C10 almost roadworthy during the day and night.

[S_Gibson]

Few questions about these rides and a moment to comment about how stoked I am to have this truck.

I have enjoy messing with this thing so far. It may be about 50 years old and loaded with dirt and rust, but it is a treat to work on compared to my much, much newer vehicle and the other trucks I've owned.

I've been working on the 70 C10 trying to get everything working. All I lack to make me comfortable with this thing as a daily driver is fixing the parking brake and getting the reverse and license plate lights working.

I just changed out every bulb on the truck and have the dash, blinkers, parking lights, turn signals, brake and dome lights working. I noticed there is no light or switch in the glove box which seems odd, but I don't need that to drive it.

The parking brakes work, but I see that only the left side is hooked up which seems odd. Guess I'll buy new cables and replace all of them to make sure it works. It a 3 speed so I'm not comfortable with it as is. It may just be me, but it feels like one of the brakes may be dragging a bit. I'll remove the wheels and check all the shoes, cylinders, etc as well as replace a wheel stud that is broken off.

The truck is red with no emblems, molding, etc., but looking at the tag it appears it was dark bronze & medium brown with moldings when new. The interior is red and black, but it was gold custom cloth according to the sticker. Either the truck or glove box door is off.

Anyone have an pictures of a factory bronze and brown C10? Not that I have any desire to use brown, but I could not find on in a search. I'm tempted to paint the truck and grill flat black and just have chrome bumpers. I'm not wanting it too nice so I don't mind using as a truck.

Where can one acquire a columns backup switch for a 3 speed? I haven't finished diagnosing it, but I'm guessing that is the issue.

The LCD's I used on the interior where much brighter than I expected, but evidently will not dim in the dash. Not a big deal, but I do need to clean or replace the headlight switch as dimmer appears to be flaky. Why are there so many bulbs in the dash? Seem there is one for high beams, 2 for turn signals, 4 for lighting the instruments, but I had about 2 more I replaced that do not appear to light. Perhaps they are dummy lights for oil, water or battery? I have gauges so would it still have lights for those items?

Only other items I want to do are put in a working radio, smaller steering wheel, fix the broken heater controls and perhaps add a brake booster. Beyond that the old ugly truck seems perfect and I really enjoy driving it more than any other truck I've ever owned.

[bill3rail]

How about some pictures?

I will answer one question now...

Originally Posted by S_Gibson

Where can one acquire a columns backup switch for a 3 speed?

LMC had it listed without a picture in the catalog so they Emailed me a picture and it was the one.
Page 187...

Originally Posted by S_Gibson

The LCD's I used on the interior where much brighter than I expected, but evidently will not dim in the dash.

Did you mean LED's?

[WhiteCST]

Very glad to see another recent owner of these bad ass trucks! I got mine about 3 weeks ago and have already went to town on the thing. I’m even selling my daily and driving my back up to fund the build of this truck into my new daily.
Best of luck with your truck! Post pics of the truck and spid if you can, I love seeing that stuff. Here’s mine before with the after later to come.

[panhead59]

Glove box light is available almost anywhere. Got mine from lmc. About $14.95.

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by bill3rail

How about some pictures?

Did you mean LED's?

Thanks I'll check out LMC.

Yes, LED's.

I used these for the side markers and dash. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CWVWZ41

I used these for the dome light. It is BRIGHT! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078MLRNCX

A couple of the LED's I replaced in the dash appear to have no use unless they are dummy lights. On newer cars the dummy light will light up when you first turn the ignition on. Perhaps that is not the case on these cars.

Here are a few photo's of this sweet ride.

[S_Gibson]

So much great info on this site....

Added pictures of the ID tag.

I guess the tag is right. You can see some gold looking paint under the black on the clove bow door. I still have not located a picture with dark bronze and medium brown colors on a C10.

As far as the fuses. Which one is for backup lights? Doesn't appear any fuses are blown although it is pretty nasty under that dash.

