4l60e issues in 03 burb

[MASTERBrian]

Several days ago I noticed a burnt smell and I have been trying to diagnosis it. Thought either trans or brake as it was only on driver side rear and I just replaced those pads. Fast forward to this past weekend I was heading on a 5 hour road trip and part way in I got code P0894, which says slippage. I cleared it to see if it'd pop back up and it stayed off for several hours then popped up one more time on the drive out. It appeared two or three more times while gone and on way home. Every time the code appeared it was at hwy speeds, BUT it did shift hard after coming off hwy several times. I also recall it shifting really hard a few times the previous weekend, thought maybe a fluke.

The crap part of this is the trans was just rebuilt back in April/May 2017. Warranty was only 12mo...prior to that I had it rebuilt 2-3 years prior. Both different shops. I checked the fluid and I think it looks high, I haven't added AND I know either the trans shop checked it or another shop checked once and it was ok, so curious about that.

I plan to take her to one of my mechanics, I do lots of own stuff but for things I don't like I use this shop. They may recommend going to a trans shop, which I might also do....BUT getting Leary of rebuilds. My guess is a bad solenoid body, because I have a 99 k1500 burb that does a similar hard kick AFTER hwy speeds and I wss told a year or two ago that was it's issue....around town it's fine, so I've let her go as I just use it for lumber yard runs and as a spare. I figured I'd replace the trans when it went out or when my oldest starts driving.

The 03 has been my main driver and it's still a great truck other than these darn transmissions. My understanding is same trans in both? Any chance it's because it might be too full and a flush and filter change might solve? I'm worried if they drop the pan they'll see damage and won't go further without a rebuild. That's where I'm unsure what to do. My neighbor swears he put a factory gm new trans in his 98 Silverado several years c back for around $1500 and got a great warranty, but I'm not seeing that. A salvage yard wants $300 and gives a 90 day warranty. I see summit and jegs also offer a decent deal but are remans.

Ideas? If solenoid, is it feasible to think just replace that and go down road considering out wss rebuild less than two years ago? I'm guessing that was 10-15,000 miles. Also, how much of a bear are these to do without a lift and for probably one man?

My other inclination is to buy a lower mileage 2013 burb and push this one to the backup car and plan on giving to daughter in year when she starts driving in about a year or so and do the trans at that time.

[AussieinNC]

Fluid cannot be over the FULL mark when Hot...otherwise it can cause aeration issues and loss of pressure....

Have truck on level ground, apply handbrake, start engine and allow truck to warm up...have a helper put the brake on, put the truck in drive and then check the fluid level...it should not be over the FULL mark...

Does the fluid smell burnt?

Slippage errors like P0894 pop up when output shaft rotational speed against engine crankshaft rotational speed is outside of a predetermined range...

It will also popup if the lockup convertor clutch is failing....

These transmissions are usually pretty strong, so long as they have been updated with better pressure control systems, clutch packs and band servos....the rate of attrition on the rebuilds tells me that perhaps you might be better served by a different shop.

Re you performing the R&R on your own, on the ground...I have been a GM tech for over 40 years and there is no way I would attempt one of these nowadays...back when I was young a foolish...maybe...but with the trans unit alone weighing some 280 pounds, plus the 4WD unit if equipped...

4 post hoist, trans jack, nice level concrete floor...is the way to go...

Hope my thoughts help you out

[MASTERBrian]

Took it to a transmission shop, he looked at code and said most likely the valve body/solenoid? and that most of the time it doesn't affect the torque converter and that he'd know more once he dropped the pan. Well, it went in today and he said whomever rebuilt the valve assembly screwed it up and it was allowing fluid to go right through. Hope I'm saying that correctly. He didn't see any signs of the fluid being burnt or the torque converter being messed up so he put in a good used assembly, not sure why not new, but said it'd be good and if any more codes bring it back. I'm guessing it's an updated assembly because he had mentioned that previous.

I drive around town and some hwy and no issues, so $370 and it appears I'm good again. Also gives me hope on my 99 that the repair will be the same.

[AussieinNC]

Glad you got it figured out and you found a good shop....

and he didnt try and rip you off...

Tell all your friends about the shop and the good service...

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by AussieinNC

Glad you got it figured out and you found a good shop....

and he didnt try and rip you off...

Tell all your friends about the shop and the good service...

Most definitely!!!

[rotten67]

Just went through the same thing but lost 3rd and 4rth gear before I could do the fix on the valve body. Got a reman from GM for 1800 works great

[MASTERBrian]

Originally Posted by rotten67

Just went through the same thing but lost 3rd and 4rth gear before I could do the fix on the valve body. Got a reman from GM for 1800 works great

That's stinks. Glad the reman works good though! The 03 got pushed back to a backup vehicle and likely or 13yr olds ride when she starts driving in year or so. Picked up a lower mileage 2012 Yukon xl Denali for my new daily. We like road trips and tired of small issues....