Did I make some OK choices?

[DLW]

I was going for a decent sounding system, nothing to special. Was not looking for the big boom sound, just nice crisp clean sounding that can hit a little bit. I am no audiophile guy by no means, so I just made choices based on research I did first. The head unit I had NIB already, so I will just use that. I bought the rest of the stuff in the list this week already. I was planning to mount the front drivers in the kick panels, and the tweeters in the dash or door panels, sub behind seat, amp under seat. Hopefully I made some ok choices in the parts here, just shooting at the hip a bit like I usually do.

One thing I am not very clear about is the crossover deal. The speakers come with passive crossovers and that part is clear. I was hoping not to use those and do active crossover through the amp instead. I am not clear, but can this amp do the active crossover part? And how do I wire from the amp to the tweets and mids? I swear I searched first ..

JL Audio C5-525
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...io-C5-525.html

JL Audio MicroSub CP108LG-W3v3
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...08LG-W3v3.html

NVX JAD900.5
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...iring-Kit.html

Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X898
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...-KDC-X898.html

[BIGglaSS]

I think you did well.

You can run them off the supplied passive crossovers, or go active with that amp. I'd go active. Run the mids on the FRONT channel BPF, and the tweets on the rear, HPF. Set the switch to 4CH.

[DLW]

Originally Posted by BIGglaSS

I think you did well.

You can run them off the supplied passive crossovers, or go active with that amp. I'd go active. Run the mids on the FRONT channel BPF, and the tweets on the rear, HPF. Set the switch to 4CH.

Thanks for jumping in BIGglaSS.
Along with the settings you mentioned, In terms of the wiring, just so I have it straight in my head, run the front channel 1&2 wires from amp to the mids, and the rear channel 3&4 wires to the tweets?

Thanks!!

[DLW]

I'll give Sonic a ring-a-ding when I get to the wiring in a few days. Think I know how it needs to go based on BIGglaSS response. Doesn't seem to be any type of wiring diagram handy for internal amp crossovers to front components.

[BIGglaSS]

Sorry, I have been on vacation. There isn't 1&2, or 3&4. You have Front/rear, left and right.

ACTIVE:
Follow the 5 channel diagram in the amp manual. Basically rear speakers are tweets, and front speakers are mids. Run 3 sets of RCA's from the head unit to the amp (front/rear/sub), and set the switch to 4ch. In this mode, fading from front to rear at the head unit will vary the output between the mids and tweets.

Tweets get wired to the rear left/ rear right. HPF (High pass filter) set to about 2500Hz.

Mids get wired to the Front left/ Front right. BPF (Band Pass Filter). Set the low range knob to about 100Hz, the the HPF knob to about 2500Hz.

If you're worried about doing it wrong, use the JL crossovers wired to the amp in bridged mode. Wiring diagram is in the owners manual.

When you run active, you become the tuner. With the passive crossovers, JL has spec'd them to an optimum frequency that works for most users.

The more I think about it, your safe bet is to use the passive crossovers. Active is more for using a DSP (digital signal processor). This is where you can tune specifically to your needs, time alignment, etc.

But, either way will work.

[DLW]

Awesome info BIGglaSS.
And thank you.

Only reason I was wanting to do the active, was to alleviate more devices to to mess with and wire, but now that you have spelled it out for me, it will take out some guess work in the tuning. I also have no plans to add a DSP. I think I really like the idea of doing the bridged mode with the passives, not sure why that didn't hit me as an option before.

[DLW]

More noob questions.

Since it looks like I will go the bridged route with passive crossovers, do I still use the HPF and LPF on the amp for anything, just SUB?

In the below pic, I think the top row is for the Sub, bottom row for front/rear.

For front, is this right:

• Set channel mode = Bridged
• Level = all the way down until ready to tune?
• HPF?
• LPF?
• Set for "Full" or "HPF"?

Sub woofer, top row:

• Source = Ext.
• Level = low to start?
• Subsoninc = ? Woofer has a range from 20 - 250 Hz, so put it lowest? Sub has a slot-ported enclosure if that matters.
• Set to LPF?
• LPF = 80 Hz?

Rear is not used in bridged mode right? I also don't need to run rear pre-amp cables from HU to amp?

I changed the front components to the RF T2652-S. RMS/Peak 100/200
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item...r-T2652-S.html

When amp is bridged at 4 Ohms, RMS power is 230 W x 2 + 440 W X 1

[BIGglaSS]

Originally Posted by DLW

More noob questions.

Since it looks like I will go the bridged route with passive crossovers, do I still use the HPF and LPF on the amp for anything, just SUB?
SUB only.

Set channel mode = Bridged
Level = all the way down until ready to tune?
HPF?
LPF?
Set for "Full" or "HPF"?
Bridged, FULL. Turn the levels all the way down. In bridged mode you are sending a lot of power to the speakers.

Sub woofer, top row:

• Source = Ext.
• Level = low to start?
• Subsoninc = ? Woofer has a range from 20 - 250 Hz, so put it lowest? Sub has a slot-ported enclosure if that matters.
• Set to LPF?
• LPF = 80 Hz?

Yes. Ported subs should use a subsonic filter. Start at the highest setting.


Rear is not used in bridged mode right?
Check the wiring diagram in the owners manual. It uses a combo of front and rear, L/R

I also don't need to run rear pre-amp cables from HU to amp?
Nope

Hope this helps...

[DLW]

Thanks again, very helpful.

So the rear is definitely used in bridged, my oversight even with the manual staring me in the face. I'm guessing the rear gets set the same way as front then, Full, and match the gain settings since rear feeds left side and front feeds right.

Is it worth getting an inexpensive oscilloscope and look for clipping, or just do this by ear with the set volume to 80%, then adjust the level until distortion and back off method?

[BIGglaSS]

I do it by ear. 80% volume is louder than I can handle...

[DLW]

Sounds good, thanks again!

[DLW]

Thanks for your help again BIGglaSS, it's all in and mounted, wired and working now.
This has been educational for sure.

I only have the tweeters to permanently mount as I have them double taped to dash right now. They seem to sound the best to me at that location, and they are more convenient there, as not too many choices anyway. I just hate to make holes in the dash in case something changes later.

[BIGglaSS]

I'm glad it worked out. Did you go bridged, or active? Did you use the 5.25" C5 or the 6.5 RF"?

[DLW]

I went bridged with the passives, simpler for me.
I also used the 6.5 RF's, sound pretty good.
Liked to have used the C5's but I made a mistake in my measurements and they just dropped right through the already made holes from PO in the kick panel where the 6.5's fit like a glove, also $250 cheaper ..
The 8" sub also sounds just about right for my tastes, no need for anything bigger for me.

Pretty happy with it, some more tweaking and should be set. Going to see how well the remote bass knob works and maybe install that if it does a good job.