Would an AC be listed on the tag? There is a fuse labeled AC, but.... No AC.

[S_Gibson]

Beautiful weekend so I spent 2 days fooling with the truck. Quite easy to work on.

Backup lights are now working and I haven't done anything to them. Lol, They are always one now instead of always off. That is still on my to do list.

I polished up the rims. Nearly 95% of the rust is gone and they look great. I think it has the wrong lug nuts on it. It has beveled lug nuts and I would think it need the mag type lug nuts with the short shank and washer. Looks like the beveled ones are wearing the holes.

One of the dust covers was missing and two wheel studs were broken so I picked up a few parts at the parts store. While I was there I went through all the molded hoses they had and found one that will go from the valve cover to the air cleaner. Put a new window crank on as well.

I found the original color under a bunch of grease and grime. I still need to get some degreaser to clean under the hood, but it looks much better already.

Hoping for another cooler weekend next weekend. I want to go through all the wiring between the cab and engine compartment and see what is needed and what isn't. There are so many wires hanging around that either need to be eliminated or hooked up properly. I noticed some wire under the hood that need to be replaced because the insulation is dry and brittle.

[dmjlambert]

Originally Posted by S_Gibson

... Why are there so many bulbs in the dash? Seem there is one for high beams, 2 for turn signals, 4 for lighting the instruments, but I had about 2 more I replaced that do not appear to light. Perhaps they are dummy lights for oil, water or battery? I have gauges so would it still have lights for those items?

You have a gauge instrument cluster. It has 2 warning lights, one for brake and one for temp. The brake light should light while you are starting the truck, to test the light bulb. The temp light is not connected at all because the cluster wiring connector does not have a pin or wire at position 5 on the connector, and the truck doesn't have the temperature sender that is compatible with the warning light, but the bulb holder for temp is there in the cluster. Apparently the designer figured if you have a temperature gauge that is good enough and you don't need to use that warning light. If you are using LED bulbs, most of those are polarity sensitive, so you may have to plug it in the other way if you have one that doesn't work.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by S_Gibson

...I think it has the wrong lug nuts on it. It has beveled lug nuts and I would think it need the mag type lug nuts with the short shank and washer. Looks like the beveled ones are wearing the holes...

I had these chromed steel wheels installed from Les Schwab around 20 years ago and they appear to be of a similar type as yours.

They added tapered lug & locking nuts with the install, and I'm thinking yours do require the same.

[rockyrivermark]

The contactor for the reverse lights is in the nutruel safety switch.
Prob weak connection there or out of adjustment.
It's located at the base of the steering column inside vehicle.
If it act up again check for power in and out of the switch.
Also check for power in reverse at the bulb. Often bad ground there

[stsalvage]

To help you guys out a little 1973 was the last year corvette Used the ram horn's on the 350 motor It was the first year of the HEI When ordering your spark plug wires tell them you have a 1973 corvette.If your using factory Ram Horns it will give you a longer plug wire to run them up behind the motor and put 1-3 2-4 throw the front motor mounts keeping them out of the way like the factory did it from 1960--1972.Us UD40 to losen the boots up lightly pull on them and the boots will slide off.Then you push from under your motor push them throw the small Gap if your using the factory motor mounts and brackets.I will show you pics It cleans up the top of your motor

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

The brake light should light while you are starting the truck, to test the light bulb.

Thanks for the input. I figured out 4 are for lighting the panel and 1 is for Hi beams. I did have to flip a few bulbs to get the polarity correct. I flipped the ones that I couldn't figure out what they are, but I will attempt to flip them again and see if I can get them to light when I start the truck.

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by BRL

I had these chromed steel wheels installed from Les Schwab around 20 years ago and they appear to be of a similar type as yours.

They added tapered lug & locking nuts with the install, and I'm thinking yours do require the same.

Nice truck, and I like those rims.

