Slammed '87.. Layin rocker...

[N2TRUX]

Since most of that other thread- Has ne1 used a two link rather than 4? - was in deep discussion about the rear suspension, I alomst neglected to discuss the front. You stated

I am at 12" now, and need 3" to lay rocker, so that's why i need the (arguemental) 2 link, or 4 link......

The rear is not a problem to get really low on our trucks. As we have discussed, there are quit a few ways to go about it. The front is a bit harder.

Once you get to a certain point, the front becomes the limiting factor in laying rocker. My 82 Blazer will lay the crossmember on the ground, but it still about 3-4" from laying rocker.

To get there from here, you will need to get the front lower. That means a crossmember notch, or modded A-arms or ???. Just like the rear, there are quit a few ways to go up front.

What's you plan there?

[bagged78]

When I did the mesuring on my 75 blazer, with the frame touching down thier Would still be about an inch or less to lay rocker.. I haven't done the x-member yet. Just ran a flat piece of steel all the wayy across both frame rails, and measured the distance to the rocker from the steel, just to give an idea... That was just on my Blazer, others, Trucka, and such may be different..

[Slammed '87]

Hey man sorry, just saw this thread now. Yes i am planning on doing a 2" front x-member drop. As of right now i am 3" front and rear, from laying rocker. My a-arms are about an inch off the ground now with fixed suspension, so i figure with a 2" raised x-member notch, and bags i should get the required 3" more drop. As i stated b4 in the other thread, i plan on running 17's with low pro rubber, so this should allow me to lay rocker easily. Even if i don't quite lay rocker i will still be happy as i will be alot lower than most around here :-) There's alot of killer body dropped minis around here, but i don't remember ever seeing a full size dragging around downtown here. to be continued.....

[phantom dually]

Givin the money and time I have in the notch and rear I would probably body drop over the member notch. Its to late now but I could have did a stock floor drop for around $1500. Would this not have got me low enough??

[Slammed '87]

is it Really that much work??? *gets all freaked out* not to make it sound easy, but really???

[phantom dually]

Its not that hard!!??!?!?! If you go 2" it will be alot of clearance issues to deal with. I simply think that a body drop would have been quicker and I could have left the factory geometry alone to a extent.

[Slammed '87]

ok i can understand that, but i don't agree with going with a body drop, if anything would it be easyer to go with a body dropless chassis?

[SCOTI]

If you've got the cash, then a new smooth 'body dropless' chassis would be cool. If your 'financially challenged', a nice stock floor bodydrop eliminates many (many, not all) of the geometry issues encountered from excessively relocating the stock components.

If you go w/a new chassis, can you re-use alot of your old parts or do you then have to buy alot of required 'new' parts? Because if you go w/a body drop, you've already got the suspension. You just have to fab the column to box linkage. Also w/body drops, the welds can be hidden beneath the carpet.

Food for thought.

[Slammed '87]

I know people take the good ol sawsall to brand new trucks all the time, but hey, this is an almost mint '87, they are out there, but don't come around everyday! I am NOT hackin up my '87, i need another method of layin rocker. Plus i don't wanna loose cab room, although there is plenty, and i am a small little boy, i want my cab to remain stock!!! (more room for 12" subs hehe)

[loweredd]

I dont know if I'm understanding what all you crossmember guys had to relocated/fab.

From the looking and looking I've done at mine, the only thing I can see that will pose a problem is the steering column. That is ALREADY a problem now. The a-arm is hitting the column when I'm at 0 psi.

Buying some 3/4 shaft and u-joints and a heim or two looks as though it will stick it. I dont see anything else that looks as though it will hinder smacking the rockers on the pavement.

I also have the tallest tire combo that I know of on here. It's only a 20" wheel, but I have the HUGE tire which puts me at 32" on the front. And rear.



Please clue me in though if there is something I'm overlooking.

[SCOTI]

If you go over 1.5" of crossmember drop you'll start running into clearance issues w/the draglink/tierods hitting the lower control arm u-bolt nuts & the column shaft must be raised to clear the upper control arm.

[loweredd]

I got the column, but I didnt notice to bolts. Good call Scoti.

Which drop method is that though? I am going the CaptKaos route.

[grnddwn]

Hey slammmed I can show you how to do a real simple bodydrop on your truck that won't take more than the weekend. That and we can build you a nice two link setup. All that along with the crossmember notch will get ya layin rocker on 20s

[grnddwn]

You won't even be able to see the bodydrop in the cab.

