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Old 11-12-2003, 01:42 AM   #1
dinnut
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want discs, confused

i have 4 wheel drums. want front discs. if i buy drop spindles, new 6 lug rotors, and new calipers... can i keep the 70 ball joints? anybody done waht im thinking of...? whats the best/cheapest way to do?

in case you havent noticed. i like lowered trucks. this truck is not mine but is sweet
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Old 11-12-2003, 01:57 AM   #2
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if you buy the drop spindle kit for your year truck you should be fine.
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Old 11-12-2003, 02:04 AM   #3
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I have that truck on my desktop at work!! Sweet!!!
Thats the grill setup Im gonna buy, when I have the
cash!
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Old 11-12-2003, 02:21 AM   #4
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You might consider switching to 5-lug discs since there is a much bigger selection of 5-lug wheels. So one day when you want to put some "bling bling" rims on your truck, you'll have have a lot to choose from Just my $0.02.
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Old 11-12-2003, 03:18 AM   #5
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sup dinnut...you might want to read the fine print on some of the disc kits because I think cpp uses 73 and up ball joints. the ones that mcgaughy has (which many of the vendors here carry) you can use the 67-71 ball joints. just my .02

ditto what slammed said.
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Old 11-12-2003, 03:22 AM   #6
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Early classic make spindles for 70 so it's a direct bolt on.
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Old 11-12-2003, 05:40 AM   #7
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Dinnut we stock the complete bolt in spindles that use all your original steering and suspension hardware that allow you to install disc brakes. You can check them out on our site here
http://www.gmcpauls.com/Brakes&Steering.htm
If you have any questions on doing it give us a call or drop us a email we will be happy to help!!! We broke the kits down to so you can purchase it in stages or all at once depending on budget.
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Old 11-12-2003, 12:36 PM   #8
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I bought this kit from Paul and was/am very happy with it. I went ahead and bought the springs and all. It is not hard to do!
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Old 11-12-2003, 12:39 PM   #9
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If you go ahead and go with a 6 lug kit, If you decide later that you want 5 lug you're only out the cost of rotors. Oh and wheel bearings. I went with the 6 lug kit fro mcgaughy's. It is a direct bolt in.
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Old 11-12-2003, 12:54 PM   #10
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i used the kit from GMC PAUL'S

worked good, haven't dropped it yet $$$$

but sometime in the future
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Old 11-12-2003, 05:12 PM   #11
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CPP

I used CPP spindles which do come with new upper ball joints and new tie rod ends, that are 73 up versions, a bit bigger and beefier. It was the best bang for my buck, as I not only got the spindles but other new front end parts.
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Old 11-12-2003, 06:57 PM   #12
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Dinnut, I bought the Early Classic because it came with everything including master and prop valve, which nobody else included. There were cheaper kits out there, but man those guys know what they are doing and they helped my cousin and I out when we had questions on a Saturday morning.
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:02 PM   #13
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sweet... thanks gmc for the link... i want 6 lug because i like 6 lug rims. they have some sweet ones out there and i want to be different.

gmc paul... i may have to email you about this. but what is the big difference in the 470 and 240 dollar kits... as far as i understand i wont have to change much with the 470 dollar kit... which is good. and it comes with dropped spindles too... i may have to get that. what would i have to do for a master cylinder/prop valve? would i be able to use a 71-72? or woudl the stock setup work, even though im pretty sure it doesnt. any help would be helpful
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Old 11-12-2003, 10:03 PM   #14
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hehehe. see where im coming from? billet specialties baby.... lots of cool looking 6 lug rims out there
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Old 11-13-2003, 01:15 AM   #15
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ttt
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Old 11-13-2003, 04:29 AM   #16
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dinnut, the $240 kit is used by people buying the kit in stages as the money becomes available then they purchase the spindles and adjustable prop valve or spindles & booster master cyl. combo with a brake prop valve at a later date when more money becomes available. With the $470kit you can buy just the adjustable prop valve and stick it below your current master cylinder distribution block and then you will not need to swap master cylinder out to disc/drum style, you can however use the 71-72 master cylinder / prop valve if you prefer, or we also offer the 7" & 9" booster master cylinder combos and a disc brake prop valve. The advantage to using the 7" booster combo is this booster only requires 16lbs of vaccuum to operate and a 9" only requires 14lbs so those with higher lift cams that produce far less vaccuum available from motor still can have power brakes, unlike the 71-72 stock booster which is designed for 18-20lbs of vaccuum depending upon style of stock unit. The adjustable prop valve is nice as it allows you to change the brake line pressure bias from front to back by the turn of a knob allowing you to dial in the front to rear brake bias exactly to your truck and weight conditions, the standard disc/drum prop valve we sell performs just like a stock one with no adjustability to it.
Really far easier to explain all this by phone or in person as the postive & negative factors can be gone into in more detail on each style of set-up.
Basicly though the $470 gets you everything needed to put disc brakes on your truck without having to change any ball joints, tie rod ends etc.... such as with a CPP kit or some of the others, and to optimize front to rear braking bias you need only decide if you prefer to go the adjustable prop valve route, or the disc/drum master cylinder route with a disc/drum prop valve. Gives us a ring or email we'll be happy to help.
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Old 11-13-2003, 07:43 PM   #17
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wow. thnaks for the explanation. thats a lot of thinking for me to do. 500 bucks is a lot, but not alot compared to some of the other kits. i need the emergency brake/parking brake to work before i can get an inspection because it doesnt work. i think this means the brakes are going bad. i dont want to sound stupid but: are the parking brakes built into the front and rear brakes or just front or just rear?
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Old 11-14-2003, 12:55 AM   #18
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just rear
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Old 11-14-2003, 01:05 AM   #19
dinnut
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oh. ok. parking brake in rear... id like discs in back too but 600 is a bit out of budget (im way poor, remember?)
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Old 11-14-2003, 03:47 AM   #20
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I went with the early classics set-up, i got the 2.5 drop spindles, nice kit used orignal ball joint (of course I changed them) it also came with brake booster and proportioning valve, nice setup and I was able to retain my ralley wheels without any problem
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Old 11-14-2003, 04:47 AM   #21
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Some grerat ideas and great trucks
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Old 11-14-2003, 05:04 AM   #22
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rear brake cables

Quote:
Originally posted by dinnut
wow. thnaks for the explanation. thats a lot of thinking for me to do. 500 bucks is a lot, but not alot compared to some of the other kits. i need the emergency brake/parking brake to work before i can get an inspection because it doesnt work. i think this means the brakes are going bad. i dont want to sound stupid but: are the parking brakes built into the front and rear brakes or just front or just rear?
Dinnut, does it seem that the cable is froze up? I got new rear cables from local parts store (Autozone) $17.00 each. I my opinion they are made better than the originals. The new ones are coated with heavy duty plastic on the outside and teflon lined on the inside. 99% of the time that is the cause of the e-brake not working.
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Old 11-14-2003, 08:58 PM   #23
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what about the parking brake? is it the same as the emergency brake? i sound stupid i know. but i would like to fix this problem. i have a floor shifter and a crappy one at that. th350. what activates the parking brake? or is it the same thing as emergency brake?
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Old 11-14-2003, 11:39 PM   #24
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parking and e brake is the same. usually engaged by a foot pedal or in 67-68s a hand brake.
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Old 11-18-2003, 12:01 AM   #25
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oh. my parking brake doesnt work like at all. i cant park on any angle or ill roll. it wont hold it at idle or anything. i really want discs. any chance of gettgn a board members discount gmc paul?
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