I have two c10’s now. Wonder about the air ride on the one I just got

[Slowguy]

I bought a nice longbox a while ago. Built an engine for it, and have it down to the frame. Came across, what I thought was a good deal on a real shortbox. After really inspecting I think I got just a “fair” deal.

The shortbox has a cheap airmaxx air ride on it. All brand new. It still has the original front spindles so the front doesn’t drop as low as the rear. I think drop spindles will take care of that. It also has brand new shocks. The issue is, even with the truck fully raised, it’s the bounciest damn thing I’ve ever ridden in. So is it the cheap air ride, or something else that should be added or otherwise changed to fix the ride quality?

The shocks are the only thing I can think that affect the “bounce”, but I can tell by looking that they are indeed brand new. I don’t think the relocation of the shocks has been done but I don’t know for sure. Does relocation make a huge difference?

[lowrollin70gmc]

Air springs will typically ride the best in the middle of their travel. When you air the truck all the way up, the bags are really stiff and result in the “bouncing” feeling. To get the best ride, you’ll have to experiment with the bag air pressure / ride height to dial in a compromise of good ride and adequate ground clearance. Bagged trucks also need good shocks to control the rebound and compression.

For example: my 70, which sets the frame on the ground when parked, rides the smoothest at 3-4” off the ground. However, I normally roll at 6” (which happens to be half of my 12” of wheel travel) so that I don’t have to worry about uneven pavement or road debris hitting my oil pan. When all the way up (12” off the ground) the truck rides like a tractor and I only go that high to make working on the truck easier.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by lowrollin70gmc

Air springs will typically ride the best in the middle of their travel. When you air the truck all the way up, the bags are really stiff and result in the “bouncing” feeling. To get the best ride, you’ll have to experiment with the bag air pressure / ride height to dial in a compromise of good ride and adequate ground clearance. Bagged trucks also need good shocks to control the rebound and compression.

For example: my 70, which sets the frame on the ground when parked, rides the smoothest at 3-4” off the ground. However, I normally roll at 6” (which happens to be half of my 12” of wheel travel) so that I don’t have to worry about uneven pavement or road debris hitting my oil pan. When all the way up (12” off the ground) the truck rides like a tractor and I only go that high to make working on the truck easier.

Excellent reply there Andrew. This is what I have gathered with all the reading I have done. I am building my first vehicle with air ride that I intend to drive daily , and it has a mid grade system being installed currently, so thanks for the clarity of your reply. I have set my intended ride height at approximately half of the bag travel hoping to have to smoothest ride. Time will tell. I have wanted to try a system out ( go for a ride ) in someone else's truck, but don't have any friends with this setup. All my buds drive stock rides, go figure.

[Slowguy]

Ok. So here’s what I’m thinking;

Get the front drop spindles to try and even out the front and rear. Remember, this is a 67 so it’s drums all the way around. I MUST have power brakes and discs up front so drop spindles will be just part of that.

I don’t think I can do lowering blocks in the rear. If the front is higher than the rear now and I do 2.5 spindles up front and 2” blocks in the rear, it seems I’ll be right back where I am now. Not to mention then I’ll have to figure out something with the bed floor since the rear will hit.

I need to figure out the shocks exactly. I’ll get whatever is the best. I don’t care. Relocate brackets in the rear and some quality shocks for the normal ride height I want. Maybe I’ll need to post some measurements for what will work best?

I’d really like to spend some money on a digital ride systems. Either a computer control that will maintain bag pressure when I achieve the perfect ride height -or- one step further with a height sensor/control system from someone like accuaire.

[Swar]

75-80 psi in the front, 35-40 rear

[Slowguy]

Ok. So I played with it today and sure enough, the correct amount of air makes a huge dif in ride quality. Now I need to decide on an air management system. Accuair e-level looks nice but seems steep at 1300 for a push button memory and level sensors. If that’s the only option, then I don’t have a choice. I really want an automatic ride control with memory Setpoints.

Next I will need to decide which things to part with. First should be the swb converter lwb frame I just did. No idea what it’s worth though.

