Lockup for 200r4

[tdangle]

OK, I searched and read so many messages and articles on a 350 to 200r4 swap that I am overwhelmed.

I'm picking up a 200R4 to replace my tired and leaking 350. I understand the TV setup and have no problems with that. The area that I'm not quite understanding is the lockup functionality. I've looked at the kits which seem to be a little on the expensive side for what you get. My main confusion is why do they replace the TC Lockup solenoid? and what function does the 4 gear pressure switch perform?

From some of the wiring diagrams I have found it looks like if +12 is applied to the A pin then the TC will auto lock in 4th only. If you apply + 12 to the D pin the TC will manually lockup (I assume 2-4) Some of the messages/articles I've read is this is all you really need to do. (of course a low vac and brake switch needs to be incorporated)

[rjs53]

Have you looked up California performance transmission. Art Carr is the guy You want to talk to, he is the king of the 200 4r

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by tdangle

OK, I searched and read so many messages and articles on a 350 to 200r4 swap that I am overwhelmed.

I'm picking up a 200R4 to replace my tired and leaking 350. I understand the TV setup and have no problems with that. The area that I'm not quite understanding is the lockup functionality. I've looked at the kits which seem to be a little on the expensive side for what you get. My main confusion is why do they replace the TC Lockup solenoid? and what function does the 4 gear pressure switch perform?

From some of the wiring diagrams I have found it looks like if +12 is applied to the A pin then the TC will auto lock in 4th only. If you apply + 12 to the D pin the TC will manually lockup (I assume 2-4) Some of the messages/articles I've read is this is all you really need to do. (of course a low vac and brake switch needs to be incorporated)

I bought the BowTie Overdrives kit when I put the 2004r in my '69 Suburban. I just wanted the piece of mind that everything was going to work as it should and it did. Setting the pressures is critical, as well as the TV cable if you want the trans to survive for long..... The nice thing about the BTO is that the instructions & tech support are really good.

LockDoc

[SJLenz1340]

Am doing this right now. My trans guy rebuilt a core for me and after discussion specific to my application he went to work and wired the trans internally for a simple manually operated lock up in 4th only. Power is applied to A terminal and C is a ground. I am using a relay for pilot duty operation with the normal safety devices such as a new brake light switch utilizing the normally closed cruise control contacts.
If you are using an external pressure switch it simply drops out lock up when line pressure is insufficient, another safety device that can be wired I the same part of the circuit as the other safety devices.
Does this help? Are you having a core rebuilt or gambling with an existing trans?

[tdangle]

Gambling, This is an existing trans. Picked it up last night. Guy claims it worked fine when removed and he was going to use it in his project car (which I believe will never see the road again). It's out of a 84 full size GM station wagon and have been rebuilt once in its life. I figured for the $200 I paid it's worth it. Came complete with the TV cable and dipstick. Opened the pan up and it already has a TC solenoid and a 4th gear only pressure switch all wired in to the external connector. From what I see, I may only need the external wiring and low vac switch.

I guess my question is: do the kits replace the existing solenoid and low pressure switch with a new or different ones or what?

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by rjs53

Have you looked up California performance transmission. Art Carr is the guy You want to talk to, he is the king of the 200 4r

yep, I talked to Steve last week and they have it ALL covered for the 200 4R

http://www.cpttransmission.com/2004R_trans_400hp.htm

good luck!

[Mudflat]

The transmission guy whom built mine tells me not to worry about lockup that you will only gain 150 less rpm in 4th.

[tdangle]

Originally Posted by Mudflat

The transmission guy whom built mine tells me not to worry about lockup that you will only gain 150 less rpm in 4th.

True, and I'm not that concerned with the mileage increase or a few rpm just I've heard that if you don't lock up the converter it can accelerate wear on the trans due to higher temps. Not sure if this really is different than a non-lockup converter. Anyone know for sure?

[Bigdav160]

The problem is OD. It's similar to towing a large trailer all the time.
Because you are getting more RPM out than you are putting in; it creates a large speed differential in the converter and that energy is converted to heat. So much it can scorch the fluid and ruin it's ability to lubricate. That's why all OD transmission have lockup clutches.

As far as new TCC solenoids in the kits, it looks to me that are simplifying the wiring. Nothing special about the solenoid

[SJLenz1340]

So last week I went to visit my trans rebuilder just to make sure I was on track. My main focus lock up wiring philosophies and TV geometry. At that point he talked me into installing a fluid cooler for the trans (which I was not originally intending to do). He stated that the heat generated by transmissions of that era was primarily responsible for failures which he said normally start to appear around 50K miles if not maintained. When in lock up heat generation is greatly reduced.
As far as some of the lock up kits commercially available, it is my opinion that when you calculate the cost of parts included, they are a total rip. Why pay over $100 for 8-12 bucks worth of parts? Allow common sense to prevail. BTO and Monster provide some nice part(s)/kit solutions, and if said parts can be applied to your truck that is just great (albeit a bit pricey). In my case specific to TV geometry there were no commercially available solutions to my original 4G. My rebuilder took care of the rest. Good luck!