OEM air cleaner size/dimensions for 1983 GMC pickup?

[Caleb1534]

We just got back from a trip to Tennessee. While we were there, we looked at my great-grandfather's 1983 GMC Pickup C1500 Wideside pickup (trim level High Sierra).

One thing I noticed right away it that the truck is missing its air cleaner assembly. I'm hoping that nothing detrimental got down inside the engine through that hole.

I'm guessing that, once we get it back to South Carolina and begin working on it, we may need to partially disassemble the top of the engine and clean it out before attempting to start the engine?

On a different note, does anybody have any idea how to find out the dimensions of the OEM air cleaner?

AutoAnything lists several sizes for its cheapest Edelbrock air cleaner: https://www.autoanything.com/air-fil...lo-air-cleaner

Would this one from Summit Racing

(https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...IaAsfNEALw_wcB)

fit a 1983 GMC Pickup C1500? This truck has a 5.0 L (305 cu. in.) engine and a 4-barrel carburetor if that helps.

[geezer#99]

Those two won’t bolt right on.
Might be too big in diameter and hit the distributor cap. Factory air cleaner had a recess in it so it would fit.
Other thing you need for those 4 barrel types is an adaptor to fit your 2 barrel carb.
Yes, that’s right. You have a 2 barrel. Looks like a Rochester 2GC.
Might be easier to find a stock one.

If you’re worried about something getting inside, just until you try to fire it,just cover the carb with tinfoil. It’ll mould right into place easily.

[Caleb1534]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Those two won’t bolt right on.
Might be too big in diameter and hit the distributor cap. Factory air cleaner had a recess in it so it would fit.
Other thing you need for those 4 barrel types is an adaptor to fit your 2 barrel carb.
Yes, that’s right. You have a 2 barrel. Looks like a Rochester 2GC.
Might be easier to find a stock one.

If you’re worried about something getting inside, just until you try to fire it,just cover the carb with tinfoil. It’ll mould right into place easily.

I checked the VIN using an original 1983 GMC VIN card I found online, and this truck to supposed to come with a 4-barrel carburetor. But you're saying it definitely has a 2-barrel carburetor?

[geezer#99]

Never seen a vin that said what carb you got.
Type of motor though.
And yes it’s a Rochester 2 barrel. A 2 jet or commonly called a 2G.
Pic of one here.
https://quadrajetparts.com/

[Caleb1534]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Never seen a vin that said what carb you got.
Type of motor though.
And yes it’s a Rochester 2 barrel. A 2 jet or commonly called a 2G.
Pic of one here.
https://quadrajetparts.com/

Here's where I found specific information about our 1983 GMC truck's VIN: https://gsi-cs.ext.gm.com/dealerworld/vincards/

[geezer#99]

Maybe your intake/carb or complete motor was changed.
If you look behind the alternator and in front of the head you’ll find a flat pad with some letters and numbers on it. There’ll be a suffix code there. Find that and we can help you narrow it down.
There’s also a casting code behind the drivers side head which will help further. And a casting date at the back too.

And thanks for teaching me something. I didn’t know I could decipher the vin like that!

[Dead Parrot]

Yep, sure looks like a 2 bbl. Guessing the original Q-jet developed a problem and was replaced with something that was available just to get it running.

After looking at your down the carb pic, looks like at least one of the venturi tubes is mostly plugged. Give the carb a good cleaning before attempting to start. While the carb is off, pull the plugs and give the cylinders a good spray with penetrating oil. Then use one of those air compressor spray ends with the rubber tip and blow into the plug holes. If you get piles of mud dobber nest bits, you have your answer on need to pull the intake before starting question.

Assuming the throttle plates stayed closed all the years it sat, shouldn't be too much debris in the intake and cylinders.

[Caleb1534]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Maybe your intake/carb or complete motor was changed.
If you look behind the alternator and in front of the head you’ll find a flat pad with some letters and numbers on it. There’ll be a suffix code there. Find that and we can help you narrow it down.
There’s also a casting code behind the drivers side head which will help further. And a casting date at the back too.

And thanks for teaching me something. I didn’t know I could decipher the vin like that!

Maybe the carburetor was changed. Over 10 years ago, my grandmother gave the truck to Wayne, my aunt's first husband. He changed a lot of things about the truck, including putting the cab on a short wheelbase with a short bed (originally a long wheelbase and long bed), removing parts for the A/C (I believe), switched the 5.0 L V8 to a 5.7 L V8 (he changed it back later) and, apparently, switching from a 4-barrel carb to a 2-barrel carb. After Wayne and my aunt divorced, he signed the truck's title back over to my grandmother. It's been sitting in her yard for about 10 years now. Perhaps the OEM carb messed up. I've been messaging with Wayne on Facebook, asking him questions about the truck. Hopefully, he can answer some of the other questions I have about my great-grandfather's truck.

I'll definitely look for those codes once we can bring the truck from TN to SC.

You're welcome! I just did a Google search for "general motors vin decoder," and the link I sent you was the second result.

[geezer#99]

can you legally get this truck on the road in sc. changed cabs and frames sometimes create night mares. Serial numbers don’t match.
You could just end up with a parts truck.

In case I lose this thread, here’s some info on motors.
http://www.nastyz28.com/decode.html

And one with casting numbers and locations.
https://www.mortec.com/

[LT7A]

Originally Posted by geezer#99

can you legally get this truck on the road in sc. changed cabs and frames sometimes create night mares. Serial numbers don’t match.
You could just end up with a parts truck.

Some very good assistance here but this last bit sounds unduly pessimistic to me. Lots of cab, bed, and frame swaps on this site. If the truck has been registered in its current configuration then it is probably fine. If you have a required inspection in your state then you may have more of an issue but not necessarily. I assume this is what Geez was referring to. In my state you bring in the title from its state of origin and you pay your money and leave with your new plates.

If you have concerns along these lines then post a new thread. This thread's content has moved well beyond its title. I doubt very much that your truck will be relegated to parts status.

Back to the air cleaner: I have an '82 with an intact 305 4 barrel. They came with gigantic air cleaners like the big-block engines, at least my high-output LE9 engine did and I've seen other similar ones. You'll probably need something like this:
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/2-Bar...ase,36140.html

Unless you replace some parts per below. Based on it sitting open like that I would pull the carb off to clean it and if you are hoping to use this engine without a rebuild I would pull the intake manifold and heads and clean everything down to the top of the pistons and then make sure the crank rotates and the pistons move freely. Ask more about that in a new thread if you don't have familiarity. Finally, since you will have the carb and intake off I would replace them with a 4 barrel setup.

Good luck and post some pictures of your truck!