Same new guy with frame questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

tomsC10R · 11-15-2003, 07:07 PM

Well, I went and looked at a 68 frame that's for sale.

It is a shortbox frame. Full suspension intact.

But it's been in Wiscsonsin for quite some time by the looks of it.

The frame looks like it's in fairly good condition except for a few spots. One frame bed mount (where the bed would be attached to) was rusted out. There seemed to be alot of rust inbetween the frame and the rear upper coil spring perches. Grabbed a piece and broke it off. The Control arms (Truck arms) seemed to be spreading apart and it looked like there was something wedged inbetween the two layers of metal (rust??) The rest of the frame looked solid, mainly just surface rust.

So now I have a few more questions for everyone.

1) How hard is it and what is involved in replacing the frame bed mount and the spring perches? Can I buy new ones or do I have to find them? How much are these?

2) How much are new control (truck arms)?

3) Does the crossmember (above the rearend) fit between the frame and the upper spring perches? Maybe that's what was rusted. I guess I should've looked a little closer.

4) What are most people asking for a frame of this type? How much would a totally stock 12 bolt go for? Just curious.

Sorry for the long post.

Thanks again,
Tom

Tx Firefighter · 11-15-2003, 07:58 PM

Is there any way you can travel down south for a frame? Around these parts, a rust free, needs nothing short frame is about 2-300 dollars. It would be worth your drive.

The frame is your truck's backbone, you want a good sturdy one.

tomsC10R · 11-15-2003, 11:26 PM

Tx Firefighter,

Do you know off hand where I'd be able to locate before driving down there to dig through the yards myself?

Like I said, this frame looks strong. Just a little rusty in a couple spots.

Any other opinions?? Is it rare to find 12 bolt rearends for these trucks?

Tom

Tx Firefighter · 11-15-2003, 11:28 PM

I have a 68 model short bed frame, complete roller, for 400 dollars. 3.73 rear end drum brake of course, tires all hold air.

tomsC10R · 11-15-2003, 11:43 PM

Is it a 10 or 12 bolt rear? Wheels and tires icluded? I can't make it down there right now, possibly in the future. Thanks!

Tom

Tx Firefighter · 11-16-2003, 12:04 AM

12 bolt, rolling on 4 tires and wheels

Longhorn Man · 11-16-2003, 01:12 AM

12 bolt was standard equipment. Anything else is *rare*. (1/2 ton truck rear...not 3/4 ton)

cableguy0 · 11-16-2003, 01:22 AM

chevy never put the 10 bolts your thinking of in these trucks. the 10 bolt that came in these trucks was in 3/4 and one tons and was a floating axle whole different animal than the weak little puny ten bolt your thinking of

tomsC10R · 11-16-2003, 02:19 AM

Woops, thanks for the info

What about my other questions...

About replacing those items on the frame. What's the rearend itself worth?

I could probably get everything for $150... So, what do you think?...

Tom

doughby82 · 11-16-2003, 05:04 AM

if i under stand you right,the spring perch cups can be bought for next to nothing,i got some from wes.trailing arms i bought off someone on this board for 50 bucks,and the stuff that looks like its wedged in there IS RUST.the bed mounts if your talking about the front ones that are arched up,im sure someone on the board can cut some off of one of there parts trucks.hope this helps

Huck · 11-16-2003, 10:32 AM

I recently sold a nice 5 bolt short rolling frame for $300. It had NO rust damage at all, was straight and painted with POR15.
The rust out of a bed or cab support is not a big deal but, BUT, the rust that is between the rear supension crossmember where it is rivited to the frame rails IS! That stuff you see between the metal is the metal expanding do to rust. Most of the damage there you can't see as it is hidden by the surface metal. I would be careful with that as if that rust is fairly thick, then the frame rails are weak which can mean a problem waiting to happen. Removing and patching is a job that requires a good welder who knows what he is doing. Got a buddy with a 5bolt, lowered ($400 kit with control arms etc installed), SWB rolling frame that can be had for $400. Not sure on the rust but could find out----.
When you add up the cost of parts, shipping costs, work ---to get that rusted frame solid----you may actually exceed the cost of getting a decent rust free 5 bolt setup. Patience grasshopper----a better one may come along and you will feel better about the rest of the project knowing that you are starting with a solid platform. My .02

tomsC10R · 11-16-2003, 01:52 PM

Doughby & Huck,

Thanks for the replies. I might go back and take a better look at it today keeping in mind what both of you said. It's good to know there are other frames out there available in good condition, it kind of calms some of the excitement I had when I saw this one in the shopper's guide

