Under bed fuel tank recommendations

[Missyblue]

Hey again so we made some progress and removed our in cab fuel tank. I have been researching and Trying to figure out the best route for moving it. What I am hoping for is photos/advice/opinions on the matter of what works well and why my priorities/preferences in a perfect world are
1. No/very little frame modification
2. Needs to be adaptable to fuel injection
3. And I'm liking the idea of filling behind the license plate? I have seen some say they did it but cant find my saved post maybe that tank requires more mods to frame.
4. Trying to find a not $400 gas tank haha unless it's way worth it and installs itself 😉
I'm just hoping for advice on what does and doesn't work well I know mustang seems popular but theres so many others I read about just curious.

Any install photos would be great also.

Thank You thank you

[mongocanfly]

Personally I would look hard at boyds...your gonna need pump etc anyway and he has ready to go units.....the behind the plate fill generally isn't a good idea...it would put the fill on the same level as the tank.....it's gonna blow your 400 budget....there are other options...mustang,blazer,,to name a couple

[NorCalGal]

Just a FYI on the mustang tank,1965 tank holds 16 gallons and a 69 holds 21 gallons. The difference is all in the height. A 1969 tank is about 2 inches deeper.

[MiraclePieCo]

1968-69 Camaro. Fits 3100 AD with about 1/4" each side, 20 gallons, rear fill, available in FI configuration. Might be a challenge to run exhaust around.

[e015475]

This is a Camaro tank from a 70 or 71. It is a little narrower than the earlier one. Filler goes through the license plate on the roll pan.



Here it is in the truck. There was a fair amount of fab work to get it in.



Mine is a stock new tank, but one set up for EFI and an in tank pump would save you a lot of trouble if you dont mind spending a few bucks

[Missyblue]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

1968-69 Camaro. Fits 3100 AD with about 1/4" each side, 20 gallons, rear fill, available in FI configuration. Might be a challenge to run exhaust around.

So it appears the exhaust vents right before the tank? Seems like the only option is trhat or before the back tires possibly is that correct?

[Missyblue]

Thanks for the advice. I forgot to mention that I do like the idea if the fuel pump being in the tank not external.

Mongocanfly so did the cars have issues with the fill behind the plate or is it just because of how it would sit in the truck?

Eo14575 So regarding fab work was it mostly for the cutout for the filler or fab for other things too?

Thanks!

[nvrdone]

I went a little different with my tanks - yes tanks !! I used a pair of tanks out of an AD suburban and mounted them under the bed on both sides. I understand the "48 AD's had a tank mounted on the right side under the bed. Anyway, I made a crossover fill pipe so both tanks fill at the same time. then I plumbed the fuel lines into a "T" so fuel draws from both tanks. This gives me about 32 gal capacity. Has worked well for many years.

[dsraven]