No clue what brand my rims are. This is a picture of the lug nut and the hole in the rim. The hole is even oversized for the 7/16 stud. I'm wondering if it shouldn't have a mag style lug nut with a short shank and washer.

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by rockyrivermark

The contactor for the reverse lights is in the nutruel safety switch.
Prob weak connection there or out of adjustment.
It's located at the base of the steering column inside vehicle.
If it act up again check for power in and out of the switch.
Also check for power in reverse at the bulb. Often bad ground there

I'm guessing it is the switch as it is either always on or always off. I'll have to check the steering column and find it.

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by stsalvage

To help you guys out a little 1973 was the last year corvette Used the ram horn's on the 350 motor It was the first year of the HEI When ordering your spark plug wires tell them you have a 1973 corvette.If your using factory Ram Horns it will give you a longer plug wire to run them up behind the motor and put 1-3 2-4 throw the front motor mounts keeping them out of the way like the factory did it from 1960--1972.Us UD40 to losen the boots up lightly pull on them and the boots will slide off.Then you push from under your motor push them throw the small Gap if your using the factory motor mounts and brackets.I will show you pics It cleans up the top of your motor

Thanks for the info. I shall keep this in mind. As you can see in the picture the wires are a mess and someone zip tied them to the brake line and heater hose. They were laying on the exhaust manifolds.

[BRL]

Originally Posted by S_Gibson

Nice truck, and I like those rims.

No clue what brand my rims are. This is a picture of the lug nut and the hole in the rim. The hole is even oversized for the 7/16 stud. I'm wondering if it shouldn't have a mag style lug nut with a short shank and washer.

Just took one of my lug nuts off and put it on top of the center cap for you to view.

As you can see, the holes are indeed larger than the studs, but when tightened down, the beveled nuts center the wheel and themselves in the holes.

Sorry for the blurry picture, but I shake like crazy after coffee, and the brown stuff on the stud and beveled hole is not rust but anti-seize compound.

At any rate, I do believe you have the correct lug nuts for that type wheel.

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by BRL

Just took one of my lug nuts off and put it on top of the center cap for you to view.

As you can see, the holes are indeed larger than the studs, but when tightened down, the beveled nuts center the wheel and themselves in the holes.

Sorry for the blurry picture, but I shake like crazy after coffee, and the brown stuff on the stud and beveled hole is not rust but anti-seize compound.

At any rate, I do believe you have the correct lug nuts for that type wheel.

Awesome, I was a bit concerned I may not have the correct ones.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by S_Gibson

Thanks for the info. I shall keep this in mind. As you can see in the picture the wires are a mess and someone zip tied them to the brake line and heater hose. They were laying on the exhaust manifolds.

If you buy a kit like Moroso etc you can get them in long lengths
One end comes with boot on and you cut and crimp the other end for a custom fit. Best way to go in my opinion.
Crimp tool like $9.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AUXLMJK..._kOvrBb70CDNKV

[S_Gibson]

Dug through some of the wires and found out someone previously hooked the reverse lights up to a single pole single throw toggle under the dash. Assume the column switch must be bad, but did not have time to check it.

[68Gold/white]

You definitely have the correct lug nuts for those wheels.

You can clean the rust off the wheels and nuts with liquid toilet bowl cleaner. Make sure to rinse tham well after cleaning, and then apply some sort of wax afterward to protect, They will rust up fast if you don't...

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by 68Gold/white

You definitely have the correct lug nuts for those wheels.

You can clean the rust off the wheels and nuts with liquid toilet bowl cleaner. Make sure to rinse tham well after cleaning, and then apply some sort of wax afterward to protect, They will rust up fast if you don't...

Thanks. I need two more nuts and I'm having a heck of a time finding 3/4" to match the ones I have locally. I may have to bite the bullet and buy 20 13/16" nuts and swap them all out. The 13/16 nuts are sold everywhere. The 4 wheel locks can use 3/4" or 13/16" socket so not need to replace them.

