then with it hanging by the wires could I get to the harness connections on the starter.

Even with the harness unplugged from the trans, I had to drop the trans down a bit to make enough room for all the harness plugs to fit through the space at the back of the engine and come out the front.

[67pete300]

Originally Posted by Lost81c10

Congrats. Wow that was quick. I have been working on it for 2 weeks...lol.

It would have taken me that long if not for my enthusiastic neighbor with a sawzall and impact gun! I was the fiddly harness guy and he was the blunt force trauma guy.

[67pete300]

I keep going deeper into it. Interior is totally gutted after chasing various bits.

Saved:
Battery tray and airbox tray.
Full shifter cable.
Pedal and TAC.
Fuel lines all the way back to tank.
Remote hood release.

Currently trying to figure out how to remove the lighter and 12V plug from the dash.

I have the gage cluster unplugged. I haven't done a search yet, but if anybody wants to offer up if this can be made to work in a C10? Should I take more harness or cut the plug off?

[Lost81c10]

Originally Posted by 67pete300

I keep going deeper into it. Interior is totally gutted after chasing various bits.

Saved:
Battery tray and airbox tray.
Full shifter cable.
Pedal and TAC.
Fuel lines all the way back to tank.
Remote hood release.

Currently trying to figure out how to remove the lighter and 12V plug from the dash.

I have the gage cluster unplugged. I haven't done a search yet, but if anybody wants to offer up if this can be made to work in a C10? Should I take more harness or cut the plug off?

On the lighter, I took all three that the suburban have in a series by the ashtray but I ended up breaking the little tabs because I couldn't figure out how the would come out. I will still try to figure on how I can adapt at least one because the one in the truck does not work when I plug a phone charger or radar, but the cigarette lighter works.

As for the cluster, I thought about the same thing but decided not to based on what I read.