[HO455]

There's more options out there for control. In addition there is the choice of using air pressure sensing or mechanical postion sensing for the input to whatever controller you decide on. No matter what system you get there will be only one setting that will give you a satisfactory ride, so multiple set points don't bring much value to the system. Unless you have a 50 gallon fuel tank under the frame that you need to compensate for the difference between the tank being full and empty.
Due to the way air bags work compared to springs you need to go with a firmer/stiffer shock than you would with springs no matter what brand of shock you go with.

[Slowguy]

In my searching a while ago I found a post that said these are the recommended shocks.

Front- Monroe 33033
Rear- Monroe 32301

[HO455]

Relocation of the rear shocks will make a difference. The lower you go the bigger the difference. The are several ways to relocate the shocks and most of them will have a different shock length required. I would recommend deciding on your ride height before relocating the shocks and installing the new shocks. I believe the shocks you have listed are for stock applications. And the rears may be too long depending on how you relocate the shocks.

[cornerstone]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

Ok. So I played with it today and sure enough, the correct amount of air makes a huge dif in ride quality.

[Slowguy]

So when the truck is fully lowered in the back the gap from the sidewall of the tire to the inside of the fender is quite a bit different from side to side. Anyone else have that issue or know why that would occur?

[Slowguy]

Pics

[projectking]

Did you buy the bagged ‘67 from Craigslist?

[Slowguy]

Originally Posted by projectking

Did you buy the bagged ‘67 from Craigslist?

I don’t know if it was on cl but I saw it on eBay and he also listed it on fb marketplace. But probably, yes. It’s a yellow 67 shortbed. Time to get to work on it. It’s getting my much better cab to start and much needed mechanical upgrades.
Posted via Mobile Device

[projectking]

Post a pic, the one I’m referring to had the paint sanded partially off.

[Slowguy]

Originally Posted by projectking

Post a pic, the one I’m referring to had the paint sanded partially off.

I'll get a pic, but it's probably the same one. And, yes, he sanded the crap out of it. Not to insult anyone on here as to each his own, but imo, it looks terrible. It doesn't matter though as it's getting a complete paint job. I'm using my green cab from the long box as it is in much better condition. for the moment, I'll probably keep the original green color.

I'll use bits and pieces from the long box and sell the rest. I already shortened the long box frame...so there's that.

I'm doing a complete frame off with this and plan to do everything right. next on the agenda is to

get the frame blasted and cleaned the por 15,
do all the rubber fittings for the suspension and joints,
correct the rear shocks with relocation brackets,
route the wiring and hoses nicely,
new brake lines,
rear mount gas tank with new lines,
mount the lq4 and 4l80e,
mount as much as possible with the air ride to the frame to get it out of the back of the truck,
front drop spindles and disks,
rebuild the rear drums.

I think that's enough to get me moving in the right direction.

[projectking]

Thats the one! I’m a sandblaster by trade if you need anything PM me you’re contact info. I’m also interested in the yellow cab if it’s better than mine.

BTW are you actually in Chicago or is it the suburbs?

Thanks, Jon.

[HO455]

Originally Posted by Slowguy

So when the truck is fully lowered in the back the gap from the sidewall of the tire to the inside of the fender is quite a bit different from side to side. Anyone else have that issue or know why that would occur?

The shifting of the rear end to one side is most likely being caused by the Panhard bar (also called a track bar). When the truck gets lowered the bar changes its angle from the factory position and pushes the rear end to one side. Compare the bar's angle when fully aired up and fully dropped to see what I mean. The cure is an adjustable bar set for your ride height. There are several on the market and lots of threads on this subject. Although another cause could be your rear wheels have different offsets/back spacing. Not a common issue but possible.

[Slowguy]

Can’t find the reply right now but I was told I would most likely want to use drop spindles up front and blocks in the rear. Right now, with just air bags and no spindles up front, the truck looks to be a few inches high in the front. The rear slammed will tuck the tire in the fender a couple of inches. Up front it’s about even with the fender.

If I do 2.5”drop spindles up front and 2” blocks in the rear, wouldn’t that essentially give the same exact parking (slammed) stance offset from front to rear as now? It would be nice to have the front to rear (fully lowered) stance even.

This is just s guess but I’m thinking of leaving the rear just as it is (no lowering blocks) and add the 2.5 drop spindles up front. I’ll also add AccuAir e-level for seemless driving adjustments and parking height.