before you decide you may want to figure out what you want in the end. that way you don't spend money on stuff that will be replaced with something else later. make a list of your plans and research what will possibly have an affect on other systems. you mentioned an ls swap. does that mean you will possibly want independent front suspension, power rack and pinion steering and disc brakes at some point so you can steer easily and stop all the forward motion? possibly a differential swap for highway gears with rear discs and stabilizer bar? dual exhaust for the new engine? new trans cross member to support the then different configuration? power brake unit with dual system master cylinder? new wiring to support the new power plant?
the reason I ask is because a lot of these things will affect the others. for instance, as already mentioned, the fuel tank behind the diff will affect the exhaust routing due to proximity and space required for the tank. exhaust routed with dumps ahead of the rear bumper will cause oxides of nitrogen and other caustic airbourne agents to be released as well as water/steam. these can cause early rust formation on surfaces that are downstream of the exhaust dumps. there is also the heat issue from radiated heat from the exhaust and, of course, carbon deposits on those surfaces downstream. a new diff with stabilizer bar will possibly have an affect on tank placement, if the frame links are behind the diff, or exhaust placement, if the links are ahead of the diff. a tank with a fill placed low,such as behind the tag plate, will possibly be hard to fill because there is less drop from the filler neck to the actual tank. the original mustang had the filler quite a bit above the tank so filling was easier. some will put the filler in the bed. nothing wrong with that unless you plan to use the bed or have a tonneau cover. a truck with a stock ride height may be a little tougher to fill with an in-bed style filler simply due to the height so you may need to actually get into the bed to reach the filler. a filler in the rear fender will possibly require body work and paint unless you integrate a filler neck style like originally used in the cab-with a rubber insulated filler neck a hole could be drilled through the fender and a rubber grommet style neck holder could be used. the fuel cap would sit proud of the fender though. if you plan to swap the power plant to LS or some other style then you may be also swapping in a new trans cross member and engine mount set up. possibly even a firewall modification. this may also affect the exhaust routing and fuel/brake line routing along the frame as well as frame mounted brake booster placement. steering column clearance issues may dictate steering column and shifter modification, the accelerator linkage, wiring harness and lots of other things. just saying, be deliberate about what you change and why. consider how it will affect other things down the road. ask questions. less money spent on short term use items equals more money left over for flashy wheels, lol.

[b-mac]

^ TRUTH

I'm thinking through my exhaust right now because I put the gas tank in the way.

This is what I put in though:

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd502.htm

And I haven't thought through the sender and pump. I'll fill from the back of the bed.

[Missyblue]

This is all great thank you. And to be honest possibly need to wait as we re just figuring out some things. just trying to find jobs my father and I can do. The mechanic that will help us with the bigger stuff will only help in the winter. So far I only know I am using a tb fuel injection engine and a 400 tranny. The rest is in the air and have to wait for said mechanic. I am debating the mustang ii front because we do want power steering and brakes so it makes sense since they incorporate those elements. I live in the country so not going to drop her to the ground and for rear diff. Per discussion before I am torn between using a Ford 8.8 or 9 and something more like the camaro. My husband says its a travesty and it will be a Frankenstein truck if i start adding ford parts haha

Are any of you able to run exhaust all the way to the back of your truck with your underbed setups to avoid the heat/condensation issues dsraven brought up? If you vented down to the ground or piped a little further out the side of the truck would that help?

[bosco]

I choose to go with a late 60s Mustang tank. 22 gallons and fit right between the frame rails. Fill is in the bed.

[Missyblue]

Originally Posted by bosco

I choose to go with a late 60s Mustang tank. 22 gallons and fit right between the frame rails. Fill is in the bed.

Awesome, I like your fill cap do you mind me asking where you got it and the tank ? The tank looks like a reproduction or is it just painted? But The tank has the 2 openings like my mechanic wanted if I go that route

[bosco]

Originally Posted by Missyblue

Awesome, I like your fill cap do you mind me asking where you got it and the tank ? The tank looks like a reproduction or is it just painted? But The tank has the 2 openings like my mechanic wanted if I go that route

Tank is for a 69-70 Mustang. Tanks Inc. or CJPonyParts has them. They are fuel injection ready. The fill cap can be found at any boat parts supply (i.e. West Marine). CJPonyParts is a kit vs Tanks Inc. is just the tank. It's a new tank.

[dsraven]

is there a reason you will go with tb injection over the LS engine? you have the setup already or are getting a deal? like the small block better? don't want the extra wiring? just curious.
if looking at a MII setup really look at what you are getting for metal thickness, wall thickness on the control arms, bracing etc. some of the cheaper ones are really "get what you pay for". country roads can be hard on stuff.
there is a few bolt in units as well. less money spend on a welder if you don't mind some sweat equity.
if going non o/d trans you will want to pay attention to the gear ratio in the diff and the trans.
that's what I meant earlier about figuring out what the end result will be and working toward that with every modification. otherwise you spend a lot more by getting something installed, using it for a bit, then removing it when the next modification happens. mostly used stuff isn't worth anything unless it's you buying so you spend a lot more buying everything twice.
you might think about buying a complete wreck with the parts you need, stripping it, then selling of whats left. that way you get stuff that was meant to go together.
engine, trans, computer, wiring, fuel pump, p/s pump,alt and all the brackets and pulleys, steering column and shifter etc
just a thought