Thanks,
Tom

11-15-2003, 07:07 PM	#1
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Same new guy with frame questions Well, I went and looked at a 68 frame that's for sale. It is a shortbox frame. Full suspension intact. But it's been in Wiscsonsin for quite some time by the looks of it. The frame looks like it's in fairly good condition except for a few spots. One frame bed mount (where the bed would be attached to) was rusted out. There seemed to be alot of rust inbetween the frame and the rear upper coil spring perches. Grabbed a piece and broke it off. The Control arms (Truck arms) seemed to be spreading apart and it looked like there was something wedged inbetween the two layers of metal (rust??) The rest of the frame looked solid, mainly just surface rust. So now I have a few more questions for everyone. 1) How hard is it and what is involved in replacing the frame bed mount and the spring perches? Can I buy new ones or do I have to find them? How much are these? 2) How much are new control (truck arms)? 3) Does the crossmember (above the rearend) fit between the frame and the upper spring perches? Maybe that's what was rusted. I guess I should've looked a little closer. 4) What are most people asking for a frame of this type? How much would a totally stock 12 bolt go for? Just curious. Sorry for the long post. Thanks again, Tom Last edited by tomsC10R; 11-15-2003 at 07:39 PM.

11-15-2003, 07:58 PM	#2
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	Is there any way you can travel down south for a frame? Around these parts, a rust free, needs nothing short frame is about 2-300 dollars. It would be worth your drive. The frame is your truck's backbone, you want a good sturdy one. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

11-15-2003, 11:28 PM	#4
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	I have a 68 model short bed frame, complete roller, for 400 dollars. 3.73 rear end drum brake of course, tires all hold air. __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

11-16-2003, 12:04 AM	#6
Tx Firefighter Watch out for your cornhole ! Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Azle, Texas Posts: 14,162	12 bolt, rolling on 4 tires and wheels __________________ I'm on the Instagram- @Gearhead_Kevin

11-16-2003, 01:22 AM	#8
cableguy0 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2000 Location: Delta,Pa Posts: 14,948	chevy never put the 10 bolts your thinking of in these trucks. the 10 bolt that came in these trucks was in 3/4 and one tons and was a floating axle whole different animal than the weak little puny ten bolt your thinking of __________________ Owner of North Point Car Care in Dundalk Md. We specialize in custom exhaust on both modern and classic vehicles. We are a full service auto shop from classics to modern vehicles. Feel free to contact me with questions. I will give a 10% discount to any board member.

11-15-2003, 11:26 PM	#3
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Tx Firefighter, Do you know off hand where I'd be able to locate before driving down there to dig through the yards myself? Like I said, this frame looks strong. Just a little rusty in a couple spots. Any other opinions?? Is it rare to find 12 bolt rearends for these trucks? Tom

11-15-2003, 11:43 PM	#5
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Is it a 10 or 12 bolt rear? Wheels and tires icluded? I can't make it down there right now, possibly in the future. Thanks! Tom

11-16-2003, 01:12 AM	#7
Longhorn Man its all about the +6 inches Join Date: Jan 2001 Location: Hilliard Ohio Posts: 2,690	12 bolt was standard equipment. Anything else is rare. (1/2 ton truck rear...not 3/4 ton)

11-16-2003, 02:19 AM	#9
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Woops, thanks for the info What about my other questions... About replacing those items on the frame. What's the rearend itself worth? I could probably get everything for $150... So, what do you think?... Tom

11-16-2003, 05:04 AM	#10
doughby82 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: springfield ill Posts: 836	if i under stand you right,the spring perch cups can be bought for next to nothing,i got some from wes.trailing arms i bought off someone on this board for 50 bucks,and the stuff that looks like its wedged in there IS RUST.the bed mounts if your talking about the front ones that are arched up,im sure someone on the board can cut some off of one of there parts trucks.hope this helps __________________ springfield illinois 2003 custom (harley)built from scratch 68 swb

11-16-2003, 10:32 AM	#11
Huck Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Shelbyville, KY Posts: 3,261	I recently sold a nice 5 bolt short rolling frame for $300. It had NO rust damage at all, was straight and painted with POR15. The rust out of a bed or cab support is not a big deal but, BUT, the rust that is between the rear supension crossmember where it is rivited to the frame rails IS! That stuff you see between the metal is the metal expanding do to rust. Most of the damage there you can't see as it is hidden by the surface metal. I would be careful with that as if that rust is fairly thick, then the frame rails are weak which can mean a problem waiting to happen. Removing and patching is a job that requires a good welder who knows what he is doing. Got a buddy with a 5bolt, lowered ($400 kit with control arms etc installed), SWB rolling frame that can be had for $400. Not sure on the rust but could find out----. When you add up the cost of parts, shipping costs, work ---to get that rusted frame solid----you may actually exceed the cost of getting a decent rust free 5 bolt setup. Patience grasshopper----a better one may come along and you will feel better about the rest of the project knowing that you are starting with a solid platform. My .02

11-16-2003, 01:52 PM	#12
tomsC10R Registered User Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Wisconsin Posts: 281	Doughby & Huck, Thanks for the replies. I might go back and take a better look at it today keeping in mind what both of you said. It's good to know there are other frames out there available in good condition, it kind of calms some of the excitement I had when I saw this one in the shopper's guide Thanks, Tom



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