Drop the front to the ground?

[Slowguy]

I know to drop the rear the frame needs pretty good modification along with raising the bed floor, but in the front do I need something other than just 2.5 drop spindles? I want to keep all the stock a arms and front end but I’m assuming you need to buy a bunch of after market stuff for the front suspension to get it to the ground?

[EVRLET]

To get it to lay frame, meaning the frame is on the ground literally, the front crossmember will either need to be modified or changed. My truck lays frame with a PB7 dropmember, 2” spindles and air bags up front.

To some a 4/6” drop is plenty and doesn’t require much. Also this level of drop will not require the bed flood to be raised. You keep the bed in stock form.

If you want to lower your truck, you just have to figure out how low you want to go. The lower it is, the more modifications it’s going to take.

[68 P.O.S.]

x2

If you want to lay frame that's a lot of mods. Porterbuilt is the first company that comes to mind for this, tho there are others. If you just want it lowered, the Early Classic Enterprises 4/6" static drop kit is the one I'd go with. There's plenty of kits out there for this too. You may need a c-notch as well with the static drop, tho my trucks never did.

[Slowguy]

I’m one of those people that changes his mind 10 times before I finally make a commitment. I thought I had it settled but other options keep coming up. Rear frame is already notched. Cheap air bag system was installed but I planned on taking the cheap system and adding good stuff like accuair for control, and plumbing it propoerly and professionally.

I think the rear is low enough when parked but if I could get it even lower (since everything is already apart) now would be the time to do it (before I coat the frame). That said, if a couple more inches to the ground costs $1000 in parts I’ll just have to be happy with the extra 2.5” spindles up front. As it is, without the drop spindles, it looks like it’s popping a wheelie.

The current course if action was to simply add the spindles up front so that it will more closely match the read in “all down” mode.

[Slowguy]

Evrlet - I looked up your crossmemebr and I’d consider that because I’d save time by having all the front a arms and joints ready to go - and I could possibly get a few bucks out of the stock front end?

What else did you need besides spindles to get the front end complete? I’d purchase the spindles with disks with the crossmember at the same time. I’m wondering where this leaves all the steering components? Would I have to toss the stock tie rod and ps gearbox I just purchased?

[YBNORML]

Here is my 72' Blazer. In my opinion this is as low as you can go without major cutting.

Front = 2-1/2" spindles
Bags
PorterBuilt A-arms (purchased for convenience, should be able to get just as low with stock arms)
Front bag cups are taller than needed, I wanted to be able to roll fully aired out.
Tires are 245/35/20 26.8" tall


Rear = Bags
Bolt-in CPP notch
2" blocks.
Dif hits the floor when fully aired out, so I added spacers to stop it.
Tires are 265/35/22 29.3" tall

[Slowguy]

Jason that looks great. I’d be totally happy with that. Now I guess I’ll have to decide to either rebuild all the stock arms for about 400 or add 800 and just assemble the pb stage 2 basic front kit. It says it comes with a sway bar but I don’t see one in their pics. I could take that cost out of that extra 800 as well. That may be the way I’m going now.

Oh, and I didn’t think I needed the rear blocks because it looks like it already touched the bed floor but maybe I’m wrong. I had better add that now as well

[PepperTreeGarage]

This is a 5.5 drop on the front. 2.5 spindles with 3 in. drop springs. This uses all stock parts except the mentioned spindles and springs.

[plastercracker]

i used the search tool here and click this site only. i search (static drop pics) no end of ideas here. i have CPP 2 1/2 drop spindles and 3 inch drop springs from POL,s and 6 inch drop coils in rear from same place. put c-notch in but dont think i needed it. rides very nice and haven't even come close to hitting bottom. and adjustable pan bar to pull rear end back to center. and had to move rubber brake line mounting tabs in front and make new ni copp longer lines. if you dont the stock rubber brake hose is just to short to be safe.

[EVRLET]

The front is the dropmember with PB arms, CPP rack and pinion,, CPP 2” modular spindle. It’s Porterbuilt’s complete extreme dropmember. For brakes, it’s the Kore3 kit with Corvette Z06 calipers. You won’t need the stock steering box.

If you go the route I went, it’s not cheap. People who want to go bags and lay frame is in for a sticker shock. Just to give you an idea, Porterbuilt front and rear extreme dropmember with Accuair e-level, two Viair 480 pumps, 5 gal tank, will easily set you back at least $7k. Add in the big brakes and you’re getting close to $10k. My advice to anyone wanting to go bags is to seriously plan it out. There are ways to save, but that’s something you can decide as you’re planning it out.

[Slowguy]

Originally Posted by YBNORML

Here is my 72' Blazer. In my opinion this is as low as you can go without major cutting.

Front = 2-1/2" spindles
Bags
PorterBuilt A-arms (purchased for convenience, should be able to get just as low with stock arms)
Front bag cups are taller than needed, I wanted to be able to roll fully aired out.
Tires are 245/35/20 26.8" tall


Rear = Bags
Bolt-in CPP notch
2" blocks.
Dif hits the floor when fully aired out, so I added spacers to stop it.
Tires are 265/35/22 29.3" tall

I’d like to mimic your setup. I fully understand the rear setup. I understand almost all of the front. I’ll also get 2.5 drop spindles in addition to the bags already on the truck. If possible I’d like to keep the front stock setup just for budget reasons but I don’t under stand what you mean by “front bag cups are taller”. Does that mean your lower control arms are cupped so you can drive at a lower height while leaving the bags with more air in them for a better ride? I looked up “cupped control arms” and see exactly what it is; they just lower the floor of the control arm? If this is the case I can do that as well but it sure would be nice to find a set of already-cupped lower arms as it looks tedious to do the cutting and welding oneself. I’m not quite confident enough in my welding skills to do it myself on something that seems pretty important to get right.

[Slowguy]

Getting to work. With drop spindles too this should get the front quite a bit lower.

[weq92f]

I inspected a truck once that had these LCA cups. The stance of this particular truck was nice but... those cups hung 3 or so inches below the lowest point of the stock LCA. They were the lowest point of the truck aside from the tires.

I think using the cups is OK as long as it's part of an overall lowering strategy that includes spindles and springs to achieve the ultimate goal. You don't want those cups being the lowest part of your truck.

YMMV

Hth,

-klb

[jimmylow]

I have 72 jimmy , porter built stage 2 up front , but my ccp drop spindles and calipers touch airbag in different ride height lock to lock , what kinda brakes and lines did you use