[Missyblue]

Originally Posted by dsraven

is there a reason you will go with tb injection over the LS engine? you have the setup already or are getting a deal? like the small block better? don't want the extra wiring? just curious.
if looking at a MII setup really look at what you are getting for metal thickness, wall thickness on the control arms, bracing etc. some of the cheaper ones are really "get what you pay for". country roads can be hard on stuff.
there is a few bolt in units as well. less money spend on a welder if you don't mind some sweat equity.
if going non o/d trans you will want to pay attention to the gear ratio in the diff and the trans.
that's what I meant earlier about figuring out what the end result will be and working toward that with every modification. otherwise you spend a lot more by getting something installed, using it for a bit, then removing it when the next modification happens. mostly used stuff isn't worth anything unless it's you buying so you spend a lot more buying everything twice.
you might think about buying a complete wreck with the parts you need, stripping it, then selling of whats left. that way you get stuff that was meant to go together.
engine, trans, computer, wiring, fuel pump, p/s pump,alt and all the brackets and pulleys, steering column and shifter etc
just a thought

Hey again, so it's a long story haha. Mechanic said my best poor man plan was to buy a 1989 to 92 chevy/gmc 350, drive it awhile and make sure everyrhing works and so I would get engine/tranny/ accessories etc. He said it's an easy engine to maintain and less money having to flash the computer and stuff. So I bought one well........turned out the guy was shady and good at hiding stuff and it has some blown head gasket issues etc so now not sure what I will do. I have a 350 block he can rebuild for me with the tb that came with the truck for $1000 he said around here the ls engines I find are pricey for the miles I feel. So is that what you were suggesting? Buying a wrecked something? What would be the something you would look for? Brand/years etc.
And yes that's why I'm here asking all these questions because the more I dig, and the more I learn from you guys, the more questions I have and we don't have a lot of money so I don't want to for example to waste $350 to buy front disk brakes on my truck just to remove them later when I could put that toward a mustang ii that already has it. I did consider other front clips but again our location is kinda secluded and kinda pricey so locating things hasn't proved easy on the camaro or other type options.
I probably should wait for my mechanic and see his abilities and ideas in the winter but I'm wanting to learn and he isn't a full time restorer he's a practical modern/old school guy I trust so you all have more experience than him with our trucks haha
Plus trying to do somethings on our own since my dad is fairly handy hes just too tired /beat up to handle the big stuff anymore. And am just loving the process and the build but maybe losing a few hairs haha

Much appreciated on the time and advice

[Missyblue]

Originally Posted by bosco

Tank is for a 69-70 Mustang. Tanks Inc. or CJPonyParts has them. They are fuel injection ready. The fill cap can be found at any boat parts supply (i.e. West Marine). CJPonyParts is a kit vs Tanks Inc. is just the tank. It's a new tank.

Hey are you using the Ford sending unit from the kit? If so how are you adapting it to the gauges I heard they have different ohms and wouldn't work but I figured there might be an option.
And did you have to mess with the crossmember at all?
Thanks

[konneker143]

What did everyone do about the hole in the cab? Weld a plate over it?

[bosco]

Originally Posted by Missyblue

Hey are you using the Ford sending unit from the kit? If so how are you adapting it to the gauges I heard they have different ohms and wouldn't work but I figured there might be an option.
And did you have to mess with the crossmember at all?
Thanks

I can't say which sending unit we used, but we used Dolphin gauges so we matched the sending unit to the gauge. Once you know which gauge set (fuel gauge) you are using you can find a sending unit with the correct ohms. Cross member (large one) was removed.