I used Turtle Wax Chrome Polish & Rust Remover with a small brass bristle brush and they turned out great. I first used this stuff on a set of severely rusted up Craggar rims I acquired form my uncles junkyard in 1984 and haven't gone without it since. Only a couple buck at the parts store and a bottle goes a long way.

I got lazy on the lug nuts and just shined up the heads of the nuts.

https://www.turtlewax.com/our-produc...h-rust-remover

BTW what torque does everyone use for their lug nuts? I've always used 100lbs of about everything, but read somewhere that 85lbs should be used for 7/16 studs.

[fourspeedwagon]

Seems like I saw a bronze / brown two tone in the big SPID thread?
Anyway, looks like the firewall is medium bronze. Also, AC would be listed unless it were a dealer add on type. But the fuse box has a spot for it no matter- in case the dealer needed to add it or whatever. They’re pretty universal instead of different fuse boxes for every variation.
Nice truck, glad you’re having fun with it.

[S_Gibson]

Originally Posted by fourspeedwagon

Also, AC would be listed unless it were a dealer add on type. But the fuse box has a spot for it no matter- in case the dealer needed to add it or whatever.

Does the AC fuse work anything else if there is no AC? There is a fuse in that spot.

I've been on vacation and busy catching up at work the last couples weeks, but I finally a chance to work on the truck a bit today. I noticed the brakes sticking and could feel the drag on the truck when I was not accelerating. I guess the intermediate braking brake cable broke on the passenger side so someone tied that side off to the guide mounted to the chassis. When I was using the parking brake it was only operating the drivers side. I ordered the cable, clamps and a Brake Release knob and put them on today. It started raining before I could adjust them.

Tomorrow if it doesn't rain I'll need to take both rear drums off and see how it looks. If nothing need replacing I'll disassemble and make sure everything is moving freely and working as it should. I can't have the brakes dragging. I took the front drums off several weeks ago while cleaning the wheels and everything there looked good. Anyone know of anything in particular to look for?

The noticed spring that pulls the brake release lever back on the pedal assembly is missing. Is it possible to purchase just this spring? If so does anyone happen to have a link? If they are not readily available I guess I could find something else to work there.

I'm slowly getting the truck to where I'm comfortable driving it around town more. Messing with it I'm starting to see more and more little things that need to be done before considering it completely mechanically sound, but fortunately I haven't run into anything major. I think once I get to the point of worrying about rust I'll have my hands full. I'm seeing more and more body parts with rust issues. I think rust is going to be a much bigger problem than I originally thought, but it isn't something I have to take care of right away. It took nearly 50 years to get to this point, so I don't think a couple more will hurt it.

Surprising I have less that $1650 in total in this truck and it is only about $300 or $400 away from me considering using it as my daily driver. If the rear brakes look OK I think all I'll need is new tires, valve cover gaskets, a tuneup & backup switch to be tip top mechanically and road worthy. I still have to look into the heater controls before winter get here, but I don't think it should be much trouble. I know the fan switch isn't working, and haven't look at the vent doors to see if they are working properly.

[S_Gibson]

Rained yesterday after I finished yardwork. Guess I'll dig into the rear brakes next weekend if I can't find time in the evenings.

Attached is a picture of how someone rigged the cable when it broke. Not sure why anyone could be this lazy. The AC Delco 18P10 cable was only $10.30 shipped from Amazon, and the connectors were less and $6 a pair. The cable had a rubber coating that I thought was pretty cool.

Back to one of the questions above. Is it possible to buy just the parking brake lever return spring? I can find the assembly all over the web, but just need the missing spring.

[FL71C10]

I had the same problem with my parking brake lever. I posted something on here and somebody replied with a picture of one with a new spring. I just went to the hardware store and found a spring that worked. I did buy a couple of springs beforr i got tge right one. My parking brake pedal assembly was already out of the truck so it was easier for me,