[Captkaos]

Thanks loweredd. That made my day!

The ONLY issues with my method that you will run into is
a) steering column
b) if you go more than 1.5", you WILL have to use a rack for steering issues, if you don't you will wish you did.

Everything else will be the same as what you had stock.

[loweredd]

Originally posted by Captkaos
Thanks loweredd. That made my day!

The ONLY issues with my method that you will run into is
a) steering column
b) if you go more than 1.5", you WILL have to use a rack for steering issues, if you don't you will wish you did.

Everything else will be the same as what you had stock.

LOL Capt. It looks like yours is sooo much easier, and just plain good looking.

What all isnt going to work with a 2, or more? I dont know if a 2 will even work for me. I think I need 3 at least. I saw your notches for tie rod ends, but that wont move on my frame, will it? Nothing bolts to anything on the crossmember, save for the tie rod ends.

[Captkaos]

If you want something simple (relative) and you know a good welder and you want to retain your factory parts, just Z the frame in the front (cut the front of the frame off at the firewall and move it up, weld reinforcemnt plate to both sides boxing in it and cut the front frame horns off and move them down wed plate to it for reinforcement). Then all you have to do for the rear is use a "super" (as they are called) C notch .

This is the same concept as a body droppless, but in old terms.

[loweredd]

Yeah, that's true. That a bit of work, but I suppose if I insist on running the nice sidewall, I will need to do that. I though also about a Mustang II from www.speedwaymotors.com ......any thoughts?

[Captkaos]

Originally posted by loweredd LOL Capt. It looks like yours is sooo much easier, and just plain good looking.

Thanks! I think so too! (is the room getting smaller, or is my head just swelling?)

Originally posted by loweredd What all isnt going to work with a 2, or more? I saw your notches for tie rod ends, but that wont move on my frame, will it? Nothing bolts to anything on the crossmember, save for the tie rod ends.

Ok, I was doing so good, now ya lost me. I haven't posted pics of tie rod notches, but you will need them. Remember your WHOLE steering section is moving up, and that brings the tie rods up with them.

The pitman arm will cause problems with interference with the u-bolts since you are cutting so much out of it. A rack will be "slimmer" and not have the pitman arm. Of course, if you found a shorter pitman (less drop) you might can get around "some" changes, but you will have to work around the steering pieces.

[loweredd]

I saw steering notches in the crossmember thread, I thought.

I know that spindles will move up, but not the gear box, right? Maybe I'm not thinking about it correctly.

[Captkaos]

Originally posted by loweredd I though also about a Mustang II from www.speedwaymotors.com ......any thoughts?

This setup:


Personaly (this is me speaking only) I don't really like Mustang 2 kits. I really don't like them for the amount listed on that site. If am going to pay for a suspension crossmember, I would swing for a Vette setup. For aesthetics, they look so much better.

[SCOTI]

CaptK, I'm pretty sure the steering gear stays put w/the front frame section, not the crossmember. But, moving the crossmember higher up in relation to the steering gear/frame rails brings the bottom edge of the c-member alot closer to the drag link which of course pivots & requires clearance (that's where I found clearance issues @ the u-bolts & I did mine the same way you did yours).

[Captkaos]

Originally posted by loweredd I know that spindles will move up, but not the gear box, right? Maybe I'm not thinking about it correctly.

Originally posted by SCOTI [B]....moving the crossmember higher up in relation to the steering gear/frame rails brings the bottom edge of the c-member alot closer to the drag link which of course pivots & requires clearance (that's where I found clearance issues @ the u-bolts & I did mine the same way you did yours).[b]

You are correct. THAT (Steering box not moving) is where the problem is. The box DOESN'T move, but everything under it does, that is why you have steering interference issues. I guess I worded that wrong... Sorry about that.

Did you decide that after talking with me at THW SCOTI? Much better idea don't you think? You can't get rid of all the issues, but you can get rid of A LOT!

[SCOTI]

Nope.... @ THW, mine (well, an extra I bought from Shamrock Customs) was already cut up. I did utilize your method vs. just notching as I felt it would render a much cleaner & therefore un-noticable mod. I guess a thank you is needed for the inspiration .......

[loweredd]

I dont remember what you did for u-bolts Capt.